I have gone to Jyogasaki for the first time in my life!
初めて城ケ崎へ！ ここは吉田さんのマーズがある場所・・・城ケ崎は日本ではフリークライミングの発祥の地とされています。
I wanted to go there because of Yoshida san... Yoshida san had a very famous route called Mars(5.14a).
He passed away shortly after I met him and did his belay... I was a student of his climbing school and I was a beginner of the trad climbing, crack.
So I wanted to get close to where a legendary climber had started his climbing history...
でも、上級者の岩場っぽくて…いけないでいましたが、初めて行く機会をもらってうれしかったです。
Jyogasaki is know as the first place where free climbing in Japan had done.
■ The long drive
So we headed off to the south, to Jyogasaki, where 170km south of Kofu. where we live. Took us 4 hours to get there, partly because I did not know the road well. But that was OK since this time I had a nice company, a female climber friend Ali.
The long drive has gone while we're finding out we have so much in common.
I had just ice climbed a few days ago and now in the 170km south, it was soooo warm. The crag was only a short distance walk and it was by the Ocean! Wow!
ただ伊豆方面の岩場は、甲府からとても遠くて、運転が大変。相棒がいるといいです。ホントは四人がいいんだけど・・・。今回は二人。Jetプログラムで日本の学校で、英語を教えているアリちゃん。JETの人は、みな賢い人が多いと思う。クライミングは、才能もあるけど頭をよく使うと思う。
アリはクライミング外岩が初めて。いきなり、城ケ崎～！
I had Ali, a climbing mate and for her it was a first time crag! At JYOGASAKI!! Cool!
■ Onsight
There is a route called "Beginner's crack 5,7" and I did onsight this one. So happy!
But since it was the first one in the morning, I must have been a bit nervous, so I did put my protection too tight so it is almost impossible to remove... and for the worst thing, it was a brand new No.1 camerot, K san has just brought!!
He could be sooo sad if we have to leave it... but thanks to his skillful hand, it did get out... so glad.
We tried other "Baby crack 5.8" and "Sister crack 5.9" and we all enjoyed.
鉄板、ビギナーズクラックへ！結構悪くて、緊張しましたが、なんとかオンサイト！やっぱりクライミング力がゆとりがあると、登るは登れる。ので、クライミング力を上げることが、クライマー１年生には鉄則だ。
が、プロテクションが・・・ １本目の１番をキツキツで１００％閉じた状態で入れてしまい・・・ ダメですねぇ。
２年生及第点ギリギリ… プロテクションの技は磨かないとダメです・・・
■ Sushi and Onsen
On our way back, we went to Onsen(hot spring) and had some Sushi, only paid 810 yen for tummy full.
On our way back it was another 3 hours drive but was OK with a friend who sang with me while a long boring drive.
伊豆はあったかかったのですが、日陰はやっぱり寒いので、１６時には終わりにして、あったまりに温泉へ！
海が見える温泉で良かったです。４００円。
その後は、浜すしで、帰りの運転に備え・・・満腹になって８１０円。
帰りの運転は、３時間、アリとBGMを歌って、楽しく帰りました。
■ まとめ
ビギナーズクラック ５．７
ベビークラック ５．８
シスタークラック ５．９
はま寿司 ８１０円
温泉 ４００円
駐車料金 ５００円
伊豆交通費 ２２０円 帰りは２００円有料道
１７０ｋｍ ×２ ＝３４０ｋｍ １０ｋｍ/L ＠１２０ yen = about 4080yen so per person 2000Yen