Expert Area Mizugaki Crack
One of my English speaking friend asked me how to go and climb in Mizugaki.
Mizugaki has been a hot crag last couple of years since newly published Topo book, and it is THE crack climbing and it's super cool! Crack are everywhere in Mizugaki.
BUT, it is only for the expert people who are very used to crack climbing with R in a route, see these routes... perhaps you can use internet translation.
https://micki-pedia.com/mizugaki-18summer.html
I think Mizugaki will be enjoyable if you feel 5.11 crack is easy. If not, it would be just a pain and scare.
General Information in Japanese Crags
Just yesterday, I was talking with someone who got back home, to Japan from China, and he was a rock climber. Our conversation went like this.
The man: ”you know, climber's age in the roped climbing in Japan is aging.”
Me: "Yeah, I know! It's such a shame that young people won't climb rope, just boulders."
The man: "The roped climb is safer than boulder but people will not understand."
Me: "Yes! I will be scared to climb boulders. but you know, recently I climbed a route that says 5.9 but it required 5.10b kind of move."
The man: "Wow! So that is the famous, "Beginner Killer route!" those are the reason, young people will not climb the roped climbing!"
Me: "Yeah, the grading is all wrong. Especially in countryside, they put easier grade in more difficult route. It's the pride. I went to Mikura crack, and I lead climbed 5.9 routes but it was also a way to difficult.... at least 5.10b normal."
The man: "There are such a few climber who can climb 5.10a in all kinds of climb, slab, crack, face, and wide, also boulder."
Me: "I am climbing with the climbers like that...they are my mentor and senior climbers in my alpine club. I am lucky to have them."
The Man: "It seems that, in past, people climbed 5.10a in every kinds, alright. Not nowadays! Especially for an indoor gym climber like me has a struggle. "
Me: "Yes I know what you mean. "
The man: "So lead climbers are aging. They are mostly elderly people"
Me: "I went to a local alpine club in Kyusyu, famous one. But they are too old and I would have to lead climb for them. And in the crag, which is famous for its runout.... it's because when they are created, the bolt was so difficult to put, took them 30 min minimum to put just 1 bolt. They run-out like 40m."
The man: "Climb or die, it's their policy. They deny safe climb. "safe climb is no climb.""
Me: "Yes. So I quit the club right away! I don't go for it. I am the opposite. I climb for fun."
The man: "Me too. So I can't climb with older people."
Me: "I want to go climb in Laos or Long dong, since I don't need to risk my life for climbing, like in Japan."
The man: "I know what you mean! Risking life got never be the issue outside of Japan."
Me: "yeah..."
So, the problem in Japanese routes are;
1) The grading is not properly done. Often a way too difficult. 2 grade plus is norm.
2) Runout
3) Often easiest is 5.9 (and the 5.9 means 5.10b)
so young people avoid climbing with rope, they go for bouldering.
Japanese climbing routes are created by the cultures of;
1) Climbing is an adventure of death or climb
2) It is no fun if the climbing is safe. No safe climbing is welcome.
Of course, there is a variety of opinions about Japanese climbing culture and I am over simplifying but you will notice... if your first bolt is 3 m high and there is non till 7m high, you will understand, you can not fall until you clip to the second bolt, the first one is just an accessory. Plus, clipping is after you are done with crux. Not BEFORE.
so this is why everyone is such a strong climber here, you got to be a strong climber if you keep climbing in Japan. It is the culture, the route itself speaks.
Older people dislike the safe climbing culture so they don't associate with young climbers.
As a result;
Old climbers : Lead climb, trad climb, multi pitches
Young climbers: Boulders and Indoors
This is what is happening in Japan. I am lucky to have climbed the routes with rope, relatively safely... because I always had someone to introduce me to the crag and taught me proper routes with my skill.
So in Japan, you can not just trust the topo book, you will have to have someone who already know the crag and tell you the proper grading first and safety tips, like the routes with R or X, of course NOT recommended.
Not just that, there will be a hidden information like this one is 5.9 but it includes 5.10b kind of move, but it happens at near the top, so it is pretty safe... or something like that.
Season to come for climbing
Best season is May and October.
June is not good season, it is rainy season. August and September is still very hot in Japan.
Winter in Japan is good season for climbing. Since it is more dry.
How you feel about temperature varies by body type. I noticed Caucasian are not strong at heat and better perform in winter. They don't seem to feel cold in winter.