On ageing climbers
https://www.summit-guide.com/summit/?page_id=20
This is the guide who had the accidents, he was 66. International climbing guide. The cause was loose rock. (Uncertain yet but...)
I was trained in Nagano in Sougou center alpine school, and where I was, Yamanashi were a climbing mecca in Japan, so there were a lot of "great climbers" like Yusuke Sato and Tokio Muroi and ofcouse Yuji Hirayama. I was a belayer of Yoshida, who climbed the world's first 5.14a crack in 1987 prior to Lin, but he put 13d so it is not on the record...and also "famous" guides... like this person.
When I came to Fukuoka climbing, I met Mr.Yonezawa, I felt honored to meet him.
I always respect great climb.
However, I felt age is the main risk factor and he was loosing his skills... he is the developer of Aburayamakawa , Miharahashi, etc... the suburb crags in Fukuoka. Also my neighbor. Kyusyu's the most renown climber.
Mr.Yonezawa was my 3rd mentor. He was going for his mid 70s.
I felt I was his insurance than he is my insurance so I stopped climbing with him... he was sometimes mentally confused.
More over, he overlooked my injury... and took me 2 days before I see a doctor, as a result this is taking so much longer to recover. I can not go with someone if going with that someone is more riskier than going alone.
Most climbers care for each other, watch each other. It's a good habit.
But as you age, you will loose mental power, you attention span gets shorter and you will not notice...take it for granted... even a greatest climber can not beat the age.
We are all same, we are human.
So what partner should do is always asking me, questioning me, and double checking on me, I don't think it is rude.
It is the opposite, I appreciate your support, that is the kind of support I need from the partner.
On male ignorance
Also, men does have a hard time understanding women.
I am much vulnerable than you. Accidents and injuries has more impact on me. Takes more time to heal. My body can not take the same impact force your body can accept. I need you to understand.
If a tall 2.3m man said this is easy, since there is a jag at 2.3m high, and you can not grab it, you will never consider it is your incapability, but when it comet to woman, you will say so. And you will bring up Lin, or a kid that comes high grade even your self can not beat.
On too much competition
Here in Kyusyu, climbers are a way too much eager to earn credit on how strong he is.. "I can climb 5.13, see how great I am! " is the main thing for them. As a result, people are seeking easy 5.11 or easy 5.12 or easy 5.13 even... It is ok with a young man under 18... because everyone has a time like that.
But how long are you going to keep doing it?
In Yamanashi, no one was competing like in Kyusu, because we got so many "too great to be human" climbers.
Yusuke can free solo 5.12 and we met all the time in the gym, Tokio climb V9 high boulder without mat, Yuji you know him..., so no regular citizen climber were competing each other in the low grade like 5.10 or 5.11... that's nonsense.
My point is
"everyone needs to be watched each other, cared for each other " ,
"no competition on how bold you are".
