■ Hyugami with Stefan
Stefan is a German guest from Couchsurf.com and I took him to Kyugami crag. Just to test the water in international climbing in Japan.
I want Japanese Crags to be more international so it becomes more safety oriented.
Right now at the moment, the Japanese crags are a way too dangerous, especially for the climbers who climbs 5.7 to 5.10a (it is called "under 9 climbers" here), and it is a beginners grade.
So it is the bottle neck for everyone to spend his/her beginner time safely without a death or injury.
I realized this is only particularly Japanese, by going to Laos. I was surprised the bolts are so many. Here in Japan, I hardly ever use more than 5 to 6 quick draws but in Laos, I have to bring usually 10 to 20 draws. It is not just Japanese routes are shorter, it is more run out. Especially in the beginning.
I had so much fun in Laos that made me realized it is not me, it is the crag that is wrong.
In Japan, if you are not a death wisher, you tend to be kicked out of climber's network.
The world is not that way at all. In Laos or in Taiwan, the climbers just climb what seem fun, that's all. They don't enjoy risking one's life to the climb.
Which, I think, young Japanese people agree... the more and more young people find climbing as a leisure, so that means it has to be safe.
I do like adventures but I don't agree for death wishing... I think climbing is not just a sport, but I think it is not worthwhile doing if you have to put your life in danger, for someone else's ego.
Run-out means the risk of climbing is same as free-soloing so I don't think, run-out is a cool things, it just seem immature and childish. I think responsible climbing is the key word.
You got to be responsible about protecting your own life, and if so, run out in 5.7 means, free soloing 5.7, which usually requires 5.10b climbing skills.
so in Japan, unless you are a 5.10b climber, you should not try to climb 5.7 routes since the protection does not really protect you.
He is top-roping it and I put the rope up.
After this climb, we went to Ukiha and Hjijikata city to see fire fly.
It was a long drive.
But it was a first day I actually did my international climb in Japan for the fist time, which I wish to spread around, all over Japan.
Thanks a lot, Stephan!!