2022/03/19

Avoid Experienced climber!

Why I write a hug amount

 I am known as a climber who writes a huge amount. 

My major first depression

I used to write a lot....almost all day and everyday... which is this blog's original title..., ...it was when my first depression attack came when I was 16.  Then,  no-one around me understood my situation. I was in a high school where a 100% student goes to a university, they were the kids of doctors and lawyers ... but my mom was a single mom with 3kids and I was the oldest.  My mom of course had financial problems. So I felt no way out. 

Seeking a social help, I counseled to my school counselor and had tried to change the school so I will have a occupation as soon as I graduated but this attempt of asking help made things worse... school did not allow me to change the school because I was in the best school in the are, so I was even more trapped. Without money, how are you supposed to proceed to upper education? 

It was the hardest time of my life... then I was writing a huge amount of sentences trying to explain everything away... so I will wash my pain away... it was the only thing I can do, to not to accuse my mom nor a life...  Life sucked at the begging of my life.

So this is what is happening to me.  Writing in this blog is how much I was hurt. Wring is how sad I was. If I do not express how do you understand? 

My climbing crisis 

So as you see, my life was not sweet like average people...even before I became an adult, I had solve more than average adult can solve.  In retrospect, the same thing happened in my climbing.

Even before I became fully prepared climber, I had to manage the difficult situation such as bad beley and ignorance. 

I was scared in Kyusyu since no one seemed to have a proper understanding on free climbing. It appeared as a concern... in the begging. Now it is confirmed as right.

 People in Kyusyu does not have a proper understanding on "today's free climbing" what they've got is 40-year-old-not-updated-understanding.

I went to a most prestigious alpine club in Kyusyu, since I wanted to have a ice climbing mates and as a result I got this photo by an old developer climber who is so proud(i.e. seemed know things).

 


This photo was actually sent by him so he perhaps assumed this is doing right or total ignorant, or he assumed I am the ignorant one so I will not know how bad this was. 

As you can see, this photo shows two climbers. I was on top and leading. Why do I see another climber? Because he was belaying two of us at once. I have never heard of such belay. 

Also I should mention this is my first time climb with this belayer and the guy in the blue jacket was a total stranger to me. Usually climbers DO NOT climb multipitch at the first time rope together.  

Not just this, I had incidents one after another, that suggest 

 MOST EXPERIENCED CLIMBERS IN KYUSYU IS THE MOST DENGIOURS

like, giving a lead climber a belay which belay device is attached to a tree... or sitting on a rock while I lead, or forcing me to lead when I don't want. All of those are life threatening. 

This is the bolts in Kyusyu... 


It is called "cut anchor". This type of bolt was used a lot in 40 years ago. No one uses in Tokyo and around, including Yamanashi where I learned climbing, so I have never seem this before I came to Kyusyu... the worst news was Kyusyu's developers are still using these, since it is cheap. The strengths is not enough, 5-15 kn at max at best condition, so it is barely the same as cams... a normal size No1 Camelot properly set, provides 15kN.  

There are tons of uniquely set, hand made anchors and belay station. So easy-peesy falls like you do in an artificial wall, are no-no. 


Artificial walls are not safe if all the belay you can get is this type... I see a way too often in Kyusyu.  But my climbers friends say they see this often in Tokyo too. 

My point is the advice of 

GO SEEKING EXPERIENCED CLIMBER is WRONG!

They are the source of malpractice! I have seen not 1 climber who claimed "EXPERIENCED" doing a right thing in my entire Kyusyu climbing life. 

Better advice is "AVOID" them! Do not be deceived by what they say, Go seek safe climbing with someone from Japan Free Climbing Instructor Association

In climbing you can get killed, it is not a joke.