Free school, Natural Farming, Free ranch, Autism, also Ortholemular...also Forestry

Japanese version of Green Climbers Home

I had so much fun in Laos so I dreamed of bringing something similar to Japan;

What was so nice? 

Very ecological... Cows and Goats are eating grass on the same field human climbing, they had very country style living. Cats and dog not to mention.

Peaceful... no one is really on competition, most climbers are not local, so they are on vacation, the local people were on low economically developed so their life is already simple.

 Diverse... men and women, young and old, any race, all are just playmates not a competitors. In Japan, climbers are competing instead of playing. It's a world of male ego.

 Simple life... eat, climb, sleep, then repeat. So simple minded. People, the belayer is like a stream of liver, comes and goes... never still. So no one ask you commitment nor loyalty, all you need is regular friendliness, and the feeling of "we are a part of big family" kind of awareness. When rope is up with a knot, you don't blame the people, you kindly offer to climb and retrieve. It is not a big deal if you have a basic kindness as a human. So everyone is trying to help each other because it is obvious no one wants to have a terrible vacation, it is supposed to be fun, not a punishment.

In Japan, rock climbing... not ice climbing in my case... was no fun at all. People are competing each other when I try to have a fun climb. Most people climb to fulfill their ego, to show off how bold they are. 

So I got disgusted and lost my appetite for climbing. 

I am a short climber of 152cm high, pretty small, smaller than Linn Hill, I think she was 158cm, and in the bolted route, i.e. sport route, how far you can reach is the basic of safety. 

Sport route safety and the reach

Most climber do not understand this,  especially, alpine climbers... because they never do bouldering in outdoor.   

In outdoor boulder, we have something called sit start. Usually sit start is much more difficult than standing start... because suddenly, you can not reach to the big hold, "Gaba" we say in Japanese, in English, it is jag, big steady holds, and in bouldering, or any kind of climbing, the smaller foot holds are harder, of course and the distance to a big good hold, is overcame by either using very small hold on foot or by range, jumping toward the big hold. 

So it is much more dynamic move is involved.

In alpine style, all moves are very static, if you have to take a dynamic move and there are a lot of chance of falling, the advice is not to climb at all, or use aid climb. 

So it is the limitation of old alpine climbers, who has limited experience as well as others. They may have good experience in the mountains, but they don't understand, this;  The lower the starting climbs, the harder it gets.  

Japanese male’s average height is about 170cm and female is 158cm. 

Old free climbing crags are mostly developed by those alpine climber who had zero understanding in boulder sit start, therefore understanding that a shorter person had to take a greater risk, when a good holds are too far away, is hard to understand for them. They just can not understand. 

So as a result of this lack of understanding, the layout of bolts in old crag is only met to the average of 170cm person. 

you are safe if you are one of average of 170 cm tall.

I found out this fact by noticing my climbing mentor does not understand the cam he sat is not at all safe to me, I needed my own setting. 

See this photo. 

This is the cam set of mine who has only 152 cm and a short reach. Notice the first to 3rd cam is much placed lower than this photo.

Whereas... 

This is my climbing mentor's cam set. He is 175cm.

As you can see, I need the first cam at very lower place and the second too, and the 3rd.

My climbing mentor did not understand this, insisting that I should climb lead, with his cam set. (pink point) Insisting that is safer, when actually NOT.

But obviously, his cam setting is NOT safe at all to me for I can NOT reach to clip his cam with the same secure foot hold that he used. 

I need my own cam layout for my security... and he call me "CHICKEN", with his limited knowledge but he does not realize it.

As you can see, this accusation is based on ignorance and the ignorance came from his limitation of experience. He has never done the boulder outdoor nor wanted to try.  

TRAD is safe for a short person

So the reason why I like the trad better than bolted route is for my safety reason. 

I always have this bolt layout problem...it is not safe to me at all... as long as I climb bolted routes in Japan, anywhere done by old climbers. 

So my humble opinion is that all the bolted routes especially 5.9 and 5.10 something (introductory level)should be re-considered by someone new, a lead climbers with good bouldering experience, like Sachi or someone, could be Yuji. 

The fatal accident with runout is happening anywhere in Japan, because for the developer climbers with a big height, like 180cm has no understanding about this. 

It is not they are the greater climbers than shorter climbers...it only their tall height helped them to reach further than others, that's all. Nothing to be proud of, since no effort involved. 

I have seem so many taller climber with a less skill of climbing can climb better grades than me so, the grades in this case does not show any climbing skills.

5.9 for short is not 5.9 

Thus, with this reason, the shorter climbers are usually better climbers always. They need to develop better skills to climb the same grade compared to taller ones.

For example very far layout-ed jags are easy 5.9 for 180 cm climbers but it is so dangerous for 140 cm climber since that climber must jump toward that jag, which is much more chances of falling.

So shorter ones are better risk taker actually.

Hyugami

The Hyugami crag is originally developed as Aid-climbing 's crag. So the ethic of original bolting is; The far, the better. 

So it is norm to see, a way too far bolted routes, and in especially of taller developer's routes. 

The route called Taro, one day I was trying to climb, and my climbing partner stopped it for me, that was one case of very far bolted route. 

After this climb, I stopped climbing in Hyugami, especially the route that is unknown to me.  

It is because I did not have a partner belayer with this understanding. My partner at the time starting to call me chicken when all the reason that he thinks so was that he is tall enough to reach and clip before crux.  I was willing to overcome the hardship I've got but not with a guy who has no respect to me.

The reason of why bolts are there

The sole reason of bolts is to protect. So no more bolts than needed is just a disgrace of climbing. 

Run-out is not protecting any one really, so why don't they free sole instead?  

So if you Kyusyu climbers are really bold as you states, then free solo should have been the way of climbing but it is not so in the reality... so I concluded that they are only trying to LOOK BOLD not truthfully BOLD at all, therefore it does not worth my attention. 

Free school... teaching to kids

So I got disgusted with male dominated, and pretentious culture here in Kyusyu, supported by ignorance, I decided it is worthless of giving my time, I had to find something with true value. 

First I taught kids... and it was fun. There are a lot of free school these days in Japan,   Japanese public education is corrupting because it is more of training to obey, not education. 

Climbing can be a great thing for kids for sure, but you must teach them how to think, otherwise natural tendency is just enjoying fake scare, and ignoring the true braveness. It is easy to go for a easy praise. 

I have witnessed so many cased of wrong teaching result. So it is the climbing education which is wrong. 

The wrong education is done because the coaches are competing each others. It is a thing of generation. Japanese baby boomers does not know anything better than competition. 

Natural Farming

So I got disgusted again in competitiveness of former generation, so I sought for a different world than just competing and flarting( believe or not, they still flart age over 65)

I found the natural farming... it was a long journey... so I don't go any further than this but in short, I got disappointed again. 

 

 

Free ranch

I went for a wwoof, to get skillful about chainsaw work, because I was interested in forestry... of course in crag development, cutting down the trees was a part of job, and I wanted a proper safety education since I knew climbers are using chainsaw without education. 

It was fun to live in a hand made log house and it reminded me of the book I liked as a child "Little house in a big woods".  I was fascinated by the idea of building my own log house and now I am equipped with the skill. 

So if it is ok to cut down the trees and built my own house, I will. 

 

Autism and Orthomolecular medicine

Since I got knee injury, I had to stay in bed for a long time, like two month. 

In that 2 month, I did not wanted to loose my muscle I built but I did. Why? 

I did not have enough protein. I was farming so I had enough veges but not enough meat... so I lost my most of climbing muscles. So sad. 

So I started to study why I lost my muscle and found out that I was taught wrong thing in my diet, like Japanese are vegetarian or such. 

Thanks to the study, I learned about mental illness came from a wrong diet, and these days there are a lot of kids with autism, ADHD, or such... also came from a wrong diet. 

I can think of some incidents with my climbing mentor that he get so easily irritated and short sighted and acted like ADHD... such as I was abandoned in Korea by my mentor, because I refused to climb wide crack that is, stemming was the must, when my knee was so loose, that I could hardly carry my pack...I went there because two other climbers said they won't go if I don't go... so I had to put up with the pain.

I thought he was a kind of a guy who ask where is my meal? when a sick wife is in bed... he was asking me to entertain him when I am in physical pain obviously... I was puzzled then, thinking I was betrayed since I trusted him so much, but it was ADHD or autism, his conception was sickened... perhaps. 

So this is so far what happened to me this 5 years in Kyusyu.  A bad experience. 

My husband could not understand what I was going through since he does not understand climbing and he thinks I am lazy, since I don't hold regular job now, who can work as a yoga teacher with injured leg?  In retrospect, I had been going through such a tough time without a friend nor support. 

No one really see my standing point, no one could really see things from my aspects, since there is no other 152cm female climber with 17kg grab power. But I have  a fluent English, and a lot of dreams of peace and love worlds...I still know everyone will love GCH Japanese version since older people are going there but I know now I am not going to make any sacrifice for that.

I had my good times, also, to be fair... it was great to walk around Korean mountains also, a visit to Taiwan was great, I get to know few Thai climber friends. 

But those are the people I should be friends with, not my fellow climbers in Japan.

                   Green Buddha  I like Green climber, not competitive climber
 

この記事の日本語版　https://allnevery.blogspot.com/2019/08/blog-post_68.html

初心者の方へ：リードのとり方 （一般のボルトルート）

 ■　クライミング初心者のリードの仕方

を解説します。

１）まずルートを選ぶところが肝心です

２）その岩場で最も優しい課題が、初心者向きの登りやすい課題とは限らず、また初心者は課題を見る目も、そもそもついていないので、経験者にお勧めを聞きます。

十分経験がある本物の経験者であれば、落ちても大事に至らない5.9で、頻繁に登られ、ルートがトリッキーでないものを薦めてくるはずです。

３）そのようなアドバイザーがいない場合、ルートはこのように選びます。

　・ボルトがケミカル、もしくはグージョンである
　・まっすぐである
　・１ピン目～３ピンまでに核心がない
　・ランナウトした箇所がない
　・終了点が普通に使えるもの
　・ビレイヤーの立ち位置がややこしくないもの
　・下地がよいもの（石ではなく、土、また傾斜していない）

４）ロープ長さが十分足りる課題を選びます。50ｍシングルなら2２，３ｍまで。25ｍだとすっぽ抜けのリスクが高いです。すっぽ抜け防止のノットを結び、自分のハーネスにエイトノットをしたら、パートナーチェックをします。

５）まず、よくオブザベします。ヌンチャクを数えて、中間支点+２個を持ちます。2個は終了点用です。そのほかの緊急グッズは、この際、置いて行きます。ラッペルする必要がある場合のATCは除く。プルージックコードなどはイラナイです。アルパイン出身の人は余計なギアが多いです。捨てビナ、スパナは必要です。

６）リード中の思考は、１例として、このようになります。

１ピン目が遠くて安全に掛けられないようであれば、プリクリップします。そのロープに決してテンションしないように、1本目の中間支点まで登ります。テンションして登れば、フリーではなくなり、エイドクライミングになってしまいます。

２本目のクリップまで登りますが、そこまで行くのに落ちるような箇所がある場合は、登攀を断念します。

”ランニング１本で、激おちできるか？どうか”は、下のビレイヤーが上手か？ボルトがカットアンカーなどの脆弱なものではなく、グージョンもしくはケミカルアンカーで確実なものである場合に限ります。

下のビレイヤーを見て、立ち位置が壁から遠い（50ｃｍ以上離れている）場合にランニング１つだけでリスクを取ることはできません。

さて、登攀に問題がなく、ボルトも確実で、ビレイヤーも良かった、という３つの条件が成立した場合、2ピン目をかけます。クリップの体制は、まだ2ピン目なので最大の注意を払ってください。ここで、たぐり落ちすると、グランドフォールの危険があるのは、別にランナウトしていなくても、です。

ビレイヤーも、３ピン目を取るまではものすごく細かくロープ操作してください。壁にはぴったりと張り付いてください。なんせ登っているクライマーが初心者なのですから。

余談ですが、ベテランと登りなれているビレイヤーは、壁から遠かったり、警戒心が十分でない場合が多いので、しょっちゅう落ちているような下手くそと登っている、十分経験を積んだ、ビレイヤーを採用しましょう。ビレイヤーの選択は重要です。

クリップでは逆クリップに気を付けます。またロープをまたいではいけないのは、人工壁と同じです。

さて、3ピン目までは、２ピン目と同じ警戒が必要です。3ピン目を取るまでは決して落ちてはいけないです。落ちるくらいなら、登らない。もしくは、クライムダウンします。テンションはＯＫです。というかロープにぶら下がらないと、地面に戻れないです。

ボルトですが、グージョンは緩んでいる場合があるので、17㎜スパナを常に携帯しておきます。ひもをつけてハーネスにぶら下げる。（ボルトがカットアンカーの場合は別途）

敗退とする場合は、捨てビナを使います。古いクライマーには、回収可能な懸垂下降のセットを使う人もいますが、ひっかかるという失敗があると、ビナどころか、ロープも回収不能になって再度登る羽目になります。

さて、3ピン目かけれたら、いよいよ自由がやってきました！

ここからは何が起ころうが、チャレンジ可能です。思う存分、好きにクライミングを楽しみましょう。とはいえ、うっかり立木にヒットなどしないように。

ビレイヤーは、張りつめていた緊張を緩めます。とはいえ、緩めすぎで、ダラリンビレイにならないように。あんまりタイトなビレイをすると登りにくいです。とはいえ、相手は初心者。出し過ぎないほうが賢明です。

ベテランはタイトだと文句言ってきます。コンペの選手も、制限時間があるクライミングなのでタイトなビレイは文句を言ってきます。逆に初心者にとっては、ロープの張でビレイヤーがクライマーを注視してくれていることが分かるのは、安心の根拠です。

やっと５ピン目に来ました！無事核心も終わり、終了点です。

しかし、終了点で頭が真っ白になるのが初心者。ロープを直がけなどしてはなりません。通常、次に登る人がいる場合は、ヌンチャクふたつ使って終了点を作ります。が、下のビレイヤーがこの課題を登りたいか？どうかが問題です。

「どうする～？登る？」と聞きます。うん、登ると言われた場合；

まずは終了点にセルフビレイを取ります。クイックドロー（ヌンチャク）を取り出し、終了点にトップロープ支点を作ります。この時、落とす人が多いです。落ちるとビレイヤーに激突する凶器です。

セルフを外す前に、テンショーン、と声をかけます。確実にロープが体を掴んでいたら、折り返されているロープの方、壁に近いほうを握って、セルフを外します。両手をはなさないように。

ビレイヤーに回収したほうがいいのか、ヌンがけリードなのか、聞きます。（回収して！→より難しい、ヌンがけ→背の低い人用）

ビレイヤーにローワーダウンの命令をし、確実にローワーダウンが始まったら、ロープから手を放しても大丈夫です。下のビレイヤーが確実であるかどうか？は、クライマーとの共同作業です。

ビレイヤーは確実にクライマーの命令に従います。ビレイヤーは、この場合、クライミングギアです。

ローワーダウンの主たるリスクは、すっぽ抜けです。これは、登る前に、課題の距離×２のロープ長があることが普通は確認済みなのですが、それでもすっぽ抜けそうだと思ったら、末端を結びます。登る前に末端を結ぶ習慣がアルパインクライマーはあります。フリークライミングでは、短いルートが多かったり、最初から60ｍロープを使うことでリスク回避している人もいますが、昨今開拓されたルートだと、長いルートも多いです。

回収は、被っていると少し技術が必要です。解説が込み入ってしまうのでかぶっているルートの回収テクは別途。一般に人工壁の人は慣れています。

地面につくときは事故が多いです。ビレイヤーはそうっとおろします。そしてクライマーは、いったんしゃがんで、ロープをたるませて、８ノットをほどきます。

■　思考と吠える習慣

さて、ここまでで、こんな複雑な思考回路を経ているので、知性が低い人は登れません。

そして、ひとこと言わせてもらうなら、あんまり低いグレードで吠えるとかっこ悪いです。

日向神の5.10Aで吠えていた若い男性見ました…その課題、私がフツーに登った課題でした。

吠える＝かっこつけ、と思っていると思いますが…それは誤解で、吠えるのは、怖いからなんですよ？

なので、あんまり低いグレードで吠えると、逆にかっこ悪いです。うぉー！！と吠えるのは、一般に大体5.12より上に行ってからです。背中に鬼を担いでいて、自分のギリギリに迫っていて吠えるのは分かるけど…

ナインとか、イレブンで、吠えていたら…チワワが大きな犬を見て吠えるのと似ているかもしれません。

九州の若い男性で、おばちゃんのか弱い私が登れるようなのを登って吠えていたら…かっこいいのか？悪いのか？は、自分で考えましょう。

別に俺はかっこつけていない、ホントに吠えたかったんだ、というのは、ビビった、という話なんで…私がビビっていない課題をビビっていたっつー結論になります。

私は別にいいけど、本質を見る人からすると、それって、むしろ恥ずかしいことで自慢になるようなことではないでしょう。

5.14レベルの高難度を登るクライマーが、みんなクライミングビデオで吠えているので、真似したいって気持ちのためでしょうかね？ ますます何も考えていない証って話になるな。

適切なビレイ事例　

 

Hippy, climber, risk taker, or pionieer girl

Two years in California 

As a student of English, I wanted go learn to speak sooooo deadly, in my younger age. 

But how was the big question.  I was a first child of 3 siblings, and my mom was single mom... it does not seem possible to study abroad financially. 

But I made it. It was easy, I became an Au-pair. 

The information was hidden from the regular Japanese people since they want rich Japanese to pay for whatever worthless, they want to rip you off for nothing. 

So I became Au-pair and the family I worked for was Jewish catholic family, of doctor and college professor... married and two kids, 11 and 6 year old boys, living the wealthiest area at the time, in SF bay area. 

I had just one year contract but I felt 1 year was too short for me to get me English enough to use in business, so I extended 1 more years. 

I also moved to SF city, and started living on my own as baby sitter to commute to my workplace. 

Since I was living in a mission district, the poorest neighborhood in the city, I could concentrate on acquiring my English, working only 2 days in a week, the rest I was exploring the city, meeting a new people, and learning living English as a volunteer, in a St.Dolothess Church and Rainbow Thrift store, also red cross. 

I got a boy friend when I was in Alamo and also when in SF, not at the same time of course.  So largely my English came from them. So sometimes I got confused with vocabulary... I wish I could be more sophisticated but can not help anymore...

Anyway, I loved there. To be honest, I was to going back there in my 20's. I gave up my dream of having a life in SF where I feel at home. 

I am a kind of person feel home at hippy life, but I am in Japan, so square! 

That is what makes my life tough... I feel like I had to pretend as a normal Japanese, when I am total unfit to the regular Japanese society. 

Research on Japanese country side 

My home town is Kumamoto city, the second largest city in Kyusyu, and my mom and dad were from more country side, but they fled there to seek a financial success. 

My dad headed for Tokyo, which is like NY city in the U.S. where as my mom wanted to stay in the Kumamoto city, cosy but not backward. 

I grow up in the Kumamoto city and I think it was tooo small city, very close minded and backward compared to SF. 

SF doesn't have much size, but it is first quality culture and as a city, it has top-notch quality. 

The SF symphony and ballet is world class, their political stand point is historically liberal, and world class city in every aspects. 

I was living in near Walnut week, one hour bart commute to the city, and it was very dull... it is a good location for raising kids, but not much going on there. 

I took a ballet class in walnut creeks city center and it was chinease teacher so I was quite impressed.  

I moved 6 times in the city for I wanted to experiment every neighborhood in the city... I had lived with male homosexual, also lesbian mother who wanted a diverse environment for her hetero daughter. 

I had a boyfriend, middle class, blue eyed coccasion but he was not safe in the neighborhood I lived... since I was Asian, and I was a part of the neighborhood but he was not. 

I could easily use internet in SFSU as a guest since people were nice, I could use computer room as a neighbor, so I used my telnet command to tell my updates to my friend back in Japan. 

I even attended a class in UC Barkley.... one day, I went to the class as I do usually, and it was test day! I could not go out of the class and handed blank paper. 

So I had my share of fun time, I love to do that again, I was sooo poor, sometimes I had to put up with just some apples for a week, but it was the best prime time in my life. 

I was poor but poor were everywhere and I knew I was a good help to my neighbors also I was young and getting what I want from a life.

My boyfriend David did not want me go back to Japan. But I had school loan, which if I quit a school to get married to him, I had to return the money at all once. So there is no way of quitting my uni.  I was the hostage. 

So I had to give up my true wish for the money that time.... living in the city and get married to a guy I loved. 

He came to Japan but I was too busy to support my costly Osaka life, and finishing my theses...  in SF I was living on 500 dollers back then, but in Osaka, I could not go lower than 1500 dollers... the apartment only costed double... food was also double, and commuting... 5 times more. 

David was a family man and he missed his family so much and there were no kind Japanese who speak to him, kids run away from him, and older people hid from him, so he became alcoholic out of loneliness... it costed a lot to connected to the internet, wifi was not free like now, and telephone was so expensive. 

One day, he was on acute pain in his head, and we visited so many doctors but no one really could find the reason. He had to go back to the states immediately and it was a straight emergency room out of aircraft. 

I feel so badly about what had to happen to him. We broke up afterwards. 

Being a software engineer

It was my teenage dream that I became a programmer so I taught myself BASIC language at age 14, with a book. 

I became a librarian at 18 and back then, university library had most sophisticated access of Internet, using linux. I was young and I learned quickly about how to send email, and chat around the world, there were famous SF baymoo too, that I joined. 

So it was quite young I became familiar with internet, so coming back from the U.S., I taught new students in other university, how to install email software on your lap top or such.... 

Right before my graduation I was working as a student interpreter in a local machinary factory who installed a machine from Germany, and this job was easy and good paid, I could understand machinery better than an old man working there. 

So this job let me to Panasonic, a robot labo, so I became a engineer there, even though my major was English, not engineering. 

Everyone was surprised but it was no surprised to me at all, since robot language was same as Basic languages I learned at 14 and I was now 25. It was old knowledge already to me.  

Anyway, this is how I became a robot engineer at age 25 without getting engineering education. I was highly paid and soon became independent software developer. So one of my dream was accomplished. 

Marriage

Now, I wanted to get married have some kids. But this dream did not come true. 

I got married to my current husband Moto, the engineer also, at age 29. I was so heartbroken after I had broke up with David and Moto seemed very quiet and at ease. 

We brought our new home in the mid center of Osaka down town, tiny apartment, where I can commute by bicycle to my office, I was working for software company who sells software for mainframe, like IBMs. 

Since I was ex-programmer and knew already components of computers it was easy for me to translate software technical paper and I was very good at work. 

But sadly this job was run by very abusive president, he was violent to the people who were working for him...I was let go since I did not like the violence. 

My husband got a job transfer at the same timing and he desparately wanted me to come with him, so I accompanied with him in Fukuoka, the biggest city of Kyusyu, back then I was still not giving up working mom idea. 

So I find a job in Mitusi bussan, or should I say, they found me. I was A student in my business school in Osaka and took MVP in my marketing class but could not able to find a suitable marketing position then, and suddenly, Bussan was in front of me. 

Working as a sales in trading company was much different from working as an engineer... I knew I was a 3 times good engineer than average, since we major our productivity, and I was head hunted from telecom New Zealand back then, but as a office job, and sales, I was not sure of what to do... so this job was very strange to me, I did not know if I am doing good or bad... 

The job was mainly seeing people and listening what problem they've got, and thinking if we can help. Today's trading company doesn't trade goods, they trades business, so there were M&B's, starting-up, and investing a new business, or buying a business. 

One of those job in between were agri business and local development, and the move was so slow compared to software, we are just like having fun traveling around and listening to the seminars... making reports on those was my duty. 

My secret dream was becoming a journalist so I made a lot of good reports to the company back then, and I learned a lot about the business then. 

Yamanashi

My husband got a second job transfer to Yamanashi and I was shocked... I was going on 35... and not yet conceived... I was not giving up my dream of having a kid, and I was frustrated by this job transfer, since it takes so much time to set up the comfortable environment for a woman... I needed some girl friends when I need I can count on...

and Yamanashi was a way too country side... I can not find any office job that suit me.... I was working for a top notch company and no other company seem to fit me...  I consulted recruiter right after I moved to Yamanshi and she declared there is no job that fit to me in Yamanashi. I must go to Tokyo, if I work. 

I did so in Tokyo for a while but it was impossible for me to work in Tokyo, and get pregnant at the same time... too busy too stressful, keeping two houses...

I had a short trip to Melbourne back then to think about what to do with my life... and came back to Yamanashi deciding to become yoga teacher...

As I told before I was 20 year student of ballet so my body was already flexible enough to became a yoga teacher. In a year or so, I became a yoga teacher but I had to compromise largely my income. It became one of tenth. 

Mountaineering

I had too much time to kill and need something does not cost me too much so I started to visit the local mountains. I had also tried other things like having my own vegetable garden but it was too costly... 

The mountain was free of charge, costed me almost zero, except for the gas for the car. 

 So I started to go often and it was like becoming a friend to the nature... to my surprise I was a good climber, reader and it seemed my body agree to that. 

128 days in the mountains

so the busiest year I had climbed 128 days a year in the mountains... mostly snow and ice climbing, as I told before. 

A mountain guide

I was good enough to get a mountain guide license but I was not sure about the job even when I was in Yamanashi... 

because I saw guides who aren't earning at all... and in my opinion, a guiding system was wrong. 

You need at least two guides for any mountains for safety... but guides are basically working alone. 

3rd time job transfer

As my husband get his 3rd time job transfer I lost my yoga job which I worked for 6 years and earned my position of best selling teacher at the studio, and radio program in YBS... again in jobless, I did not know what to do next. 

I was going abroad for climbing which is pretty quick as a climber, I was only climbing for about 3 years then, and loosing job, loosing mountains I can ice climb, and loosing friends and partner was hard on me. 

Plus my husband do not understand my passion, I was constantly trying to go abroad and he was constantly trying to prevent me form feeling from old Japan. 

Now I am back in Kyusyu, where my old heritage is. I hate my home town for it is narrow sight...close minded culture. Ofcourse there are some people who are not like that, not conservative, but those people will go out of town looking for an opportunity for the better. 

I did had my opportunity but I could not grab sadly...

I am now where I am and don't know where to headed for. 

One thing is for sure, I spend 5 years in Fukuoka trying to find a best place to set up a Japanese version of GCH, where old and young, women and men, free climber and alpine climber can all climb in peace, is impossible to realize today's Japan. 

Even a slow starter like me, who started to climb at age 41 can climb this.

On Hygami, it's a very confused crag

Knee injury

Right before 3rd times in Korea Insubon, and Kishira expedition, I got a knee injury, dislocation. 

I did not take it seriously until I met a female climber with the same problem said it became habit. I do not want that habit. 

I was climbing with unstable knee since putting up was my standard of life. 

I put up with childhood poverty... as a first child of 3 and of single mother, I was the little house wife at age of 8, I was the primarily care taker at home for a long time.

I went for a night school in my uni... because I did not want my mom to carry harder burden... financially, so my independence was pretty early, I was working part-time at my high school sophomore. Worked full-time at a freshman of university. 

So putting up the hardship was my second nature... I did not realize that my knee injury was such a serious issue. 

Subconscious had protected me

But in my retrospect, I was climbing with people of not enough safety awareness... 

so my subconscious or my guardian angel? must have protected me by giving me this minor injury, just enough to keep me away from climbing but not a burden for regular life. 

So I stopped climbing. 

Local government and Crag

Instead, I started to use my business skills in introducing the crag to local governments.  

Japanese crags were not known by local government since climbers had felt somewhat guilty historically, they hid their activity from the world especially the government. 

But these days, local community needs attractions, they want tourists to come visit the country side villages where the crags are. They are welcoming even the deadly climbing. 

I had experience in working Mitsui Bussan before I started to climb, and developed local attractions such as Mojij port and renewal of Hakata station. It was part of my job that partially set the scheme of getting more tourists and paying off that cost. 

I had a experience in Green Climbers Home and The Bivy in Taiwan, so why not we in Japan has something similar? 

It seemed a good idea to me at first thoughts. 

So I did what I did like in my paying job, without being paid... 

I had introduced Nodake crag in Omura Local government, Hachimen crag in Nakatsu government, and was about to introduce Tengu crag in Itsuki local government... 

On Hyugami... it's a very confused crag

I had stopped to introducing Hyugami crag to Kuroki government since Hyugami crag's bolts are too old and too dangerous for accepting guest climbers...  Modern free climber thinks it is OK to fall at any route at any bolts... falling in the Hyugami is very conditional, i.e., at some routes bolts are chemical, so it is safe as bolt-wise but is is too runout, so easy peasy fall is nono

... like Muchuhokou 5.9, from the 1st to 3rd running is very far to each other so you can not fall, but I think it is very easy, RCC II's 3rd grades(about 5.4?), but on the top of the routes you need to make a 5.10b kind of move... that is the crux.  So it is OK to make a fall in that crux since it is a way up high, and bolts are secure, since it is chemical, but nono to fall until you clip first 3 bolts. 

Can you understand how difficult to explain the situation? 

Do you think modern gym climbers will understand the situation? 

And most of the routes are still "Cut anchor" and top rope is impossible without climbing lead... 

You need eyes for bolts and eyes for runouts.

so, I concluded that is is too complicated to accepts guests and even as a local climber, Hyugami had no attraction. It was not like Ogawayama. 

Difference between Ogawayama and Hyugami

Ogawayama is granite slab and crack, it is basically trad crag. So when bolts are too far away, you are supposed to reinforce the safety by your own decision. 

See this photo of me climbing;

As you can see, I added 2 small cams before I climb different steepness. It is the basic of protection placement. Different angle, another protection. Because human body had to go climb with different technique. More chance of accidents. 

The policy is ; When possible take your pro, or you are fool. Unless you are too confident you can not fall at all. This is very famous 5.10c slab. 

On the contrary, this is Hyugami.  There is no room for adding protection of your own. 

This is only 5.10b, but it is NOT recommendable for beginner since the start of the climbing is bumpy, you can hit the bump. Even if you clip properly. Belayed properly.

The bolt is not good enough placed as you see. If I fall now, I will hit the rock. 

I had climbed down this problem. I don't like this one. I would recommend 5.11 or above climber to lead this 5.10b. Since fall is not acceptable. 

 Also, I think this route's bolt can be more wisely placed. Overhang definitely need to be properly set. 

As a ice climber, I was setting my protections so I could detect this poorly set bolts but normal free climber at a beginner level of 5.1X... will have no way of knowing.

So this is the quick explanation of different climb of the different crag. 

Hyugami, was developed as a aid climbing crag at first and in aid climb, taller was the better climber, so their theory was not fit to free climbing. 

Past glory…not eyes open for today

It is not even developed by ground-up, so aid climbed in a beginning with cheap scary bolts, means not suited for free climbing which is fall is norm.... 

Also there were a way too many developers competing their EGO there, it is impossible for them to understand what best in the today's climb... they are too trapped past glory... when a high school student can onsight 5.12 in the first day of his climb.... they can not stop forgetting their first 5.9 of runout, so, the best strategy is to wait.  

Otherwise, unnecessary bolts might be added.  Since no one really listening the song of the rocks. Their intention is somewhere else.

In English saying, there is "Any road gets you there if you don't know where you going... " is the exactly what happened to this sad crag... at first, aid climbing, and the cheap bolts used for aid climb was kept used for free climbing, cheap bolts, and sometimes scary setting, sometimes wrongly setting, sometimes overly protective, and lack of diligence. This belay station was legacy. A hand made.　

It was like 40 years ago Japan was kept alive.

           Legacy anchor example.  No one in mainland Japan used this kind anymore

I hope the situation gets better in Hyugami, since it is the most popular crag in Kyusyu. 

But I can not recommend anyone beginner or traveler since it is too picky and too spooky to trust. I will be so irresponsible if I do. 

The sad thing is people there can not realize this. The even more sad is people with a up-to-date knowledge is just waiting for them to die, since the things straighten up is better off for everyone except for developer.  Without him everyone is happier... isn't that sad or what...? 

 

Buddha taught me it is the attachement

My 2-year younger partner

I had stopped climbing with my ex-senior partner called "Araki", he was 2 year younger than me,  since I noticed he was unaware of the risk of old rotten bolts and also the risk of being egged to do something silly... like going to the multi-pitches, without two ropes. I guess we were tricked by local climbers.

It was the famous routes, called "Hakua slab", he wanted to go there without proper rope setting. 

It was my own mistake I followed him, but if I said no to him, he may not have any partners to go climb there; it is 5 pitch climb, 5.8 face, two 5.10a slabs, 5.11 crack, 5.7 face, we went for one single rope of 50 m when even the first pitch had 35m and it was a far from a success climb. Actually, it is one of the worst climb I ever did. so I was ashamed of.

How? Everytime in my turn, rope was not up. The first case, it was stuck by wrongly placed cam, so I had to climb with rope. Not free climb, so it was not at all fun, it was just an exercise.  

The second, he connected two pitches missing the belay station, so rope length was not enough, again I had to hang on the rope which was unsure if he caught me. When I went up to him, we were hanging onto a single one bolt, which was the "cut anchor"... so if that bolt got failed, we both were hit down to the earth.  

It was sabotage of the proper planning but also, the local meant "do not use the bolt" by using the term of "There is no going back" and my mistake was that  I had trusted him without my regular "trust but check" process. 

I think now, he was egged to do so by local climbers who were so mean to new comers who innocently trust any bolts, they wanted to test him, because he does not know the climb in Kyusyu so much, they don't care any outsider dies... they have no conscience.  

Also he wanted to show off his skills and also…sadly he was one of those kind; he wanted deadly included by members of Kyusyu...it is so important to him that he is same as the others. So he desperately needed to do something bold so he will be included. In short, he wanted respect so deadly. I could sensed it. So I wanted to help with that. I was thinking of my dead brother.

I was too nice to him even before I came to Kyusyu since any men younger than me, feels like my past younger brother who died young. He was an athlete and he did not do well at school, I was the smarter one and he seemed a bit challenged about his intelligence... so I felt obliged to help him all the time. 

This was "Projection". 

I did not realize I am projecting my dead brother to young fellow climbers... I felt sorry for them all the time for not quite being able to assess the risk of climbs.

Because I myself had climbed with my great climbing mentors... I never felt scared as a second, rope was proper all the time, and I could trust 100%. 

So I was feeling I was privileged, and somehow trying to let them know what I am learning from my mentors. Like a beautiful rope work.

But after this "Hakua slab" climb, I understood those young climbers would never learn from the wise men. Because the intention is different.

The intention creates the world; Buddha says.

The climb is there only as a nice background flame of male narcissism. Not as something of young men's passion. 

Who would put one's life on someone else to look good on a picture? It is foolish. 

That is how my life was treated like a trash. 

I was so sad that I foolishly trusted the climber who only wants to look good and proud, without taking responsibility as a climber...  

Kishira

I went for Kishira trad crag in Kagoshima. 

There were the trad route that seemed my level, so I wanted to lead, but he did not offer his belay in back, so I finally understood our relationship. Finally, I cut him off, realizing I was only being used.  

BTW, my belay is pretty secure since I was climbing much heavier climber as my mentor and my body weight is light, natural shock absorber. I am at risk though. 

So he only took the advantage of this.  Usually Japanese men hates climbing with a woman since he does not want to look sissy. Sometimes there are men who wants to only climb with female, because they know female climbers are better takers of responsibility of belay.

Stolen partner

There were a climber who came to rope with me, and this guy was taken by him... so I am again being used by him many times. 

It was not the first time, he stole my partner who without me he could not know each others. 

I was sad being used and being such sad position but it was better than being killed... 

This kind of people has mixed up sense of give&takes, since I knew he wanted me to introduce Korean ice just to "jojn the club" in Kyusyu... I am a better ice climber than him, also have better skills climbing abroad... why do I have to serve my hard earned skills to fulfill someone who disrespect me?  I was even a professional interpreter and translator. They won't even offer me a belay and used me like a trash. Why am I obliged to offer my skills? It is not give and take, it is give and stolen.  This happens a lot when men are too proud of himself. He usually treats women like his mom. Since moms put sons first for anything.

I just can not find the reason.  I am explaining this in a way they could understand, which is give and take, it is give and taken in my case.

If you are cooperative climber, you must watch for it. You may not given anything back.

Attachment

Yet, I could not let go of climbing... since it was "attachment". 

After 2 years of studying Buddhism, I finally realized, I was trying to find the answer for my question... 

"Why my father had to abandon me as a child of age 6, my brother age 4, and my sister age 2...?"

My mom had to divorce my dad since he did not work, made girlfriends, also drunk, even abused us...  the last sight of him I remember is my dad sleeping in a pool of his own water, drunk. 

The pain of abandoned kid, persisted in me, and I was trying to find the reason why my father abandoned us and did not loved us... however made my mom pregnant, not just once, three times. I remember her crying being abused.

My mom was to my dad was just an accessory or a gear to make him look nice. 

He never wanted us kids, he only wanted to please himself with sexual pleasure like climbers who only wanted to fulfill his narcissism by bragging how good he is. 

Perhaps for most men, climbing is a substitute for ejaculation. Especially, outdoor boulder. 

Anyway, I knew why I was put in danger for so many times now. It is the intention of the climbing... he only wanted to look good. 

And that intention will never change. 

Flash back

And it was my attachment toward the question which draw me toward such immature climbers...  

I was having a flash back of my earliest memory of my dad... he pushed me in a swimming pool, believing a baby can swim without being taught how... I was drowned and my dad face was smiling without knowing I am as a baby girl, drawn... in front of my guardian's eyes... Guardian is not a guard to me, it was a threat. 

So finally I got rid of my threat. 

 

Conclusion: Green climbers home in Japan is impossible!

The climbing culture in Japan

They are competing how bold they were by jumping off from the 40-year-old Cut anchor believing it is stronger than cams.  The truth is cam is safer since you can add anytime if you feel unsafe. 

The sport climbing in the crag is considered safest choice in the climbing community. 

However it is only so, only when bolts are placed properly. And this is not done in Kyusyu. 

but it is not so in Japan, that can explain recent popularity in trad.

I was climbing with my senior at ex alpine club which I joined shortly, when I was a beginner,  and we went for Azumaya crag, for our first time in cragging in Kyusyu.

The R route without R  ... Indian Face

There we saw a grand fall.　https://allnevery.blogspot.com/2018/04/blog-post_23.html

The grand fall was done in the route called, "Indian face 5.10b". I happened to see the entire accidents and belayer was standing properly very close to the wall, and the tall male climber failed to clip the 3rd one. He broke his back born and carried to the hospital. 

My climbing partner had to go clean up. He could red-point up to 5.12. So the 5,10b should be easy enough to him. He did not seem to notice the runout between 2nd and 3rd.

On the contrary, I was horrified!  

Because, 5.10b is my grade, I was very positively trying to onsite those grades. something of 5.1X... was my next level. 

5.10b ----> 5.10d

Later at home, I consulted to a lady climber who I knew in Kyusyu, a new friend, about this accidents. 

She told me "Maybe the 5.10b was not correct, since Azumaya is the crag that is told the grades are two grades high"

I asked her, "So you mean, 5.10b was actually 5.10d?" 

"No", she said, "It may be 5.11b". She also said this crag is no one really enjoys since it is badly bolted. It was the first "Free climber"'s opinion. 

I could onsight there 5.8 and 9. But in retrospect, the bolts were infamous "cut anchor". 

Later I met the developer there, and I did not like him. He was one of those, who are so proud of his skill, how bold he is, and force other people should do exactly same as him. Each people has each strength and skills. Expecting the same talent to everyone is just impossible but some people do not realize it until they kill someone. I only feel so sorry for those guys... for I had young brother, 2 year younger than me and he was medalist swimmer but had passed away at age 24... I think of my dead bro, all the time when I saw this kind of people, too short sighted. 

Syayou 5.9

Later in the summer of 2017, I was in Osaka, to take care of my downtown apartment.  There, my climbing mentor was back to his old house also, to celebrate his grand children was born. 

He took me out for drinking, and there I learned about the routes called Syayou 5.9. 

The Kansai climber was very honest people, anybody can read what's going on in the crag and what to be considered. 

"Syayou" had 6 serious accidents, and 4th running was too far, so when failed, people broke there legs. 6 cases are good enough. 

My climbing mentor was complaining that the developer is too proud of himself so stubborn that he did not let replace the bolt at a proper height, 70 cm　lower... he insisted that the belayer should run backwards. Silly. 

70 cm is not the distance I can manage somehow, as a short climber... so I was horrified again... 5.9 was my onsite grade those time, so I was willing and eager to climb anything labeled 5.9. So I took this conversation as a gift from my mentor; he must have warned me. 

The good thing is that in Kansai(Osaka), those were discussed. In Kyusyu, there is no open discussion nor warning of badly placed bolts for new comer.  So it works some sort of tricks, people climb without knowing it is R, or X.  

The culture in Green Climbers Home in Laos 

I was fascinated by the culture of Green Climbers Home since I could pick up any route and climb without feeling too much fear... 

I wanted to build the bottom of climbing pyramids... according to Wolfgang Güllich, your climbing skill makes pyramid construction, very stable 5.9 climber is a beginner in 5.10b, two grades higher. So based on this theory, I am finally allowed to lead climb outdoor crags... since I hardly ever fall in 5.9 which is equivalent to 5c. 

I wanted to climb as many 5c as I can since I am determined to build the solid base of my climbing skill so I won't ever fall in 5.9. 

I finished climbing all 5c there and noone looking down on me, not just that, young men at my half of age were struggleing at the same 5c, sometimes I am better than they. 

A one 7A climber told me, "I can climb up to 7A but sometime I struggle even at 6A so this is what is fun in the climbing. We all struggle." 

Another climber said, "I can climb 5.13 if I try and try and try, but I enjoy any level of climb. So it is not a big deal if you need me clean up for your draw."

He was a very popular man in the crag, every one loved him. I did not need to ask him to clean up my draw but I thought it is a very different climbing culture than Japan. 

Japanese climbing culture

In Japan, if you fall on 5.9, people look down on you. Talk behind you that you are no climber.  You are trying something at your limitation, and can not retrieve you draw? People call you a name. Looking down on you. That is so nasty. Unforgiving. 

I was very scared to lead 5.9 in Ogawayama for a long time, since I can not reach to the bolts... from where I am standing, when taller people can easily clip to the bolts, for their safety, I could not. 

I had to be able to stand smaller foot stance, then it will not be 5.9, more like 5.11...  clipping failure can be fatal, I had already done in my Ogawayama without my mentor...  it was forced lead climb from my younger fellow, they are so unconscious bout climbing grade differ by body size. 

They knew me climbing harder in plastic so they said, "Why don't you try this 5.10b" and it was peer pressure. I could not reach the 3rd bolts, failed to clip with rope on my hand so I was at 50 cm meter above the ground when I was caught. 

I said to myself I should never climb by peer pressure again.  

Back to home, in the car, the young man who took us said, "You were most dangerous climber today..." and he did not seem to realize it was forced lead climb and I did not say I want to lead that one, it was him, who wanted me to go there, even though I had nothing else to climb. He was climbing 5.13 and 99% of his climbing was hang dog, whereas I was taught not to fall ever as an alpine climber.  

So, this is the difference in two culture. 

In Japan, it is something of "Pride" and "Boldness".  They are competing. It will eventually kill someone of course, the weakest ones. 

So it is impossible to stop killing since it is a mass bullying is what is happening. They need a cat to be kicked.  and as a short, older started,  I am the easiest target.

I do not want to join the competition, it is no worth. I don't care who is the most bold. I care about my life.

In GCH, it is just "fun stuff" and "take it easy".  No one sets the male pride on climbing grade, I think it is foolish that showing off to climb better than me who started to climb at age 41 and you are only 14 year old young man. Ofcourse you win. Or you've been climbing around 40 years now? Ofcourse you win.

 

Japan. The crags and situations.

My education

I was taught the early stage climbing education in Sangaku Sougou Center, in Nagano. It is the mountaineering educational school, run publicly by Nagano prefecture. 

Why? Because, alpine clubs in local area can not function anymore for they are getting older, no one to teach young brad. 

I started the mountains at age 38 as a substitute for my classical ballet as my regular exercise, and I was only interested in snow. Summer time, the mountains are very crowded and uncomfortable, so I did not have experience in alpine rock. 

But I had experience in snow mountain I spend 3 years prior to the school. 

In the mountaineering school, I was taught from rappel in the snowy mountains. Belay was using snow bar and bolart, so huge runout is just considered normal, it is impossible to set running every 3 m...  

I did not have sport climbing experience at all so it took me a year to understand belay in free climbing... it is not the same in the mountains, where you are mostly walking than climbing. 

I was one of 5 women in 35 participants and 2 women had left in the first day. So there were only 3 women in the 1 year course. The teacher of my team of 4 was one of the cheif of rescue team in Yatsugatake mountains. I was the strongest walker in my team, the other member was all male but they weren't getting used at walking in the snow. 

Soon I had my first climbing mentor Suzuki. He was the wisest mentor I ever had. At his, I climbed very introduction of alpine rock, like Mitsutouge, or Jyogo sawa to Iou mountain... or Sawa nobori. 

so I am no expert in Free climbing nor Sport climbing. Those climbing style was not aimed, it was only used to reinforce my basic skills in the mountains. 

Now I am an ice climber since my second mentor was so, but this is too, for me, it was a choice of safety. As I learned snow, I soon realized that I am too old and too weak to keep going up for the snow mountains. so I switched to climbing. Because it was safer and still I can spend my day in a mountain.  So I was not a person who take half an hour only to get a head lamp out of my backpack, from the beginning.

Japan's crag

so I spent my early time in Yamanashi, and climbed ice falls mostly. The summer time was dull time, I spend my most time in practicing yoga and climbing gym was not a place for me at all... 

I loved mountains for its beauty... the gym? I went there only because it is necessary... I was good ice climber according to my mentor,  better than men who are good at in the gym. In ice climb, you dance on the ice so there aren't much to share in the climbing gym. 

It was only in 2016 that I met Yoshida, a famous free climber, the first full-time climber in Japan. I needed to learn how to climb trad. so I went for him. I could climb 5.10 in that year so my mentor took me to Insubone Korea. 

Kyusyu ... a time capsule

Until I came to Kyusyu, I was not at all aware of crag situation in local areas of Japan. 

Kyusyu, the crags are bolted by bolts called "cut anchor".... it looks as regular bolts but it is not. 

 This is the cut anchor. Who can tell? I noticed this by trying to provide bolts to developer. He did NOT know FIXE. 

    This is how the bolt should look like, see the head is different

It has 5-15kN strength when freshly installed, it is about the same as red camelot, and the bolts are 40 years old now. Very dangerous. 

In my free climbing education, I was taught I should NEVER fall until I clip 3 draws. 

In fact, if I can not clip 3 times, with confidence, I should never even try. I was taught this but even in Yamanashi, young climbers are falling without worrying about bolts might be broken. Kyusyu? even more so. They are competing. which is not my cup of tea.

In Kyusyu, I was called as Chicken for the same reason I was loved in Yamanashi

But I witnessed so many scary habits in Kyusyu... like using grip belay with ATC, belaying only one hand, belay device was not attached to the body, sitting while belaying, wrong grading, huge runout...

Old rustic bolts was only one things... there seemed tons of problems. Basically lack of climbing education, i.e., "Modern"belay and self-rescue rope work, seemed missing. 

and people were competing how bold they were by jumping off from those 40 year old rustic bolts and if you don't, they bully you calling you as chicken. OK, let them.

So this was what I am experiencing in Kyusyu, it is too childish and I consider my life worth much more than those foolishness. 

 so called "experienced" climber in the "famous" alpine club gave me this photo, and me in the left... WHAT??? why two climbers climbing? We went there 3 so only one is belaying for two climbers... So this photo froze me and I never seen them again. It was the first time I climbed with them as a newbie, and I had to lead.

Lesson; never trust old climber till he shows his truth!

 

クライマーの皆さん そろそろ日本のクライミング教育に向き合いませんか⁇

■　バレエ歴20年

である。大人からスタートして、一般のバレエ女子が辞める年齢…18歳でバレエをスタートした。だから大人でスタートしたおばちゃんたちには羨望のまなざし（笑）。 38歳で山梨ではどうしてもバレエ教室がなく、断念して、代わりにクライミングをすることになったんだが…。

このような動画が回ってきた。

「教師の皆さん‼️」そろそろ日本のバレエ教育に向き合いませんか⁇

 まさしくクライミング界も　向き合ってほしい。

　間違っていることは、いくら、　みんながやっていても間違っている

のである。

■　「暗黙知」になっているボルトが危険、という情報

九州には、カットアンカーの 岩場しかない。

カットアンカーは、

　”40年経っていなくても”　5-15ｋNしか強度がない

わけだし、一体どうやって、一般社会人であるボルトルート専門クライマーが、

　カットアンカーは、コンクリートのプロですら使わない安物だ、

と知っているはずがあるのだろう？知っているはずがないですよね。

■　陰湿ないじめ文化

白亜スラブに行った時、別にボルト知識はなく、普通に小川山のボルトのように信頼して登った。

パートナーの荒木さんは、八面に誘ってくれた時、夏だから下部エリアで、という選択の仕方で、八面では最もボルトが危険だと言われている、浜田ラインだの周辺のルートを選択。

つまり、山梨で10年登っていても、ボルトに対する警戒心というのは、育っていないということだと思う。つまり、彼も知らなかった。

その後、白亜スラブに行ったわけだが、明らかにリボルトに急を要する岩場で、現地の人たちの話では、”敗退なし”とかっこつけて言うが、それはかっこつけ、で、ボルトが危険すぎて敗退を前提にした常識的な計画を立てることができない、という意味だ。ボルトにお世話にならず登るしかない、それしか登れないルート、つまり、

　ロープがあっても、オールフリーソロ

で登れ、という意味。”残置無視”できる実力がないと日本の岩場では、安全を確保した登りはできない。なにしろ、残置が一番あぶないのだから。

■　漠然としているボルト知識

御坂山岳会の先輩は、私が兜岩に行きたがると嫌がり、城山一択。城山はケミカルだからだ。小川山にもなかなか付き合ってくれない慎重さだったが、理由は説明されなかった。

2000年代以前に開拓された岩場へ行ってはいけない 

というのなら、その以後の岩場はどこにあるのか？公開されていないので、登りに行こうにも、どうやって行けというのか？

私はどちらかというと、ラッキーで、その後は、指導者クラスと登ってきたが、そうでない荒木さんは、彼が白亜スラブに行かされた、というのは、

　半ばハメられたんではないか？

と今では思う。なにせ、

　挑発に弱そう

だった。別の友人で、九州で、

　懸垂支点を１点しかとらずに懸垂するのを嫌がったら、チキン呼ばわりされた

と語ってくれた人がいるが、支点１個で降りるなんて非常識なので、チキン呼ばわりするほうがおかしい。

しかし、

　常識を言っているだけなのに、チキン呼ばわりというイジメ

は、私のように41歳でクライミング始めました、とか、身長152ｃｍしかないです、とか、握力17ｋｇです、みたいな人…つまり、クライミング弱者…にまで、および、

　九州の集団イジメ体質の陰湿さ

は、非常に強い。恥ずかしいことになっている。これを理解したのは、先日、チェーンソーを使う場でだ。

私の胸高になる位置にログが積み上がり、端っこを玉切りしないといけなかったが、そんなのを私にやれと言うのである。

は？！である。普通はチェーンソーは腰高で使うように安全教育を受ける。九州は別の山でも、チャップスなしで安全軽視の木こりを見たが、そういうのが俺イケてる、って文化らしい。そのおじさんは、私に向かって、出来損ないの奴みたいな態度をとった。馬鹿らしい。

その場には、152cmの私より小さいおじさんがいて、「俺にも危険だ」ということで、かばってくれたが…　その、挑発してきたオジサンは、びっこひいていた…ので、たぶん、元々自分が挑発に乗りやすい性格で、粋がって無理をしたんだろう…同じ目に遭う同じ穴のムジナを募集中だったのかもしれないが…

仲良くしていた淵田さんが、「やってー」と声をかけたら、「いいっすよー」と気軽に対応してくれ、普通の強い男なら、それが当然の対応だと思った。

女の私に図体デカい男が勝って、何の自慢になるのだろう？

バカみたいな男のプライドに付き合わされるために、私が命がけになり、それで死んだら責任取ってくれるのだろうか？

男同士はすぐ挑発に乗る。半ば、それは遊びで、当然だからだ。

　「お前、階段、何段飛べる？」

　　「俺、５段」

　「ぼく、６段」

　「俺、10段飛べるぜ！」　それで大怪我しても尊敬を貰える、というのが男の子の世界なのだ。 

一方、それは10歳で卒業した紳士の世界は、「あ、それは背の低い人には危険だから、私がやりましょう」である。

九州のボルトは、すべからく40年経過しており、危険なうえ、その情報は一か所にまとめられておらず、そのことを知ることができないため、危険この上ない。

その上、挑発文化だ。

ちなみに、支点１点でボルトにぶら下がってダメ男呼ばわりされた人は、今では、世界のアルパインクライマーと一緒に登って、とっくに上級クライマー仲間入りしているのである。

九州で、同様に頭角を現したいと思っている若いクライマー君がいるなら、さっさと危険な火遊びによるバカバカしい命がけクライミングは足を洗って、さっさと山梨でクライミングすることを薦める。ジムもいいのがたくさんあるし。トップクライマーへの道は、北杜市からスタートするのである。

デビューが心配なら、最初に入間のベースキャンプに行けば大丈夫。初心者講習もそろっている。世界のユージが設定したグレード感も身に着けられる。

■　野岳よ、お前もか…

九州ではグレードが適切と言われている野岳の”現在”のボルト。カットアンカー。コンクリートのプロが一目で却下したボルト。これではいくら適切なグレードでも登れない。長崎では大村の北村議員に事情を話してあるので、開拓者がやる気さえあれば、出資してくれると思います。周辺で無料で宿泊できるだろう場所もあり、理解者も豊富です。

■　怖いほうがいい

余談だが、挑発おじさんは、後で私がチェーンソーを使っているのを見て、納得したようだった。私は怖がりなので、チェーンソーも使うの下手ではないらしいです。

クライミングも同じでしょう。山梨では、「怖いんです」と困り感を訴えると、たいていの人からは、「怖いほうがいいですよ」と返事が返ります。 

それにそもそも、クライミングは、自分のスキルがリスクに勝って快感、という遊びでアリ、どれだけ怖いもの知らずか？を自慢するための遊びではない。

百歩譲って、怖いもの知らず自慢の遊びだとして、それで女に勝って、何の自慢になるのだ？

日之影で自伐型林業がスタート

 自伐×日之影がスタート

■　悪業を作らない仕事をクライマーに

ログハウスを作っている間に、日之影で自伐型林業がスタートしためでたいニュースが飛び込んだ。

去年、日之影のクライマーは、平素は自伐型林業で生業を立てつつ、クライミング振興したらよいのではないかと提案したが、

・下刈り

のニンクを要求されるようで、下刈りしていたら、自伐型林業でもなんでもない、ただの補助金にすがる既存林業で、さらに言えば、下流に水害もたらすだけである。つまり、まったく善とは言えない。

ただですら、オツムの弱い人が多いクライマーに、こんな善悪の判断の微妙な業界を薦めたら、知らないで悪業を積んでしまう人が増えると思ったため、途中アボートした。私の判断基準は、自分の死んだ弟に、この仕事を薦めることができるか？どうか？である。

が、ちゃんと自伐型の森が進んでいた。うれしい！さすが元・行政マンが入っているだけのことはある。 ちなみに私はこの方のファンである。

橋本先生に会いたいと思って、水上から連絡してみたが、ちょうどすれ違いで会うことができなかった（残念）。

■　現代社会は、善の仕事は見極めが難しい

去年、チェーンソーもユンボも使えるようになったが、免許は採っていない。積雪期ガイドステージⅡの資格も危急時講習以外で採れるが、取っていない。

やりたいことがあったとしても、それを職業にしてしまうと、悪業を積むことになる仕事…というのがあるからだ。

何をやるか？が問題なのではなく、どういう文脈の中でやるか？が問題となるということ。

しかし、これは社会への深い理解がいるから、資格取得のための勉強をスタートして業界研究が進み、そういう話ね、と分かったころに、職業にしてはいけない、と分かることになる。資格取得費用の無駄だが、そのコストを惜しんではいけないと思う。

事例：

登山ガイド　→　山を自分で学ぼうとせず、自己顕示欲だけの”登山客”を連れていく羽目になり、なおかつ、体の小さい人には自分の命が危険になる。ヒトの自己顕示欲のために自分の命を差し出すような、そんな愚かなことはしてはいけない。

自伐型林業　→　実際は自伐型をせず、既存林業の儲けの出ないところである、下草刈りや植林のニンクに駆り出される、ババ引きのババ、でもあり、なおかつ、水害の原因となっている既存林業に手を貸すことになる場合がある。よくよく見極めが必要。

ということだ。ロボット事業でも、ロボットで人間を苦役から救うのかと思ってブラックを我慢して開発部ではだいぶ身を粉にして働いたが、実は東南アジアの人件費と競争で、貧困を加速することになっていた。

■　ロクスノ整理中…

自分のやりたいことが分かりつつあるので、ロクスノ処分しようかと思って、手に取ったら、つい読み込んでしまった…。

私はアイスクライマーであり、夏はルート（ロープ）をやっていたので、ボルダーの記事はスルーしていたのだが…色々見てみると、やはり私が日之影町に

　自伐型林業×ボルダーの振興

で、行政に提案していることは、ものすごくまとを得た提案だということが確認できた。

 何しろ、あの、白石アシマちゃんが、

　日之影ボルダーは世界中のクライマーが来たいと思うと言っている

のである（ロクスノ071）。そりゃそうだ。小山田さんが、あれだけほれ込んでいるのだもの。

トポを英語化すれば、今すぐ海外クライマーが見込めそうだ。

■　時代錯誤　比叡

比叡のトポである『宮崎の岩場』のトポが、紹介されていた（同075）が、ひどいもんだと思う。

というのは、比叡のボルトは、私の白亜スラブの記事を読んでいただけば分かるように、

　カットアンカー

であるからだ。最近、コンクリート型枠職人というプロにあったが、一目で却下されていたカットアンカー。ド素人さんしか選ばない。

あんなものに命を預けるルートを堂々と世間に紹介して、涼しい顔をしてはいけない。比叡は、至急グージョンに全うち替えしないといけない。

カットアンカーの強度で、みんなに登ってもらおう、ということが、時代錯誤甚だしく、彼らはさらにリボルトでもカットアンカーを使いそうになっていたのだから、罪深い。

ホントにボルトに関する勉強や研究が、皆無だった…、ということになる。情報源がゼロなのだろうか？

何も開拓は知らないないワタシのような一般クライマーですら、ボルトを捜すときは、検索キーワードは、普通、

　　”FIXE社”

である。クライマーなら、なんかどこかで、聞いたことがあるはずだ。この中で色々ありすぎて選べない！と悩んでいる間に、カットアンカー事件が起きた。

今、検索したら、なんとAmazonでもクライミング用のボルトとハンガーは売っており、これらを見れば、UIAAの基準を満たすか、どうか、が大事なポイントなんだな…、と分かる。

 https://www.amazon.com/rock-climbing-bolt-hanger/s?k=rock+climbing+bolt+hanger

どれだけ九州の古いクライマーたちの時間が止まっていたか、を示す事例だと思う。

なんせ、東さん開拓の野岳ですら、いまだカットアンカー。たぶん竜頭泉も同じだろう。

きっと年齢が行くと、誰でも、いわゆる情弱、情報弱者になるのだろう、と思うが、誰でも、ではないのは、自分の基準のまま、世界が進化していることに気が付かず、優れていると思って自慢してしまう、ということだろう。

40年前にトップクラスでも、その40年前のままの実力があったとしても、現代では、中級者です…　なんせ40年前って、5.9が登れたら、会でスゴイ！って言われたそうですが、今って5.9で落ちたら、もはやクライマーじゃねぇって顔される時代です…。　

まぁ、昔のルートには、5.9とグレーディングされている課題の中に、5.2～5.12まで全部一緒くたに含まれている、という問題が別に問題としてありますが。それでも、12止まりだもんね。5.12は現代では中級者です。

話はそれたが、日之影町に対して、私が間違った提案はしていなかったと改めて確認した次第である。

　１）日之影町は世界に誇れるボルダリングメッカである

　２）日之影×自伐型　は大変将来的に見込みのある組み合わせ

■　延岡

個人的には、延岡が結構好き。

海岸にそって長い防波堤があるが、津波の心配のある太平洋側だが、サーフィン移住がすでに盛んで、

　五右衛門風呂　×薪　×ボロ屋

　となりはフィリピン人

という

　多国籍でシンプルな暮らし

の人たちがすでに棲みついており、私の希望のヒッピーライフは、すでにサーファー移住者によって叶えられているのを目撃した。チェーンソーで仲良くなった講習生の加藤さんに泊めてもらった。学生のころ、大阪の長屋で暮らしたが、あんな感じだった。さらに五右衛門風呂×薪っていいですよね。ただし、旭化成に勤めると、善悪の物事が複雑化しそうであるが（笑）。 

■　行縢クラック

延岡は、日之影＆比叡より、行縢がすごい。一流クライマー（山野井、奥村）の初登ルートもあるし、 最近ではマルボーさんが開拓している。しかも、ボルト不要のクラック。ただし、南国ですぐ植生が復活してしまうので、こまめなメンテが必要、で、延岡こそ、

　スポーツ×ゲストハウス

で喰えそうである。祝子渓谷の管理人？は、温泉事業で食べていると思う。クライミングはそのものはお金にならないというか、出来ないものだから、何か他で食い扶持が必要だが、田舎ではその食い扶持の確保が難しい。うかつに進むと補助金食いつぶしの、寄生虫みたいな仕事に行き着いてしまう。

そうならず、地球の未来を作っていく仕事をクライマーはしたいものだが、そこを見つけるのは、私のような国家公務員レベルに教育を受けた者の責務であるように思う。そのような自覚を持つべきだという教育を受けた。母校の熊本高校では、ノブレスオブリッジと言われたし、大体、偏差値74の人が偏差値68の大学に進もうとしただけで、待った、がかかったような世界に住んでいたし、今も住んでいる。

余談だが、近所の五木の天狗岩を開拓したい！と言っていた飯山健司さんの追悼記事が、谷口けいさんの追悼記事と並んでいた（071）。

それから、世界の安間サチさんがギリシャ楽しい！記事を書いていたが、やっぱり上級クライマーでも、カリムノス楽しいそうです。

変な意地を張っていないで、日向神はカリムノスみたいに安全になったほうがいいと思います。そもそもエイドで開かれた岩場なんだから、ボルトが遠いって言ったって、その意味するところは、ランナウト王子って意味ではなく、単にただ背が高かった、って意味で、真逆なんだしねぇ。

ログハウスを作れるようになった

 ■　ログハウス作り

４泊５日でログハウスビルドの会に行った

これはラフのノッチ。

チェーンソー慣れをしていったためか、意外に簡単にラフなら作れるようになった。

しかし、丸太が想定していたより立派でビックリ！

30cmはあろうかという…私には、伐倒できないサイズ感…。

重機がないと絶対に持ち上げられなさそうだった…

九州は雨が多く、杉が立派。

植林は、どこでも伐期を迎えており、 立派な丸太が二束三文の安値で、木材チップにならんばかりの勢いである…ああ、もったいない！　こんな立派なのでもB材なのだとか。

ラフを済ませたら、

本スクライビングと言って、失敗できないカットのラインを、コンパスで引くんだが、これが難しい。

丸太の盾切りも出てきて、

馬の高さ

がチビの私には高すぎ、チェーンソーが肩まで上がってしまう…

チェーンソーの安全講習をすでに受けている身でよかった。知らないと言われるがままに危険なことを危険と知らないでしてしまう…

まるでクライミングのカットアンカー事件のようなことだ。 知っている人は登らないカットアンカーも、ペツルだ～とか言って登ってしまっていた山梨組の私たち…。いや、普通しらないでしょう…

今回はコンクリート型枠職人と出会った。彼によると、カットアンカーはダメだと思うそうです。

チェーンソーなどは、女性でも出来ないことはないが、体とチェーンソーがマッチしていない。

車でも私は軽を運転するほうが楽だが、大きなエクストレイルを運転していて、ちょっと大変なんだが、同じことだった。

ハスクと新ダイワが人気のようだったが、デカすぎて、使いづらかった。

伐採や玉切り用のロングなバーは、ここまでの径の丸太は使わないとすれば、イラナイんだよなぁ。

しかし、ログハウス作りは急ぐことでもなし、のんびり確実に休憩をはさみながら、ノッチを作ればよいと思えた。

なんせ　チェーンソーって10分以上連続作業してはいけないのである。その上、トータル作業時間の上限も一日２時間まで。　

バンバン全伐しているのが手作業だと白ろう病になってしまうだろう。

これが４段まで組まれる設計図だった。上は異なる仕様になるらしい。あんまり高くなると、ログを積むのが怖くなる、丸太のサイズ感…

文男さんという、夫の義理の叔父さんと同じ名前の方が、私のためにちょっと小さめのチェーンソーを持ってきてくれ、カービング用だったので、使いやすかった。

私には父がいない。だから、父親代わりに慕うことができる年配の男性は歓迎。

参考：

使い方　http://www.ffpri-kys.affrc.go.jp/kysmr/data/mr0009k3.htm

 

■市房山

帰りに、市房山に登ったら、上部の木の階段がすでに土壌浸食を受けて、ただの邪魔になっていた…

こんなのがあちこちに出来ていた

これじゃただの障害物競争のハードルみたいなもので、歩ける幅の登山道が歩けなくなっている…。

登山者は山側ではなく、谷側を歩くことになり、路肩が崩れそうだし…　木道の残骸があるほうが危険。

というので、ログハウスで知り合った行政の人に連絡したら、そうだね～となった。

ので、これだけでも、町の人と友達になった甲斐があった、というものだ。

よくヘリが出ているそうで、

登れるけど、降りれない…という登山道だった。

降りるのに、登りと同じだけかかるなんて。普通は降りるのは、登るのの半分くらいで済むものなんだよな…

こんなに根が露出してしまい、ずいぶんオーバーユーズされた山だった…。登山道、付け替えたほうがいいかもしれないレベル感である。

これだと登りにも手足がいるので、ロープがあちこちに出ていた。もちろんクライマーは使わないが。手足を使わないと登れない道は、背負い搬送はできない。となるとレスキューはもれなくヘリ。

地元の人によると、良くヘリが飛んでいるそうである…。気を付けてね、と言われたが、こんなのクライマーにとっては、なんてことないが…

80歳のおばあちゃんと小学生の孫とかだと、おばあちゃんは登れても降りれなくなるだろう。

コースタイムは４時間だったが、私の足で登山口からだと2:36だった。下りも同じくらい。悪くて、あんまり瞑想ちっくではない。とにかくホールドを捜して脳が忙しい。

めんどくさいノルマ消化の道だった（笑）。知らないと何も言えないしなぁ。

■　杉巨木がおススメ

おススメは下の下部は森林セラピー基地となっており、巨木がすごかった。

１本倒壊しているのがあり、台風14号だろうか？直径1.5ｍはありそうな巨木が風倒しており、こんな巨木ですら、倒れるとは…と思った。台風の時は地域の人はみんな避難していたしなぁ…。九州は台風ホント大変。山梨は全然、災害自体がないけど。

巨木の森は、一見の価値あり…　お宮の中なのだが、アメリカのレッドウッドみたいな、小人感覚に陥る。

天然杉を見て、枝ぶりが良く、人工の杉は枝打ちされてしまうが、本来は、枝打ちされるのは嫌なんだろうなぁと思った。なんか埴輪っぽい。

九州の原生林について　http://www.ffpri-kys.affrc.go.jp/kysmr/data/mr0009k3.htm

 雲海の下が人吉盆地で、なるほど、という眺め。人吉は、父方のおばあちゃんの出身地。

私は父方が上米良姓なので、おそらく出身はこのあたりの土地だろうと思うんだが…あんまり先祖は、田舎の封建的なところが好きではなかったのかもしれない。一族を上げて菊地へ移住したのだそうだから。父方は神主の家系である。西米良村に菊地一族の家系図をまとめた記念館があるらしく、機会があれば、行ってみても良いかもしれない。臣が付く名前だったら、親族かも。

山頂から西米良村方面。槙野口登山道のほうが、自然が多く残っていそうな気がする。山ひとつ遠いだけに誰も木道を入れるなどということはやっていなさそう…人も表参道ほどは入っていなさそう。

樹種が広葉樹なので、針葉樹よりは、より自然。原生林ではなく二次林とは思うが…

九州では山梨のように原生林は残っていないようだ。

天然林であれば、御の字。

友人にもらった栗。立派でビックリ！これは…。杉も立派だが、栗も立派。そういえば、竹林の竹も、竹とは思えない太さだった。九州は自然が豊かすぎて、しかも標高も低いし、天候リスク、気候リスクがないので、どうもリスクに甘い山屋が育つ土壌のようだ。雪もないしなぁ。屋外で遭難しても死なない。

これは天草で伐倒の練習をしたときの住んだものだが、私が思っているログハウスのログ直径はこんなもんで、これなら、自分で伐倒して、自分でログに組めそうです。このログハウスの持ち主は、20年前にこれを本を見て作ったそうだった…この本。

 https://amzn.to/3hunLSp

藤門さんの奥さんの宇土巻子さんに大学のころは憧れていた…なぜ北海道に移住されたのでしょう？　やっぱり封建的な土地がダメだったのかなぁ…

私も北海道に行ってみたいんだが…　ログハウス作るなら、

（立派さ）より、（手作りの喜び）を取りたい。これでも十分住めていましたしね！

去年から考えると

チェーンソーも使えるようになったし、ユンボも使えるようになったし、ログハウス作りの展望も大体開けたので…　だいぶ成長したなぁ！

マイ・ログハウス、は、ご縁しだいだが…

ティピは、すぐにも建てれて、楽しそうな選択肢である。おりしもキャンプブームだし。

スノーピークスのテント18万とかですよねぇ…ティピなら半定住もできるのに。

ティピの天井…　

インディアンは私にとってまだ文化的に新しい世界である。

大草原のローラみたいな気持ち…。

森の中にティピを立てて住んで…　

のんびりひと夏かけて、ログハウスビルドなど、できたらいいだろうなぁ！

ティピの良いところは、火が炊けることである。

十分広い、モノポールテントって感じ。ポールはいっぱいあるけどね！

九州なら気温もそう下がらないし。

ただし、雨の日と台風が難関だが…。

どこかに丁度よいWwoofer先はないだろうか？

お土産の写真…　昔、ロボットのソフト開発部にいるころ、「最近、入った男子は、エライ小さいなぁ」と言われていたんだよなぁ…　作業服で仕事していました…　女子力使う営業とかより、ユニセックスな仕事が好き。

 

慈悲の瞑想…強い自己肯定感を作る

■　慈悲の瞑想

このように唱えます。このように唱え始めてまだ３日目くらいですが…。

ーーーーーーーーーーーーー

     私が幸せでありますように
    私の悩み苦しみがなくなりますように
    私の願いごとが叶えられますように
    私に悟りの光が現れますように
    私が幸せでありますように（３回）

    私の親しい生命が幸せでありますように
    私の親しい生命の悩み苦しみがなくなりますように
    私の親しい生命の願いごとが叶えられますように
    私の親しい生命に悟りの光が現れますように
    私の親しい生命が幸せでありますように（３回）

    生きとし生けるものが幸せでありますように
    生きとし生けるものの悩み苦しみがなくなりますように
    生きとし生けるものの願いごとが叶えられますように
    生きとし生けるものに悟りの光が現れますように
    生きとし生けるものが幸せでありますように（３回）

    私の嫌いな生命が幸せでありますように
    私の嫌いな生命の悩み苦しみがなくなりますように
    私の嫌いな生命の願いごとが叶えられますように
    私の嫌いな生命に悟りの光が現れますように（３回）

    私を嫌っている生命が幸せでありますように
    私を嫌っている生命の悩み苦しみがなくなりますように
    私を嫌っている生命の願いごとが叶えられますように
    私を嫌っている生命に悟りの光が現れますように（３回）

    生きとし生けるものが幸せでありますように（３回）

ーーーーーーーーーー

 ■　40年モノのカットアンカーの対応法を知らない現代クライマー

九州に来て初めて知ったのがカットアンカーなのですが、10年クライミングをしていても、相方も知らなかった。

ということは、相方も

　気の毒な方

の一人です。九州で登っているクライマーも知らなかったのではないでしょうかね？

無邪気にバンバン落ちるクライミングをやっている様子を見る限り…。 

ということは、

　気の毒な方

かもしれません。

これが慈悲の瞑想の効果なのかどうかは分かりませんが…。とりいそぎ。

基本的に、余りクライミング界では、ボルトの知識、特にカットアンカーがボロいボルトであり、新品でも信用するには足りないボルトであることは、強調して教えられている知識ではないかもしれません。

 

カーラーマ経…自分が分かったことだけを頼りにする

https://j-theravada.net/dhamma/kougi/kougi-012/

これがわたしがクライミングで追及していたことだなぁと思いました。

その心は？

１）迷信や呪文に頼らない　→　例）山の神様が住んでいる　答え）山の神は民間信仰。遭難には自分で備える。

２）伝統　→　例）山岳会には伝統が残っている　答え）残っていない。会を頼らず自分で勉強する。

３）言い伝え　→　例）山が好きな人に悪い人はいない　答え）山にもいる

４）本　→　例）８環ビレイ　答え）現代では沢の登攀以外ではほぼ使われない、バックアップとして持っていくのみ

５）理性　→　例）白亜スラブ　グレードで行けば登れるはず　答え）実際は事情は複雑で、40年経過したカットアンカーで登る技術と整備された岩場で登る技術は別物

６）理論　→　例）確保理論　答え）確保理論通りにビレイをしても、ランナウトしている課題（例：インディアンサマー）では、後ろに走りデモしない限り落ちれば事故になる

７）見解　→　例）ランナウトすると燃える　答え）ランナウトに燃えない人間はいない、わざとランナウトするようになるのは、アドレナリン中毒

８）見解　→　例）一緒に登ろうぜ！と意気投合する　答え）その人が安全なビレイをするとは限らない　年配の人はビレイ危険なことが非常に多い

９）立派さ　→　例）高グレードを登るクライマー　答え）ビレイヤーとしては最悪の場合もある

10）肩書　→　例）高名なクライマー　答え）ビレイヤーとしては最悪の可能性もある

■　ビレイと登攀力は別物

別物だという理解がクライミング業界はあまりないかもしれないですね…。

また、ビレイ以外の周辺知識で、安全にかかわる部分が大変おろそかな現在…例えば

１）ロープの選択方法、使い方、ショックロードとの関係　

２）ランナウトの知識

３）パートナーへの信頼関係とクライマーの登攀能力の関係　ビレイが悪かったら登れない

４）体重差

５）傾斜ごとに違う登り方とリスクのとり方　

６）動的ムーブとリード登り

７）初心者のリードに向いた課題の選び方

８）登り方より、降り方が難しいこと

９）セルフレスキューと事故の考え方

１０）登って良い岩場の見極め方　ランニングや終了点の経年劣化

■　最近分かったこと

情で登ってはいけない。

私は、若くして亡くなったアスリートであまり成績は良くなかった弟をパートナーに投影していたので、必要以上に良く対応してしまっていました。

弟への無念の念…生きているうちに、よくしてやりたかった…は、クライミングで関係を構築するには不要どころか、逆に害悪です。

男性＝ヒロイズム。相手のナルシズムという火に油を注いでしまう結果になります。

大体、女性の注目や親切心という名の愛情は、どのクライマーにもそういう結果になる…必要以上に、かっこ付けるため、自分を大きく見せようとしてしまい、遭難や事故、ヒヤリハットにつながるようです。