Climbing in Japan

Climbing in Fukuoka

Climbing in Japan is not as popular as in Europe or the U.S, of course, since the activity itself is originated from the Western... so be realistic. Expecting the same popularity and market maturity such as convenience of finding a partner, or access information availability and good beta availability in English is UNREALISTIC.

Unrealistic expectation always leads to a lack of appreciation. Eventually it will lead you to getting less.

Don't judge the place based on unrealistic expectation.

No crag is climb‐able without a rope and draws. If you don't bring your's,  probably it is a natural consequence that you have no chance of climbing the crag in any places but not just in Japan.

How to get a Japanese Crag information

”Nihon 100 iwaba" series list more than 100 crags in Japan. It lists topo and the beta. It is available, free on the internet here.(you must have an account.)

https://www.climbing-net.com/

It is NOT translated in English but please do not complain. Because this is Japan. Expecting everything in English is a sort of too much expectation and also has arrogance in it. You can always use google translation and also, remember having a sort of language barrier is normal of travelers, also it is the part of fun. Don't make it the reason that you have not enough fun... it is just you are not capable and resourceful enough to do what you want in a foreign country. It is your lack of capability not the country's.

How to Find a Climbing Partner

I wonder if there is so many crags that you can get a partner so easily? I don't know about the world but I don't think there is one in Japan that you can just show up and find a partner.

It takes a long time to find a partner also build a partnership, that is the part of the game.  So also here, finding a partner so easily by just visiting a crag is too high expectation, also expecting the person to speak English, rent you a rope, and gear, and drive you, also suggest you to which route to climb, and give you a top rope is too much of asking. It is more like GUIDED TOUR than a climber tieing up a knot to enjoy a day's climbing.

Gear and a Climber

Shoes only ---> Just enough to climb in Indoor Gym
Shoes, harness ---> Just enough to climb in commercial Indoor gym who rents you a rope.  This type of person should employ a guide to go outdoor climbing since he/she is not ready for outdoor lead climbing and anchor work. Top-rope is the best choice for this person.

Shoes, harness, rope, draws --->  sport crags

Shoes, harness, rope, draws, cams ---> trad

Outdoor climbers and Indoor climbers has a huge difference in knowledge and required experience,  and indoor climbers within a few year experience has so much that he/she does not know yet, can NOT pick up that ignorance by himself/herself.  It is normal that an ignorant does not know one's ignorance....

For example, belay weight difference. A large climber is harder to get a belayer since it is more dangerous for a belayer to get injured when belaying... you can NOT ask anyone to accept being injured by your enjoying the climb. The safety has to come first, then pleasure. Not vice versus. Especially, the partner's safety has to come first than your pleasure. No one will be happy to have a climber who put his own happiness first for the cost of the other's risk of injury.

So people will watch you what kind of a climber you are by the gear you have.  You are supposed to have, all the equipment for your own safety including anchor gear, PAS and slings, your draws, otherwise you will be seen as an immature climber and people may not tell you where to climb the crag, for your own sake.

So, when people do not take you to crags even though you are in the gym, climbing a lead wall so well. There might be a reason. You got to think what lack of you...

Being an independent and responsible climber is a minimum requirement in the crag, no matter where. 

Being able to climb without your own rope and gear,  also not your own ride, is NOT A RIGHT, it is A PRIVILEGE given by local hospitality and generosity!

I guess this doesn't matter Japan, nor the U.S., anywhere in the world.

So my conclusion is bring your rope and draws at least, otherwise probably noone will drive you up to the crag. International driving licence is a plus.

Fukuoka's Commercial Climbing walls

Lead climbing Gym
https://ameblo.jp/lead0106/

The only lead wall in commercial gym in Fukuoka. Rope rental.

Climbing walls

There is a climbing wall in sports facility next to Fukuoka Airport.
https://www.jalan.net/kankou/spt_guide000000179924/

Also, we have a climbing wall in Dazaifu.
https://www.city.chikushino.fukuoka.jp/kyouikubu/shogai-gakushuka/seishounen/tatuiwashizennoie/h31tatsuiwa_sportsclimbing_ippan.html

Fukuoka Crag information

K1Hyutte
http://k1hut.yuki-mura.net/index.html

Fukuoka's crag
http://kokuryoukai.sakura.ne.jp/2-4.html

Old information but Useful
https://www.fukuoka-now.com/en/climbing-in-fukuoka-guide/

Climbing Guide Mr. Edamura
https://lightfootwork.wixsite.com/edamura

Very nice climbing guide. It is very difficult to become a climbing guide in Japan. You need at least 5 onsights of 5.12.  This is not RP, onsight.

And it is only 8000 yen a day. He will give you a pick up and ride if it is not a long distance like Fukuoka to Hyugami.