地域共生型クライミングの研究: Japan Guide

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2020/07/21

English subtitle! Kasagi Rock : a Japanese bouldering movie

Local Film "Kasagi Rock"

This is highly recommend for any climbers outside of Japan to know what's like bouldering in Japan.

Now in Japan as in the other countries, the number of climbing gyms in the big cities are increasing but people are not quite understanding what's like real rock in the nature.

Nevertheless to say, the real rocks are in outdoors... boulders sit in the rivers that's why it's called boulder. Such a basic but with the language came from the west, as well as the activities, people has so many mixed ups...

So the main character of this movie, came to Kasagi's " Rock Festival", thinking he can play a rock'n'roll, but it was actually "bouldering" rock fes.... He was pleaded to climb by locals so he starts climbing, being attracted by a pretty girl in the town at the same time... and eventually, he grows as a person.

Meanwhile, it describes how Japanese country side are like, they are suffering from decrease of population, loss of industry, but with plenty of nature and good neighborhood feeling and also a long history... Kasagi is a mini town in Kyoto, but it describes what's like in Japanese crags are, in real life too.

I highly recommend to anyone who has no idea about what is like climbing and local towns relationships like...

this local movie gives you a very good big picture.

2020/02/17

Odou Kaigan Sea Cliff Crack Climbing

■　Odou Kaigan Sea cliff Crack Climbing 3 days 2 nights

We had gone to Oudou Kaigan Sea Cliff Crack Climbing, 2 night 3 days.

Oudou Kaigan Sea Cliff is in the East edge of Kouchi Prefecture, in Shikoku. I wanted to go this place since it is known for good hand jam crack problem. It's been 2 years since I wanted to go, and this time my dream came true so I was very happy.

We took a car ferry to Yahata Port from Beppu port. Cost was about 16000 yen with a car and two people.

Check the location here. 　大堂海岸　is spelled Odo Kaigan, pronounced Oh-do-woo.

This is local town link. https://www.town.otsuki.kochi.jp/kanko/info/kashiwajima.php

■　Place to stay

We stayed in local hostel, called Hatago. http://hatago.boy.jp/

2500 yen without dinner. Dinner is served with additional 1500 yen.

Also you can stay in a camp for free if you like.

There is a camp site, 　Kashi nishi Camp site. This place is beach site in summer.
https://www.jalan.net/kankou/spt_39424cb3490059782/

It takes 40 min by bus from Sukumo city.

you really need a car to get by in these area. There is a local super market "Michi no eki Otsuki" and for the bathing, there is a hotel Bayleaf Otsuki, let people use their facility for 600 yen per person.

So if you have a car and camping goods, it is pretty comfortable to stay there.

Wifi is avairable at Michino eki Otsuki.

■　Summary

Oudou Kaigan is really a crack climber's crag there is no fixed bolts what's so ever. So if you are unsure what to do without bolts, you 'd be better off not bothering with this crag.

Topo is here:
https://www.climbing-net.com/general/%E5%A4%A7%E5%A0%82%E6%B5%B7%E5%B2%B8/

You need to log on.

Day 1, we had gone to Roof crack area, in Kashiwa jima, and the approach is kind of difficult to explain, you'd better to have someone who has gone this place before.

You need to rappel down and better to leave the rope where it is, just in case. Bring your prusik cord or rope cramp or other devices to ascend in case you are too tired to lead climb. There is a easy 5.8 climb but still you have to lead and need a follow climber to clean up.

The monkey area is one place you can approach with out rappel.

■　Photos

Beautiful water! Tons of fishes!

Kashiwa jima Area is hard to approach.

This is Monkey area. There is a fixed rope.

Dinner at Hatago！Cheaper than Taiwan！

■　Route image 11a roof crack

A long comfortable 5.9 crack

me Climbing 5.8

■　Bolts

This is a cut anchor M10 but no way of knowing its reliability... in the below situations... rappelling is needed to get to the climbing area... so bring your extra rope and cams for anchors.

we had two 60 meters and each of us(2 people) had 2 sets of cams.

There are a lot of trees to make them anchor. So long slings will help.

2020/01/21

デイドリームで初登者

内輪の情報ですので、後々正式に発表があると思いますが、

故吉田和正さんのプロジェクト

デイドリーム

で、

初登者がでたそうです。

グレードは、5.13だったと思いますが、登った人が決めるものですので、発表を待ちますかね。

この課題の横に、フィンガーの練習にちょうどよい課題があるんだよなぁ‥

さらにその横には３Pのマルチ、ジャムジャム84があります。登りに行きたい。

吉田ブログリンク
http://blog.livedoor.jp/hardlucktome/?p=22

2019/10/16

A 1000 year old Katsura Tree in Mitsuse (Seburi mountain nature park)

My first climbing mentor and I used to go in a mountain and find giants, a big tree..., we loved searching. Oh, I miss him so much!

Yamanashi was a rock country, dry, steep mountains were the kind of mountains they have... it was the geometrical center of Japan, so I started climbing but before I start the climbing, I loved woods.

They did have no giants since they were so closed to Edo, old Tokyo, so they have used up all the good big tree a long before Edo became Tokyo.

Now, I am in Kyusyu, so I am a 1000 km away from the mountains of my love, that means also I am away from the big consumer city too, so I am lucky to find the gaiant tree in my neighborhood mountains... yes, the mountains are low, but their green are so thick, and thanks to the distance to the big city, there are a lot of tree are left without being cut down for making temples and shurins.

This Katsura tree is said to be No2 biggest tree in Japan.

Maybe No1 is Yakusugi.

The place was sooo satvic and there was a white cat sitting and guarding the tree?

The sign says it's a 1000 year old, 34 m high, 13.8 m around the tree, and 25 m branches spread.

I wish there is a trail starting from here.

Data:
Location is here.
https://www.google.com/maps/place/%E4%B8%8B%E5%90%88%E7%80%AC%E3%81%AE%E5%A4%A7%E3%82%AB%E3%83%84%E3%83%A9/@33.443338,130.2604497,17z/data=!4m12!1m6!3m5!1s0x3541c7710c7676d9:0x1c5b947cbeadcd8b!2z5LiL5ZCI54Cs44Gu5aSn44Kr44OE44Op!8m2!3d33.443338!4d130.2604497!3m4!1s0x3541c7710c7676d9:0x1c5b947cbeadcd8b!8m2!3d33.443338!4d130.2604497

No1 biggest Katsura Tree in Japan is in Yamagata pref.
http://show-en-kei.com/kyoboku/kb_tohoku/kb_yamagata/kb_yamagata_m_mogami_01.html

600 hundred's years old and, 38 m high, 20m around the tree.

Recommended souvenir.
Japanees tradisional pickles, Tsukemono、648Yen．

Nori of Ariake sea's specialty　540Yen

2019/06/13

General Information on traveling by car in Japan

General Information on traveling in Japan

A lot of Japanese people are travelling around Japan with a car and free camping.

In general, you can not camp but often it is OK to camp at night without being seen. So it is a matter of common sense.

We have Michino Eki (a road station) which is 24 hour open with toilet, so there are many people sleeping inside a car. But camping is rare. Some Michino Eki come with hot spring and restaurant and shops.

Commercial camping site is very expensive such as 5000 yen, so no one really uses. If I will camp, I would go for up to 1000 yen or less. Otherwise, I will look for cheaper option.

Climbers know usually where to stay free or cheaply, but only for climbing, we don't know much about sight seeing...since we are not so interested, so we just go wherever we can just see.

Rental car

The rental car is about same as in the U.S and the highway is not free, gas is about 140 yen /L.

I paid 30000 yen for gas and toll from Fukuoka to Nagano last year. One way, one night stay, driving two days full time.

This is so expensive for a one person to travel, since I can fly from Fukuoka to Osaka by Jet star under 5000 yen. Or using Shinkansen, about 15000yen. Using night bus 3900 yen.

So road trip can be only justified if you sleep for free.

Road trip camp suggestions

We have...

1147 Michi no Eki(road station)
911 Service Station (high way rest)
370 Parking lot that lets you stay
127 You yu park( hot spring, 2000 yen)
110 RV park

according to this site. http://pcam.mobi/

These are basically assuming you are sleeping in the car. So if you want to put tent outside the car, you need to look into each page to see if it allow you to do it.

Free Camp site

https://camp.tabinchuya.com/

This sites lists free camp site in Kyusu. So camping free is possible. you would need a good planning.

https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?fbclid=IwAR3-8inDLWMDI76t3Hie0N4nC_cxwA-AYE-P7e0b09PChrWLpMtQL1HHT7w&mid=1ZBVjXbJKXFgt7AFBFQlSn5Zx3to&ll=43.77915657802342%2C142.4346060202638&z=7

Couch surf

https://www.couchsurfing.com/

This is a option for fewer number of people, like travelling one or two. Japanese hosts are not many, 5000 hosts. Japanese housing situation are not so good so you can not expect city people to offer you a room where a family can stay, but in the countryside, you might find a host with large room.

2019/03/30

Kishira Crack

■ Kishira Crack

We've gone to Kishira Crack in Kagoshima.

It's 5 hour drive from Fukuoka.

This is 5.7 crack, I on-sighted.

I loved 5.9 there.

Kishira has tons of easy cracks which I can practice.

I got injured my leg before I get to the climbs, and I barely climbed 3 climbs.

My calf has teared... I guess I was driving long hours and suddenly I moved...

so sad... It was too painful even to walk.

The parking lot we stayed.

We've gone to a Hot Spring, and got some food for dinner.

We had a Akumaki, Kagoshima's local food.

Recip for Akumaki

Dinner for the night

■Day 2 Tiring drive

We moved to a next crag called Ondake.

Cherry Blossom

Ondake They've got multi pitch.

Kaomondake Mountain across the ocean.

Then moved to Kiraku Hot spring for night.

Japan has Toji tradition. Toji means healing by hot spa.

This is the place we stayed.

Kiraku Onsen

They've got wifi and costed only 2750 yen per night.

There was a free camp site by the beach.

https://www.town.kinko.lg.jp/soshiki/10/1080.html

The power also was available.

The cost was like this:

Gas 8000 yen

Free way 7000 yen x2

a night in Kiraku Onsen 2750 yen

food and drink 3000 yen

2019/03/02

Hiking in Itsuki for flowers and limb stone hunting

Itsuki Village (a remote country side of Japan)
We've gone to Hiking in Itsuki Village in search for a spring flower and a crag.

We need a new crag as a toy for our 74 years old mentor, who has 50 years experience of alpine mountains and his name is known for route development in Yakushima island, he wants a new crag to develop and we want to find it.

My secret dream is to have a new crag for dry-tooling practice, since here in Kyusyu, we have no dry wall to practice... so I was thinking that Limestone rock might be a good choice.

Since I am new to Kyusyu... I don't really know where to start searching from.
I kind of guessed if I go to see the wild flowers in the season, it might be a fun. Because wild flowers usually bloom in rocky mountains.

Combining pleasure of trail walk and a new crag hunting, for flowers and a rock.

Ituski Village is known for its deepness... I mean deep, as it is so "remote". But it took us, only 3 hours drive from Fukuoka to Itsuki Village! Wow! It wasn't too bad.

We shared a car ride so it was about 4000 yen each for 3 people.

We headed for Noke-eboshi Mountain to see Fukujyu-sou flowers... the mountain has 2 trail entrance available, and we took the longer, harder routes.
The first trail entrance. Most of the non-trained hikers choose, 2nd entrance.

Fukujyu-sou is ”Adonis ramosa”... it is a wild flower, bloom only in Spring. It is said spring starter.

We were a bit worried that we were a bit too late for the flowers... but it was OK. We saw more than we expected! Also thanks to the choice of the trail, it was a quiet mountains.

On our way back, we took a Onsen 400 yen for me, anybody over 70, 300yen.(Japan is kind for elderly people)

Stared at 6 am and get back home at 20 pm. Cost was; Gas 4000 yen. Road toll 550 yen, 3300 yen, 3920 yen. Plus we needed some for lunch.

For the rocks we found see the previous page. We did not think Kumamoto prefecture will let us climb the rock but the rock was nice if we can create route.