2016/10/04

Kotakuji rock garden

■ Kotakuji for the first time 

I've gone to Kotakuji rock garden for the first time. 

The place in my memories... in 2014 when I was still a beginner.... I used to said "I like to go" but my teacher climber who I was apprenticed to that time, said, "the place is not worth visiting from all the way from your town". 

Now I am in from of the rock, called Benten Rock, I realize it... yes, indeed... this is very easy rock climbing, the grade would be like 5.5 at most. Perhaps grade III. 

I was not with my own climbing mates but with other group this time because I really wanted to know what Kotakuji is like.

So I asked for a belayer, realizing lead climbing is the only way. 

To be honest, this was my first time climbing after the grand fall and riding on ambulance and getting my head stitched 7 stitches. 

This is the case I can justify myself wanting a reliable belayer desperately... but I did NOT. 

I just had lead climbed...  It's OK. Because I never fall with this grade. No matter what. 

There was a elderly guy staring at us, sitting nearby... what was him??? A guard or something? 

Benten Rock


■ The two beginners 

There was two total beginners and other girl and I had happened to teach them how to belay and they were such a good students.  

It was a simple stuff I taught, like "Never let go of the rope from your controlling hand", things so elementary.

Still there are a lot of climbers who can not belay properly... I wonder what's going on in this climbing industry... the belay is the thing it protect your life.

There is no standard? 

■ Crack

There were not much interesting route since it was easy but the crack route was relatively fun to climb.  The large crack so I did not need jamming I only needed lay back. 

Perhaps the grade is 5.9 or 5.8?  

■ cafe 

This is a cafe I dropped by on my way home, they served an excellent ethiopian beans! I have a word on coffee. I always drink specialty. This is my laxually I allow mysefe to have. And this is good for world economy. The coffee farmers should get treated fairly. 

I had been working on free climbing from the beginning of this year and I don't feel much progress myself, but certainly I realized the rock climbing is creating a "new me". I am not the same person I was, in a year ago.