Stefan is a German guest from Couchsurf.com and I took him to Kyugami crag. Just to test the water in international climbing in Japan.
I want Japanese Crags to be more international so it becomes more safety oriented.
Right now at the moment, the Japanese crags are a way too dangerous, especially for the climbers who climbs 5.7 to 5.10a (it is called "under 9 climbers" here), and it is a beginners grade.
So it is the bottle neck for everyone to spend his/her beginner time safely without a death or injury.
I realized this is only particularly Japanese, by going to Laos. I was surprised the bolts are so many. Here in Japan, I hardly ever use more than 5 to 6 quick draws but in Laos, I have to bring usually 10 to 20 draws. It is not just Japanese routes are shorter, it is more run out. Especially in the beginning.
I had so much fun in Laos that made me realized it is not me, it is the crag that is wrong.
In Japan, if you are not a death wisher, you tend to be kicked out of climber's network.
The world is not that way at all. In Laos or in Taiwan, the climbers just climb what seem fun, that's all. They don't enjoy risking one's life to the climb.
Which, I think, young Japanese people agree... the more and more young people find climbing as a leisure, so that means it has to be safe.
I do like adventures but I don't agree for death wishing... I think climbing is not just a sport, but I think it is not worthwhile doing if you have to put your life in danger, for someone else's ego.
Run-out means the risk of climbing is same as free-soloing so I don't think, run-out is a cool things, it just seem immature and childish. I think responsible climbing is the key word.
You got to be responsible about protecting your own life, and if so, run out in 5.7 means, free soloing 5.7, which usually requires 5.10b climbing skills.
so in Japan, unless you are a 5.10b climber, you should not try to climb 5.7 routes since the protection does not really protect you.
He is top-roping it and I put the rope up.
After this climb, we went to Ukiha and Hjijikata city to see fire fly.
It was a long drive.
But it was a first day I actually did my international climb in Japan for the fist time, which I wish to spread around, all over Japan. Thanks a lot, Stephan!!
A lot of Japanese people are travelling around Japan with a car and free camping.
In general, you can not camp but often it is OK to camp at night without being seen. So it is a matter of common sense.
We have Michino Eki (a road station) which is 24 hour open with toilet, so there are many people sleeping inside a car. But camping is rare. Some Michino Eki come with hot spring and restaurant and shops.
Commercial camping site is very expensive such as 5000 yen, so no one really uses. If I will camp, I would go for up to 1000 yen or less. Otherwise, I will look for cheaper option.
Climbers know usually where to stay free or cheaply, but only for climbing, we don't know much about sight seeing...since we are not so interested, so we just go wherever we can just see.
Rental car
The rental car is about same as in the U.S and the highway is not free, gas is about 140 yen /L.
I paid 30000 yen for gas and toll from Fukuoka to Nagano last year. One way, one night stay, driving two days full time.
This is so expensive for a one person to travel, since I can fly from Fukuoka to Osaka by Jet star under 5000 yen. Or using Shinkansen, about 15000yen. Using night bus 3900 yen.
So road trip can be only justified if you sleep for free. Road trip camp suggestions
We have...
1147 Michi no Eki(road station)
911 Service Station (high way rest)
370 Parking lot that lets you stay
127 You yu park( hot spring, 2000 yen)
110 RV park
These are basically assuming you are sleeping in the car. So if you want to put tent outside the car, you need to look into each page to see if it allow you to do it.
This is a option for fewer number of people, like travelling one or two. Japanese hosts are not many, 5000 hosts. Japanese housing situation are not so good so you can not expect city people to offer you a room where a family can stay, but in the countryside, you might find a host with large room.
One of my English speaking friend asked me how to go and climb in Mizugaki.
Mizugaki has been a hot crag last couple of years since newly published Topo book, and it is THE crack climbing and it's super cool! Crack are everywhere in Mizugaki.
BUT, it is only for the expert people who are very used to crack climbing with R in a route, see these routes... perhaps you can use internet translation.
I think Mizugaki will be enjoyable if you feel 5.11 crack is easy. If not, it would be just a pain and scare.
General Information in Japanese Crags
Just yesterday, I was talking with someone who got back home, to Japan from China, and he was a rock climber. Our conversation went like this.
The man: ”you know, climber's age in the roped climbing in Japan is aging.”
Me: "Yeah, I know! It's such a shame that young people won't climb rope, just boulders."
The man: "The roped climb is safer than boulder but people will not understand."
Me: "Yes! I will be scared to climb boulders. but you know, recently I climbed a route that says 5.9 but it required 5.10b kind of move."
The man: "Wow! So that is the famous, "Beginner Killer route!" those are the reason, young people will not climb the roped climbing!"
Me: "Yeah, the grading is all wrong. Especially in countryside, they put easier grade in more difficult route. It's the pride. I went to Mikura crack, and I lead climbed 5.9 routes but it was also a way to difficult.... at least 5.10b normal."
The man: "There are such a few climber who can climb 5.10a in all kinds of climb, slab, crack, face, and wide, also boulder."
Me: "I am climbing with the climbers like that...they are my mentor and senior climbers in my alpine club. I am lucky to have them."
The Man: "It seems that, in past, people climbed 5.10a in every kinds, alright. Not nowadays! Especially for an indoor gym climber like me has a struggle. "
Me: "Yes I know what you mean. "
The man: "So lead climbers are aging. They are mostly elderly people"
Me: "I went to a local alpine club in Kyusyu, famous one. But they are too old and I would have to lead climb for them. And in the crag, which is famous for its runout.... it's because when they are created, the bolt was so difficult to put, took them 30 min minimum to put just 1 bolt. They run-out like 40m."
The man: "Climb or die, it's their policy. They deny safe climb. "safe climb is no climb.""
Me: "Yes. So I quit the club right away! I don't go for it. I am the opposite. I climb for fun."
The man: "Me too. So I can't climb with older people."
Me: "I want to go climb in Laos or Long dong, since I don't need to risk my life for climbing, like in Japan."
The man: "I know what you mean! Risking life got never be the issue outside of Japan."
Me: "yeah..."
So, the problem in Japanese routes are;
1) The grading is not properly done. Often a way too difficult. 2 grade plus is norm.
2) Runout
3) Often easiest is 5.9 (and the 5.9 means 5.10b)
so young people avoid climbing with rope, they go for bouldering.
Japanese climbing routes are created by the cultures of;
1) Climbing is an adventure of death or climb 2) It is no fun if the climbing is safe. No safe climbing is welcome.
Of course, there is a variety of opinions about Japanese climbing culture and I am over simplifying but you will notice... if your first bolt is 3 m high and there is non till 7m high, you will understand, you can not fall until you clip to the second bolt, the first one is just an accessory. Plus, clipping is after you are done with crux. Not BEFORE.
so this is why everyone is such a strong climber here, you got to be a strong climber if you keep climbing in Japan. It is the culture, the route itself speaks.
Older people dislike the safe climbing culture so they don't associate with young climbers.
As a result;
Old climbers : Lead climb, trad climb, multi pitches
Young climbers: Boulders and Indoors
This is what is happening in Japan. I am lucky to have climbed the routes with rope, relatively safely... because I always had someone to introduce me to the crag and taught me proper routes with my skill.
So in Japan, you can not just trust the topo book, you will have to have someone who already know the crag and tell you the proper grading first and safety tips, like the routes with R or X, of course NOT recommended.
Not just that, there will be a hidden information like this one is 5.9 but it includes 5.10b kind of move, but it happens at near the top, so it is pretty safe... or something like that.
Season to come for climbing
Best season is May and October. June is not good season, it is rainy season. August and September is still very hot in Japan.
Winter in Japan is good season for climbing. Since it is more dry.
How you feel about temperature varies by body type. I noticed Caucasian are not strong at heat and better perform in winter. They don't seem to feel cold in winter.
The internet site couch-surf has been turning out to be a better than I thought.
I got 2 climbers inquiries this morning.
My aim here is to create a climbers network so we all can go climbing, visiting each others... so far I am succeeding to create my private network but I like it to be open to public like any climber can visit each others(if they like each others), for a climbing trip.
Separating love and climbing
My husband doesn't climb. So my life is so far, very much about getting a right climbing partner when I climb. I need a good belayer who does not drop me on the ground nor ask me to date him. That is a lot harder than you think.
So someone who already have a non-climber girl friend suits me better. Since 90% of climbers are male climbers so I kind of appreciate the guys in the same shoes, i.e. who's girl friend or a wife does not climb, so we won't risk our relationship for climbing.
I feel so honored to climb the crag which were loved my so many people... it's about becoming a part of the history...
Now, climbing!
This is 60's something old lady climbing for her first time in her life.
It's easy 5.6 but so many beginners find it too difficult.
This is a guy who happens to be here.
Also for his first time...
In Japan, climbing outdoors is very very hard to find opportunity.
Climbing guides 's minimum wage is 30000 yen a day. so if you do guide, you are asked in this case 15000 yen each person.
with out rental gear... I let them use mine.
In other countries, you can try for a reasonable prices, like 50 dollars or so.
In Japan, Climbing guide's licence is too difficult to get plus, what Japanese customer needs is different. I can climb my self so I don't ask a guide to take me to a crag, what I need is a partner, not a guide.
So Japanese climbers won't be a guide's market. Total biginners are marketable but the guides charge a way too much for too little... like this. Both of them just climbed 1, climb using my rope and shoes, and harness. No big deal.
