Advises for climbers visiting Mizugaki (No1 trad crag in Japan)
Rope
Bring two rope. Most people bring 50m double rope.
Japanese most routes are created when regular rope length was 40m so longest pitch in a multipitch route, often 35m.
Food
There is Nana's, the only supermarket in the neighborhood and every climber goes there to shop the food, so it is kind of like, you go here to meet your friend.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/dAFekvSvG2ydAEpJ6
Climbing shop
In the next to Nana's, there is a climbing shop Rock Roof and they will know all the beta that you need to know.
Climbing Gym
The best and most renown climbing gym in the neighborhood is, Pirania, in Yamanashi. It's a small local gym but Tokio Muroi is working there who wrote "Kurohon" in bouldering, he is not a trad climber but he knows everything visiting climber needs to know.
Climbing Guide
Yusuke Sato is the most reliable, knowledgeable guide in the neighborhood but he may be out of town... for his own climbing trip.
Freeclimbing Instructor's association
If Yusuke is not available, then make an inquiry to this place, for alternative guide. the Guide may be living in Tokyo or Nagano, not Yamanashi...
https://climbing-instructor.jp/
Guideless?
Yes, you can. It is not difficult to get to a camp site "Syokujyusai park". Approach to the Toichimen iwa is easy, it is the same as hiker's trail and if you miss it, you go simply toward the summit of Mr.Mizugaki. Oozura and Kozura, I don't know but there are lot of subtle climbers trails there and I think you need to get used to it.
I have climbed there several short routes and one multipitch... there are so countless routes there...
The photo is one that I am climbing, my first onsite on 5.8 crack.
Rental Car
If you rent the car in Narita air port, driving is so long and tough.
Locals will come to Nirasaki JR station(most close) or Kofu station(the nearest city), then rent a car.
Toyota
https://rent.toyota.co.jp/sp/shop/detail.aspx?rCode=63901&eCode=011
NicoNico
https://www.2525r.com/yamanashi/nirasaki/store-01145-002.html
Short Trip
You can go to Yatsugatake mountains for a long nice mountain climb in your rest day. Also, Tokyo is a great city to have a sightseeing.. I stayed in hotel owl last month in Uguisu dani. Nearest city is Kofu city and they have sightseeing spots like Shingen Jinjya and others.