We had gone to Oudou Kaigan Sea Cliff Crack Climbing, 2 night 3 days.
Oudou Kaigan Sea Cliff is in the East edge of Kouchi Prefecture, in Shikoku. I wanted to go this place since it is known for good hand jam crack problem. It's been 2 years since I wanted to go, and this time my dream came true so I was very happy.
We took a car ferry to Yahata Port from Beppu port. Cost was about 16000 yen with a car and two people.
Check the location here. 大堂海岸 is spelled Odo Kaigan, pronounced Oh-do-woo.
This is local town link. https://www.town.otsuki.kochi.jp/kanko/info/kashiwajima.php
This is local town link. https://www.town.otsuki.kochi.jp/kanko/info/kashiwajima.php
■ Place to stay
We stayed in local hostel, called Hatago. http://hatago.boy.jp/
2500 yen without dinner. Dinner is served with additional 1500 yen.
Also you can stay in a camp for free if you like.
There is a camp site, Kashi nishi Camp site. This place is beach site in summer.
https://www.jalan.net/kankou/spt_39424cb3490059782/
It takes 40 min by bus from Sukumo city.
you really need a car to get by in these area. There is a local super market "Michi no eki Otsuki" and for the bathing, there is a hotel Bayleaf Otsuki, let people use their facility for 600 yen per person.
So if you have a car and camping goods, it is pretty comfortable to stay there.
Wifi is avairable at Michino eki Otsuki.
■ Summary
Oudou Kaigan is really a crack climber's crag there is no fixed bolts what's so ever. So if you are unsure what to do without bolts, you 'd be better off not bothering with this crag.
Topo is here:
https://www.climbing-net.com/general/%E5%A4%A7%E5%A0%82%E6%B5%B7%E5%B2%B8/
You need to log on.
Day 1, we had gone to Roof crack area, in Kashiwa jima, and the approach is kind of difficult to explain, you'd better to have someone who has gone this place before.
You need to rappel down and better to leave the rope where it is, just in case. Bring your prusik cord or rope cramp or other devices to ascend in case you are too tired to lead climb. There is a easy 5.8 climb but still you have to lead and need a follow climber to clean up.
The monkey area is one place you can approach with out rappel.
■ Photos
■ Route image 11a roof crack
A long comfortable 5.9 crack
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| me Climbing 5.8 |
■ Bolts
This is a cut anchor M10 but no way of knowing its reliability... in the below situations... rappelling is needed to get to the climbing area... so bring your extra rope and cams for anchors.
we had two 60 meters and each of us(2 people) had 2 sets of cams.
There are a lot of trees to make them anchor. So long slings will help.
