2022/04/20

Difference between Indoor Gym and Outdoor Crag

Her is the difference. If there is any more to add, let me know. 


Indoor GymOutdoor Crag
Grading credibilitytrustworthy 5.9 could be 5.10c 
order of grademeant to be honesthard to know if 5.8 is truly 5.8
easy one can be difficult to someone, vise versus.
who puts grade?Professionalanybody can FA
Bolt distanceEvery 1 m5 bolts for 15m, sometimes 1 bolts in 50m
Bolt strengh25Kndepends on many thing, how old, bolt type, who puts it....?
Bolt maintenancedone by gym40 years outside in rain and shine, perhaps snow, never able to tell
Who's responsible?The gymYou
fallen objectnevernorm. any small animal can make fallen rock
Holds are...attached firmly so it won't come apartcome apart by nature
shape of the wall a lot of times overhangslab, face, overhang, wide, crack so many
your belongings stay in a rocker in the gymshould stay where there is no fallen rock
belaylet it fallminimum slack & soft catch
airconditioned too heated or too cold
sunis not the problemis a big problem
bugsnonea lot 
weatheris not the problemis a big problem
route findingfollow the rad onesyou find it by yourself

1)Never fall before you take 3 pins
2)Don't pull off a climber from a wall
3)practice how to use the belay station and anchors before you go to a crag
4)Belay is within 1m from the wall, never too far
5)Don't speak while you are belaying,  the distraction means you are not attentive. 
6)Belay with thinking of what will happen if a climber fall now all the time...
7)Do your homework with bolting in that specific crag
8)Do not trust old piton and bolts in the mountain
9)Prepare for failure and accidents, before going.
10)5.9 could be 5.10c, be prepared.
11)Sport route(=bolt route) can be runnout, without saying R.
12)Who made the problem? Do your research. or develop your eyes for it.
13)Crag made after 2000 are relatively safe. 
14)2 grade below should be climbed in multi-pitches. naver fall. can be fatal.
15)Check wire.
16)  Rappel and prusik is a must.
17)Be picky on your belayer.