2023/03/31

公開ルートの公共性 サバージュ・ババージュ 小鹿野のややこしそうな問題

 ■ やっぱり、初登者が勝手に特権振りかざしているだけでは?

サバージュ・ババージュの件読みました。 

https://www.taru-shiru.com/noboruahou/archives/futago1.html

どう読んでも、このルートをリーチの短い人に登らせないために、嫌がらせしただけって明らかなんですけど(笑)。

ホールドを埋めるって、チッピングと、ほぼ変わらない行為なんですが…。

それで、クライマーとして、あるいは開拓者として、あるいは人として尊敬を得たいと考えるほうが、まぁ無理があるよなぁ。

だって、チッピング=自然の岩の形状を変える=クライミング界最大のタブーですよねぇ?

ダークサイドに墜落、も程がある感じです。

■ なぜダークサイドに落ちてまで、人は自分のエゴにこだわるのか?

そこが私には全くわからないことなのです…。

大体、人工壁の課題だって、人によって、登り方違いますよね? 

だから何が何でも俺が登った通りに登らなければ、登ったことにならない!とこだわったところで、何の利益があるのでしょうか…

いや、自分より力量が下だと思われる人が、自分のルートを登ってしまうのが悔しくて受け入れられないのでしょうか?

どういう心理状態で、悪い評判を広げてまで自分の名を残したいのか?そこのところがよく分からない…

これは、クロスケオテ谷のときも思ったんでした…というのは、私は、フリーで超えたという初登記録がでたものと思っていたら…え?エイドの記録…?エイドで登ったら、それは名誉な記録ではなく、不名誉な記録になってしまいます…だって今、もう1980年代じゃないんですから… 2000年も超えてとうに20年たっているのですから…

ということで、小鹿野のこれも、自分の長所をPRしているつもりで、短所をPRしてしまっているということを地で行く事例のように思いますね。

■  未成熟な自己愛

この事件は開拓者の方は、おそらく、心が自己愛に飢えた方でしょう…。

岡田尊司 『愛着障害からの克服』より引用

 

どうも私の九州での観察結果によると、男性で自分の能力に挫折を感じた人は、そのことを受け入れられないまま、俺を認めてくれる由一の場、としてクライミングに依存し、そして、課題だけが俺の生きた証、と思うようです。課題に名を残したい、偉大なクライマーに数えられたい、末席でも座りたいってことなのかもしれません。

しかし、これでは、社会的逸脱のほうが記録に残ってしまいますね。

たぶん、察するに、俺を愛してくれーという心の叫びがこのような行為として発言した心理的背景だろうと思われますが…

今までは日本でも、

 仕方ないねーおじさんたち、可愛そうだから、そっとしておいてあげよう、

と許されてきたものが、昨今、時代の変化が加速し、もはや、LGBTとか日本でも普通の時代です。

セクハラもパワハラも、かつては許されていましたが、ホワイト化著しい日本でそのままの調子漕いてやっていると、社会的には、自ら自殺、と言えるかもしれません。

対立がある場合、大多数のクライマー男子は、日和見菌です。要するに、勢力がありそうな方につく、というだけのことです。というのは、クライマー人種って、考える能力に欠如した人が集まっていそうなんですよね、特に九州の場合。

小鹿野は大都市、東京近郊なので、マシな人種が集まっていることを祈るばかりですな。(←対岸の火事ですいません)

今回のサバージュ・ババージュの件は、その潮目を決める案件になるかもしれませんので、丁寧な経過報告文を書くのが被害者さんにはおすすめです。

公開された課題は、公共性があるのだ、ということを一般に認知させる最適な機会とするのが良策だと思います。

だいたい、公開された岩場でノーマットで登るとか、こっちでも、はぁ?なことが会ったりしました。そんな事しているから、アクセス問題で登る岩場がなくなっちゃうんですよ。

クライマーが落としていくのは、迷惑とうんこばかりでは…。 

アメリカでは、ボルトはもはや金を積んでも打たせてもらえないようですよ。

こちらは、業界の重鎮 菊地さんの意見です。あんまりにも当然のことが書いてあったのでびっくりした。

自然を登るのが外岩クライマーなのに、九州でも、岩に人工ホールドくっつけたり、木っ端をくっつけたりと、色々していますもんねぇ… いや、ホント。

みんなフリークライミング自体の定義自体を知らないんじゃないの?



腫れる足首で眠れない夜に

 ああ、足首が痛い…というので、ここ数日、毎晩のように3時定時で目が覚める…。

一応、痛み止めが含まれている湿布をして、横になるのだが、痛みが強くなると目が冷めちゃうみたいなんですよね…。

昼間は痛くないのですが、それは、気持ちが別の方向に向いているから、で、つまり痛みもそこまで強くは無いということです。

私はもともと明晰夢タイプなので、些細な刺激で目が冷めてしまうようです。

■ 悟君のこと…

高校生の頃、人生に行き詰まったことがありました。進学率100%のトップスクールにめでたく進学したのに、どう考えても、母子家庭の我が家には進学する費用がない…。

私は別の私学の高校には特待生で合格しており、そこに通っていれば、コストがかかるどころか、毎月3万円の収入があったはずでした。しかし、お嬢様学校に特待生で入るか?各中学からよりすぐりのエリートだけが集まる学校に行くか? 私の性格を考えると、後者でした。楽ちんな環境より、厳しい環境があっているタイプなんですよね。 

しかし、さすがにこの問題は…。周囲は、弁護士の家、医者の家、そんな家の子たちで、入学前から予備校ですでに高校一年分の知識は持っている状態だったわけです。そんなところに、塾行ったことありません、全て独学でこなしてきました…みたいな丸腰…武器無しで行てしまったわけですから…。

高1の頃、中学時代の友人に愚痴をこぼしたんですよね…。悟くんは、中学時代のエリート仲間でした。私たちは20人くらいまとまったグループで遊んでいて、女子は二人だけ。どの子供も成績上位者ばかりでしたが、中でも私は、サー君というもう一人、熊本高校に進んだ男子と双璧で、仲間をまとめる役でした。悟くんはサー君の相棒だったので、私としては遠慮している友人でした。人の親友を奪っていく気持ちはなかったからです。

悟くんの家は、お父さんが建築士だったので、日中家で働いていて、パソコンがありました。CADを導入していたからです。中学の頃、私はパソコンに興味があり、独学でBasic言語を学んだのですが…悟くんちで、ゲームの三国志をして基本所作を覚えた(笑)。

 向こうの家も、弟がおり、私の弟と同級生だし、おおらかな時代で、夕飯もらって帰ることもありました。母が「母子家庭、バカすんな!」とへの突っ張りで頑張っていても、娘の方はどこ吹く風で、スイスイと世の中を渡っていたってわけです(笑)。

このグループは基本、サッカーして遊ぶだけですが、雨降ってきてずぶ濡れになったときとか、ときおり、お母さんたちが出陣してくれて、娘のいないおばちゃんたちや娘が巣立った人は、なんか良くしてくれました。濡れちゃったついでで、お古の洋服くれたりとか。私なんて、え?全部もらっていいの?って、お古のパンツまでもらって帰っていました。

母はそういうのがプライド高すぎてできないタイプだったのかもしれません…。

ま、前置きはそこまでにして…

高校生1年のときに、私は500人しかいないのに487位という成績を数学で取りました。それまで学習塾に行ったことがなく、予習の習慣はなく、授業を集中して聞くだけでこなしてきた勉強。熊本高校では、授業は、「11ページ、はい、見れば分かる」という具合に進んでいき、解説はないですね…さすが熊本高校。先生たちは、生徒が予習してきたかどうかのチェック役です。

平たく言えば、最初の挫折なのですが、これは良かったのです。これで、大学でも、仕事でも、予習の習慣がつき、仕事の場は、ただのプレゼンの場、となったのでしたから。

しかし、当時は、そんな悠長なことを言っているゆとりはなく、自分が最後尾だということは分かるわけですので、焦って勉強しないと行けません。一方、母は私に家事期待でいっぱい。 妹と弟は、鯉が口を開けて餌を待つみたいに、パクパクと口を開けている。

熊本高校は進学率100%。バイト禁止。

こんな状況、あなたなら、どう解決します?

高校生の私には、解決案が浮かばなかったんですね…それで鬱になりました。

当時、私は、サーくんや悟くんのほうが女性の友達より親しかったので、悟くんに相談したら… 帰ってきた言葉が

「あなたは絶対に大学に行かなくてはならない人材だ。お金がないなら僕が働いて大学に行かせてあげる」

というものでした。悟くんだって、地元のエリート校済々黌に通っていました。進路は九州大学建築科です。

だから、彼だって、誰かの犠牲に人生を棒に振って良い人ではない。いや、エリートではなくても、誰かの犠牲になって良い人生があるはずがない。それでも、そんな人がこんなことを言ってくれたのです。

この言葉で私は救われ、悟くんを働かせるわけには行かない、と、バイト禁止をもろともせず、朝のパン屋でアルバイトを始めたわけでした。

このバイトは、残り物のパンがもらえるので、ランチ代節約になり、しかも友人たちに分け与える分までついでにもらえて、良いバイト先でした。飢えている高校生相手に、目の前の賞味期限切れパンを持って帰るな、なんて人は世の中いませんでした…まだ。

なので、私はセブンイレブンなどのコンビニが食品を処分する、っていう方針は大嫌いで、それがコンビニを使いたくない筆頭の理由です。ちゃんと経験の裏付けがあります。

なんで困っている人に余り物を分け与えることが市場原理に反する、なんて言うわけ?市場原理より、ヒューマニティでしょう。

さて… その言葉で救われた私ですが…

ここ数年のクライミングで、パートナーの言動で、

  この人と登るのはちょっと…

と思う事がありました。

それは、

「(成人してから作ってやれなかったから)今、あなたにご飯を作ってやれるのが私の幸せ」と親に言われた、と嬉しそうに私に話してくれたからでした。

 それで、”俺って愛されてる~”と、自己肯定感が上がりまくっていた。

しかし… 私だったら、高校生当時ですら、全く逆の発想です。

 もう高齢の親に自分が面倒をかけてはいけない

と考えるのです。

この言葉で、そうか、だから、白亜スラブのあんな失敗した登攀で自信つけちゃうんだ…とピン!ときました。

世の中の人って、ものすごいポジティブシンキング、なんですね… ある意味。

これ、親に言ってもらっていた人、40代後半です。親が年老いて、実家に帰るのはありと思うのですが、実家に帰ると言っても、それは、親の近くで暮らすという意味だと私は思っており、まさか親の家に世話になる、という意味とは知りませんでした…。え?!です。

大人になる、自立をする、っていうのは、経済的な意味だけではなく、精神的な意味合いを含めて、大人にならなければ、何の意味もありません。

日本では、男女の賃金格差は大きいですので、一般男性にとって、毎日会社に行って経済的に自活しているというのは、ただレールに乗っているだけの結果で、別に、自立した大人であるということにはなりません。

が、その経済的自立ですら、さっさと手放せる程度の自立なのです。

大人になるということは、自分の生活を自分で作って行くということ。つまり、自分の生活スタイルがあるということです。自分のスタイルがあれば、いくら親でも一緒に暮らすのは…となります。もちろん、双方が歩み寄って、互いに協力していく、というのでは問題はないのですが。

しかし、上記のセリフからうかがえることは、結局、親の言うままに食べている、って話でした。

そうか~、だから、与えても与えても、相手は与えられている、って事実がつかめない、んですね。

だから、どんどん、もっとくれ、もっとくれ、になっていく…。もらうことが当然になっていくわけです。それによって、俺、愛されてる~となるわけですから。

たしかに俺愛されており、かつて高校生だった私も悟くんに愛されていたわけですが、誰かが愛によって差し出してくれた自己犠牲に、そのまま寄りかかって良い、というわけではないでしょう。

親には親の人生があります。親が子供のために自己犠牲すると決めたのは、親の決断ですが、それも普通は18歳、おそくとも大学卒業頃で終わりです。そうでなければ、親がかわいそうですよね。

私は6才で、母が子供のために離婚を踏みとどまるべきか考えていたときにも、わたしたち子供のことより、母親自身の幸福を優先してほしいと思っていました。

私が6歳で考えたことが、40代後半になっても考えられない…ということは、もうこれは発達の差、ではなく、決定的に人生で何を重要視するか?という価値観の差、だということです。

発達精神医学では、未熟な自己愛には、

 根拠のない万能感

がある、と言われています。子供がある時一人でどこかに行ってしまって迷子になる、っていうのは、この根拠ない万能感のためです。

若い男性…たとえば、映画『アルピニスト』のマークアンドレは、この万能感のために、際どいフリーソロをして、そのまま帰ってこない人になって、映画に留められています。心理学的には成熟の真反対で、未成熟のまま山で死んだというだけです。反省の対象であって、あこがれの対象ではないですね。 山は降りるほうが難しいのだ、ということを誰も教えてやらなかったのでしょうか?

 母に愛されているという根拠だけで万能感

を持つことができてしまったら、ご飯だけ食べさせてもらえば、どんなに根拠のないことでも自信たっぷりに、「敗退無しで!」と言ってしまいます。

そんなのに付き合っていたら、こちらが先に死んでしまいます…

敗退はきちんと想定して、それでも山に挑まれ、万策尽きたときに、ここぞ!というときだけ賭けに出るのが、本当の山屋です。

根拠のある自信をもちましょう。




2023/03/29

今日の衝撃… GenerativeAI、ミートガイ、腫れる足

■ラム
 
めちゃうま!

ミートガイの冷凍肉ですが、理学療法士の先生に高すぎて買えないと言われました…。いや、クオリティからすると安いくらいなんだけどなぁ…。
 
グラスフェッドビーフってどこで買おうかなぁと思っていたら、栄養チャンネル信長で紹介されていたので、お試しセットで、買いました。
 
今日はエノテカのワインも来て(アマゾン)、ほっこりできた。
 
■ 足
 
足は、腫れてます…。装具の底板が外れて、強度が上がるたびに腫れる法則なのかもしれない。
 
これで痛みがぶり返すのは、二度目なので。とりあえず、足の筋トレグッズ見たいな物を買ってきました。筋力低下が、むくみとなり、むくみが痛みの原因なようなので。
 
基本的に、装具がしょぼいっていうのが主たる問題のような気がするんですがねぇ… 10万円の割には。なんせインソールがゼロで、衝撃が強すぎます。

■ 食事
 
歩いては買い物にいけずに不便にしているので、ワタミのお弁当を取り始めたら、こんな葉書が来た。

うーむ。ワタミはブラックかと思っていたがすごい。

■ シリコンバレーじゃなくても、AIで何でも作る時代

シリコンバレー情報で、昨日セミナーで、AIの話を聞いたら、海外の話、と悠長に構えていいわけでないことが、今日、日本の会社のセミナーに出てわかった。

今のうちに使いこなせるようになっておかないとやばい。死活問題です。

これはAIが生成した画像だが、本物の画像と違いがわかる人が要るとは思えない。

プロンプトの作り方が肝。

■ 画像生成AI

これは私が作ってみた画像。すごいですね。https://openai.com/product/dall-e-2

これを発見したのが3月3日ですが、一ヶ月で、3年ほど進化してしまったそうです。

AIの進化速度が早すぎて、イーロン・マスクが警告文をだしているくらい。

メールの返信文章などを自力で書いていたらダメみたいです。

もちろん、ブログ記事も自分で書く時代は終わりだそうですよ。

っていうか、書くのが楽しいから書くのに、機会にやらせたらつまらないとは思うけど、一般に他の人は、書くの、苦痛なんですね。

もっと真剣にAIを使える女にならないといけないらしい。


【開拓者向け情報】ボルトルートでも終了点だけ打つという戦略

 ■ 終了点だけ打つ

昨日、中島さんに、ボルト提供を打診したら、

  終了点だけ打っているから大丈夫

って返事だった。

 さすが、考える人は考えているな

と思った。

■ へたくそな若者クライマー

米澤さんがクラックの横にボルトを打ったのは、

 最近の九大山岳部クライマーはカムをきちんとセットできないため

だった。

  自分がクラックを登るときに要るから…じゃない。

つまり、若い人のスキル低下のため。

たぶん、九州の終了点が奇天烈なのも、若い人の知性のレベル低下で、ヌンチャク2個終了点に使う程度の常識すら、きちんと実践できないので、諦めて、人工壁スタイルにしているだけ。

結局は、若い人の側に寄り添った結果なのである。

■ 人は必ず老いる

人は必ず老いる。老いれば、登れなくなる。

登れなくなれば、昔余裕で登った課題も、余裕ではなくなる。

余裕でなくなれば、ボルトが欲しくなる。

ボルトが欲しくなれば、ミニマムボルトの原則は守れない。

ミニマムボルトの原則が守れなければ、クライミングとしては堕落の道を歩んだことになる。

さて、どうする?

■ 終了点だけ打つ、という解決策

若い人が、画家の絵をなぞっているだけの、模写のようなクライミングで満足しているのは、それしか知らないためである。

つまり、ボルトを追いかけるクライミング。

ボルトを追いかけさせないためには?

つまり、ボルトがなければ良い。

しかし、ここがルートであるということは示したい。

   結論: 終了点だけを打つ

これは、クラックと同じスタイルである。

■ 年配のクライマーはトラッドクライミングの教え方を知らない

私の師匠の青木さんが、背の低い私が自分のカムのセットが必要だということが分かっていなかったように、 

一般的な年配のクライマーは、トラッドクライミングの正しい教え方、は知らない。

自分だって教わったことがないからだ。

トップロープクリーンで登れた後は、疑似リードが必要だ、という認識すら無い。

一言、「俺は疑似リードが嫌いだ」

で終わりで、ボルトの間隔というものが、個人差の産物、であるという認知をする能力やそのための経験をする機会、そのものがないためだ。

そりゃそうだ。

人のカムで登った経験が皆無の人ばかりなのである。老年期になっても登っているクライマーというものは。

つまり、俺のクライミングの歌、は奏でて来たが、人のクライミングの歌を聞いたことは無い。

例えば、ギリギリボーイズの伊藤仰二さんが、いつも師匠とふたりで登っているアイスクライミングに来たことがあったが、彼と比べればいくら、アイス歴40年の師匠でも、どう考えても技術は伊藤さんが上だろうと思うが…

それでも、伊藤さんが、師匠の打ったスクリューを活かして登ってくれた。つまり、年配者を立て、譲ってくれていた。 

日本では、若年者は年配を立ててくれるもの、なのである。 

伊藤さんのほうが師匠より実力が上だからやってあげることができるが、まだリードクライマーとして修行中の私には適切ではない。私には私の安全が第一なスクリュー配置が必要だからだ。

そこは、どうあがいても、年配のクライマーには理解できない。人のスクリューで登るほうが、簡単だと思っているからだ。 そりゃ打つ手間は省けるかもしれないが、リスクが少ないか?どうか?は身長による。

■ ベテランクライマーはフリークライミングのことは知らない

つまり、ベテランというのは、人の作ったルートを登って、この人のクライミングの歌はいい歌だなぁ…と、実感するようなクライミングのレベルまで行っていない。

現代のクライミングの歌は、岩の場合、おおよそ5.12以上で奏でられるためである。もちろん、それ以下でも良い歌はある。例えば、屋根岩2峰などは色々なスタイルの歌が聞けるルートとして有名だ。

が、そんなの、若いときの右も左もわからない頃にすっかり登っちゃって楽しかったーで終わりで、後は自分の歌を奏でる方しか興味がない。

俺は俺の好きに登るぞーというのが誰だって、定年後は楽しいわけである。

一方で、歳を取っているから、もう難しいのは登れない。

例えば、湯川だったら、10cのフィンガーなんて、出だしからずっとテンションで、普段スイスイとインスボンをリードしていたからって、トップロープ以外、無理なんである。

なんなら、女性の方が指が細いから、君、これ、いけるんじゃないの?くらいな勢い。

最初の師匠の鈴木さんなんて、トップロープを自分に将来貼ってくれる人を育てていると公言していたくらいである。ずっと登り続けるには、そうする必要があるからだ。

クライマーなんてそんなもの、現実主義者なのだ。

当然、年を取れば誰だって過去よりは登れなくなる。

■ 岩を汚すよりは

とはいえ、岩場の開拓をするような、効率の悪いことに時間を費やせる、ゆとりがある人が昨今いない。

世の中の労働市場は、労働力不足であえいでいる。

というので、定年退職後の人の出番となる。

日本の岩場は、開拓されつくされたというのが、一般的な見方だ。

残っているルート=落ち穂拾い。

歩く手間をかけて丹念に探せば、いいのだが、その時間がないとなると、既存ルートの隣にもう一本作ろうということになり、ルートの人口密度が濃くなる。

すると、分かりづらくなる。

それだけでなく、限定、とか付けないといけなくなる。

は?って感じになる。ここ人工壁かよ!ってことだ。

一方、到達までに6時間かかる岩場では、誰も遊びに来てくれない。例:前穂北尾根

というので、このような状況下で一番良い解決策は

 岩場を見つける 

 初発見者権限として岩場に発見目印をつける (=終了点)

 終了点だけ打つ

という手だというのは納得した。

■ 適正ボルトの時代変化

そもそも、適正ボルト間隔は、昔は、身長が日本の平均男性の160cm前後に合わさっていたと思われる。

しかも、エイドのルートだと、特別のっぽだった人が、お前がいけ!と言われて登っていたわけで更に遠くなっており、170cm以上の人に合わさっている。

ところが、現代では、子供も登る、女性も登る。 

それでは、現代では、ボルト間隔が遠すぎる。

つまり、140cm前後から必要になる。 

しかし、140cmの人向けの間隔でボルトを打ったら?

人に親切にしたのに、俺がチキン呼ばわりされる。

それは受け入れがたい。

もしくは、ミニマムボルトの原則に反しているだの、との批判を受ける。

そもそも、そんなにミニマムボルトがいいなら、ボルトが嫌な人は、すっ飛ばして、フリーソロしてくれよ、と思うが、そういえば、喧嘩腰になる。のも、得策ではない。

めんどくさいことをすべて避けるには?

 終了点だけ打つ

これで解決なわけである。

米澤さんは、終了点は打っていたが、全然使っていなかった。立ち木にぶら下がって開拓しているから、自分の継続トレーニングには、その立ち木で別に十分だからだ。

だから、私もそのようにしている。ボルトはいらない。

なんせボルトのほうがカットアンカーだから信用ならない。別に、立ち木で懸垂で降りれるからいいのである。

しかし、ボルトがないと

 そこがルートだ

ということが示せない、ということなのだ。

これは、この終了点がないとルートだと認識できない人のために完全なる募金、なのです。

なんせ自分にはいらないわけですから…

大したクライマーでもないとすでに明らかになっている年齢の人が、開拓者のエゴを主張して、限られた岩場資源を独り占めしようとせず、後世の

 ちゃんと現代レベルで登れる人に、国際レベルでの適正ボルト

を打ってもらうほうがいいに決まっている。 

その時のために若い人はせっせと海外の岩場にでて、

  国際グレードのグレード感の吸収

に勤めましょう。

海外旅行は大変疲れます。海外で移民として暮らすのも、若いときは、言葉もあっという間に覚え、楽勝です。

が、年をとると、言語・文化の吸収能力が下がっているので疲れます。

若ければ若いほどいいわけなので、海外でできるだけ多くの岩場に触れましょう。

そして、その知見を成熟してから、日本の岩場に持ち込みましょう。

これで世代間連携はバッチリです!

《関連記事》

クライマー別カム配置の考察

https://allnevery.blogspot.com/2019/08/blog-post_68.html 

トラッドのリード習得法

https://allnevery.blogspot.com/2023/01/blog-post_11.html

ロープの伸びが配慮されていないボルト配置 → エイドルートなのでしょう

https://allnevery.blogspot.com/2022/01/blog-post_4.html

ラオスのメモ

https://allnevery.blogspot.com/2016/11/memo.html

4 Year Summary...Kyushu Climbing Situation page 7 final

 Under construction-------------

■ Grading should be appropriate, though...

On the other hand, the fact that grading is hard is understandable to some extent, given the circumstances in which pioneers are placed.

Let's say you are the best climber in a group. You have pioneered a route, but no one can climb it again except you.

If the route is harder than that, he will go up a grade, if it is easier, he will go down a grade...because that is the only reference he has.

If someone like me, who is just barely in the teens, and 5.9 is not too bad, I can put 5.10c if it's where I would fall. I can put it that way. Or, how many tries did it take to redpoint? By counting the number of tries, you can give a grade. At my level, redpointing 10c in 2 or 3 tries is my current skill, so I can figure out the grade by the number of flights it took me to redpoint.

However, it is almost impossible to get a wealth of test climbers in pioneering, so it would be nice if the grades were properly aligned from easiest to hardest within a single crag....

The problem is the runout.

Free climbing is a climbing sport where you can fall anywhere and not die, so the problem is not the grade but the runout. In other words, it is a runout where you are not allowed to fall. Especially, the easiest problem at the crag.

First-timers, after all, tend to climb the easiest problems. If the problem is marked as 5.9, even if it is 10c, and you can fall down anywhere, you just say, "Oh, that was difficult," and that's the end of it.

However, if the task is made in such a way that you cannot fall, you are forced into a corner, and you have no choice but to fall and get seriously injured. This is the case of the Indian Face at Ya-ya. On the first day we went there, we met a person who had broken his lumbar vertebrae in a ground fall.

I am sorry to hear that, but it appears that the accident report was not carried in the Freefan. If information about the accident is not posted anywhere, the fact that the accident occurred at the crag will remain unknown.

Of course, if this was an alpine climber, he would have thought, "If I fall here, I'm in trouble! As soon as they realize that they are in trouble, they can take out their aids, such as skyhooks, and climb down to safety. Of course not. No one has ever heard of a skyhook....

Of course, no one would take a skyhook to a slope where they are not going to compete.

So, for those who only do normal free climbing, you should honestly put an "R" on any run-out or non-fallable task.

Free climbers are usually people who think they are climbing a safe route based on their trust in the bolt when climbing a sport route, or bolted route.

Again, they are being deceived by the route.

In the first place, free-climbing education does not teach you to use aid techniques to get out of an emergency situation.

Of course, they don't teach you that if you fall, the belayer will run behind you.

Not even alpine climbers know that these days. There are no alpine rock routes where you can belay running backwards.

Only ice climbers know that. Fortunately, I come from an ice climbing background.

Screws are expensive in ice climbing: 10,000 yen per screw. The momentum and the number of fulcrums are limited, so the belayer below has to take as many of them as possible to save money, and the belayer below has to say, "Hey, let's get them already... This means I have to run far back..." Of course, the belayer was lighter.

Of course, if the belayer was lighter, it would be pointless to run backward, because if he fell, he would be pulled forward. In fact, if the climber is pulled forward and crashes into the ice, the belayer may die and the climber who fell may be saved by the cushion of snow.

In Kyushu, old climbers may not understand the meaning of the word "runabout" itself.

https://allnevery.blogspot.com/2022/10/blog-post_28.html

Summary

So, to sum up,

Alpine routes = to design routes where you remove the bolts and make your own fulcrums.

Free climbing routes = solving the runout problem and designing free climbing routes where the original bolts can be trusted.

Kyushu has two issues to solve.

The other is to improve topo. It should have a top-rope assignment, R, X, etc. The same goes for the date of installation of the bolt and the name of the builder. Was the route started by an aide? Is it a ground-up pioneer? is also a very important context.

In view of the state of climbing today, the aging of the population has, in essence, made climbing lazy... For alpine climbers, it's free and comfortable climbing if you don't have to make your own fulcrums.

If not laziness, then, in a good way, it was ignorance to try to rebolt a cut anchor to a cut anchor in modern times, not knowing that a cut anchor is not a proper bolt in modern times... but anyway, that's 40 years, and it's not a respectable act, is it? Is it a respectable act? Is it a respectable act? The answer is obvious. No matter how remote Kyushu is, it is probably only 10 years behind the rest of the world, and that excuse is acceptable.

The fact that a free climbing route does not follow the logic of free climbing is also basically just a replacement for an aid, or a botched bolt position, rather than a well-meaning ground-up challenge.

I have to say that I would be happy to have a 5.9 to climb after I can climb 5.11. It is a route that I have always wanted to climb. It is a route that I have always wanted to climb. But it needs a historical background. And it needs to be widely recognized as such a route, and it needs to be mentioned in the topo. After all, the topo is there to convey context.

In Kyushu, we are paying the price of the previous generation...even in the 2000s, future generations have had to endure cut anchor bolts that have long since been retired in Honshu, free climbing routes where the bolts are unreliable...and so on.

In this case, it is not the most elite competition climbers who are getting an elite education these days, starting before the age of 10, who are in danger. They can get new bolts (in Goujon) to climb. The budget for this comes from the government.

On the other hand, the average civilian climber, who has been exposed to climbing as a hobby in a non-climbing gym, does not have a coach. They have no mentors. There are no climbing gym managers, no climbing guides, and no climbing seminars in Kyushu.

Even if a climbing course were to be held, the knowledge would not be passed on for fear of local protests.

By the way, a senior member of the Misaka Alpine Club was transferred to Kyushu, and he quit climbing as soon as he could.... That was the reason.

So, this is the end of my four years of climbing.

I am glad that I don't have to climb anymore.

4 Year Summary...Kyushu Climbing Situation page 6

 under construction--------------------


■ Cam distrust

There is also a curious perversion. It is cam distrust. Is this not also due to old values that have not been updated?

If I tell people that I climb trad with cams, they respond with something like, "You're a daredevil!" while they are told to fall off and fall off 40-year-old rotten cut anchors (e.g., Mt. Ohe).

Would you rather casually fall on a 40 year old rotten bolt that no one knows who hammered it, and have it fall out and ground fall, or have a cam that you set fall out and ground fall?

Maybe it's a matter of taste in this area, but I'd still be more comfortable with it falling on the cam I set.

By the way, I have fallen on my own cam, but I have yet to have it fall out.

■ Other

Various other questionable events have occurred...

Happened recently. A climber who can only climb 3rd class at an open crag wants to climb 2 steps with no mats!

How cute,

A bolt in spite of a crack.

Or a bolt in a crack, or an artificial hold in an outcrop...

One climber belayed two climbers' leads.

Or, "I'm being belayed on a fulcrum, but the person belaying me doesn't even know it!

I'm short, and I'm going to train you with aids....

The last one is almost a death sentence.

The old aide route is probably over 40 years old when they bolted...because it was pre-freeing. In other words, ragged. And no matter how many short people are placed on the top step of the stapes, they can't reach what they can't reach.

This is something they don't seem to understand, even if they are intelligent enough to teach at Kyushu University...

Aide is that the degree of difficulty is always the distance. Anyone can easily find out what is in the grades of A1, A2, A3, and so on, if they look into the contents of the grades. And they are willing to do it to the little rookie. Can't you see that this is the same as saying, "I'll kill you, with pleasure"? Even an A-zero in free play can be done if you can reach it, but not if you can't.

I was also told that I could take a climber who belayed two climbers by himself while I was leading another climber. If you have to climb with such a ton of belaying, you shouldn't climb. I can understand if two climbers belay one climber, but one climber belaying two climbers is not possible in lead climbing. Even when raising the second climber, it is the second climber, and even if the second climber falls on a slack rope, he/she will not be seriously injured.

Taking all of the above into consideration, it was our side that was "taking them there".
So, in Kyushu, there are many people whose understanding is inverted...perverted...and their inversion of understanding is often to the extent that they would notice something strange if they thought about it in a normal, serious, and logical way.

In short, they are not thinking about it, but are just following the atmosphere around them, expecting that if they follow him, they will be taught for free because he is a climber of yesteryear....

In other words, there is a strong sense that the newcomers are completely fooled by the atmosphere.

They don't have the skills, they can't teach, so they look up to those who can't teach them...those who can't verbalize...and they go climbing, unaware that they are being unfairly patronized by those who are taking them along. The person who is taking you climbing has no skills and is literally risking his/her life, so the feeling is not a lie.

On the other hand, the newcomers are being sold something for which they have no gratitude and for which they have to pay a lot of money.

Because of this situation, it is better not to join a mountaineering club. If you join, you might be killed. However, there is no organization that teaches climbing properly, and you don't hear of anyone like Mr. Sugino, who is a good climbing guide.

It is rather the association that is spreading wrong techniques such as belaying two climbers by oneself, grip belaying in spite of ATC, belaying a lead climber on a fulcrum, and so on.

...but those who want to learn the techniques from now on have nowhere to go.

4 Year Summary...Kyushu Climbing Situation page 5

under construction--------------

 ■ 5.10s are dangerous.

By alpine logic, the rate at which free climbing routes are being built is mostly on beginner routes in the 5.9 to 5.10s. (Probably because many of the original alpine climbers cannot climb high difficulty free routes at all.)

Also, many of the aid routes are replacement routes.

The most miserable is the 10c route on Happo-dake, which was rebolted every other meter.

Since the routes are not rebolted by climbers who are capable of climbing today's standard climbing grades, they stop to think about replacing old bolts, which is a waste of rock.

When they proudly unveiled the challenge, I couldn't believe my eyes and wondered if they knew what they were doing. It was because they went with the so-called mountaineering group. They were so confident that I couldn't say anything.

The biggest difference between alpine and free climbing routes

Is it ground up or rappel down? Of course. Of course. Free climbing has rappels and ground-ups, but alpine climbing has only ground-ups.

What does this show up in? It is the way to seize the clipping opportunity.

Alpine climbers base themselves on ridge climbing. The base of the slope is basically a slope where you can't fall, but there are places where you can fall.

For example, a scaffold board placed at a height of 30 meters is dangerous, but not if it is placed at a height of 1 meter. Therefore, it is not so much the degree of difficulty but the degree of danger that is the problem, and the mistake beginners tend to make is to climb higher and higher without taking a fulcrum because it is easy in alpine climbing. In other words, runabouts.

On my first alpine ice route, from Jogosawa to the summit of Mt. Iōdake (硫黄岳), I went over a big waterfall at the crux of the route without a rope. However, it was only that one time, and it was my first time and I was a very beginner.

On alpine routes, there are usually no fulcrums except at the danger points, i.e., before the crux. In other words, where there is a governor, you don't take it because you are climbing comfortably. Of course, while the ground is close, it is the same as free climbing. (In climbing, the lower the height, the more dangerous. (In climbing, the lower the height, the more dangerous, because you can fall to the ground.)

Free climbing, on the other hand, is climbing on a slope that is absolutely unclimbable without a rope in the first place.

Therefore, free climbing grades start with a 5, like 5.XX, because 3rd and 4th grades do not require a rope.

So in free climbing, the assumption is that you can fall anywhere. That's where alpine people can't switch.... They don't fall in such a place, so they think it's not worth it.

The conversion table that says a 50-meter ascent takes one for 3rd class, two for 4th class, and three for 5.xx is a way of thinking that does not reflect the current state of the rock at all. No matter what grade you are, if you are about to die if you fall, you do one before the crux. If it's a cam, it's two, just in case.

On the other hand, in free climbing starting from 5th grade, where the assumption is that you can fall anywhere, the premise of free climbing is that a governor is a clipping opportunity. However, in most of the routes where the gabba is a clipping opportunity, it is a skip bolt.

As a result, it is a free climbing route, but for some reason, it is not allowed to fall down.

Take, for example, Indian Summer in Yonagaya. I saw a climber who crashed on the third pin and broke his lumbar vertebrae on the first day because the second and third pins were run-outs.

Or, for example, the eight-sided Cappuccino 5.9.

I'm an old lady climber and I was able to climb it onsite against a total stranger belayer (i.e. someone I still don't trust), so I guess 5.9 is fine... but what the heck! I thought.

Yesterday, I heard that they only allow newcomers to climb top rope. So they should have put "top-rope assignment" in the topo.

If it was a 5.9 in the best part of the crag, a newcomer to the crag would usually be happy to climb it.

As an aside, when I was climbing, there was a group of men who work as store girls for a famous outdoor wear manufacturer that everyone knows, but they couldn't climb the same 5.9, even young boys, at all, and it looked like there was nothing but TR!

Well, I had to face some unexpected and terrible situations because of the quality of the fulcrums, which are 40 years old, and the quality of the challenges, which are made according to the alpine logic.

No, it's more accurate to say that I didn't have anything but bad experiences.

My heart was frayed and I became depressed....

In Kyushu, they seemed to expect further administrative reform from me. I wish local climbers would reform themselves before outsiders point such things out to them. The fact of the matter is that we did not fix the problem until outsiders and strangers pointed it out to us.

4 Year Summary...Kyushu Climbing Situation page 4

Outrageous climbing techniques are rampant!

Not just with climbing anchors...I had to experience wrong techniques with a wrong understandings of climbing so many times since I came to Kyusyu. 

bad belay

 

I was almost killed. 

Before I came to Fukuoka, those were only rumors and I was climbing with safe climbers. Here in Fukuoka, bad climbers are the majority, and good climbers are so few.

The first outrageous experience, I saw was a ground fall on a route called "Indian Face 5.10b ", in a Azumaya crag. I saw a climber fall, and the route was bad. It runout in the second and third bolts. Belay was proper and he was standing so close to the wall, but the fallen climber still get hurt and carried away to a hospital, later I heard that his back born was broken.

It is not unusual for local crags to have "harder than usual grade". But runouts are not just "hard", it is very "dangerous". In free climbing's rule, it should be given X or at least R in the guide book. But older crags are developed by old climbers so this rule is usually ignored.

Unlike a slab runabout, which is a continuation of a UIAA grade of 3rd or 4th, that runout was on a face route...that is, at least grade 5th, a decimal grade, a route that starts at least 5.xx. In this case runout means that if you fall, you will hit to the ground, as you know.

So R or X should be attached to let a climber know the risk, in free climbing. 

But it is not written in the guide book since is not the customary practice in alpine climbing.

Next outrageous was Hyugami crag. It was a 5.9 most popular route... but it asks a climber to do a 5.10b kind of move.... dishonest. 

It is not unusual to have a harder grade at a crag in a rural area, because people does not know any better.

The problem is that they consider the situation is amusing. Which is disrespectful of climber's life. They intend to make him/her fall.

If the climb requires 5.10b kind of move, then it is 5.10b problem. The grade is cheating the climbers and the local developer seemed to favor the situation so they can privately use the crag.  So the intention was to kick new people out.

Normally, 5.9 is considered the introductory grade for a new person who knows nothing about the crag. So if 5.9 requires  a 10b move then, of course he/she would fall. 

In other words, it is intended to make the climber fall.

Still, if it were an artificial wall, it would be okay, since it is natural to climb until you fall off. But on a outdoor rock? Of course, the part of the route that required 10b move was near the top, so it did not seem to be a big problem even if the climber fell, it won't reach to the ground, but....

This idea of tricking and dropping seemed to be the mainstream idea at this crag, which made me feel uneasy. Moreover, the bolts and anchor was the bizarre (see a page before).
 

The climbing industry is not exactly the safest industry but this is all taken wrong.  In other words, it is the crag where it's basic ideas are so childish.

Well, I was able to climb the problem onsight, so 5.9 was appropriate. After all, it is the easiest one there. It might be 5.8 in Yamanashi.

Incidentally, I took a young American who was a navy soldier in Sasebo Nagasaki, Japan, who were a Yosemite-trained climber, but he could not climb it.
 

I climbed the next difficult one (5.10a) after this one, which I was also able to on-sight.

Later, there were a young male climbed who climbed this with such a pretentious manner as if he was the most brave man of the world,  but that was the route even "I" was able to on-sight.  You know, I was not a good climber, I never intended to be. So his  "I'm so cool, aren't I?" kind of attitude seemed so vain. 

In Kyushu, the standard is probably out-dated. It's already been about 20 years since 5.12 red point is considered intermediate skill, not advanced, you know?
 

I am the woman who has been climbing since she was 43 years old, and it was my 3rd year of free climbing training, and even I could on-sight it. 

Is that a level for a young man to flutter? I don't think so!

Considering the level of climbing today, I should say,  from 5.13 and above is the grade you can be a kind of proud of.  

In Kyushu, young man get proud too soon... it is only beginners level.

My climbing mentor Aoki, who leads Insubone Korea with great ease (and with an injured leg), always says "I can't climb at all," and it was sometimes annoying to comfort him. But considering the level of climbing today, I think he is more normal.

A normal young man should be able to climb at least 5.12 if he takes it seriously. After all, I, with a 17kg grip and a height of 152cm, can see 5.11. 

So 5.11 for a man is nothing to brag about. In fact, none of the male climbers I climbed with on Mt. Ogawayama, brags on 5.11.

The basic concept of "death wishing is cool" seems to be the basis of Kyushu climbing , and it seemed childish. Generally speaking, it is so teenager like, childish. In Yamanashi, I did not meet such a person.

After that, I was exposed to some old alpine traditions... like the fixed belay to a lead climber, for example... 

Basically, I thought people didn't really understand the difference between free climbing and alpine climbing. 

People who have been taught only alpine climbing techniques are developing the crag for free climbing, so the two different kind of climbing gets confused and the young climbers are so innocently taking it for granted. In fact, I think that even alpine climbing techniques are not taught properly either.

For example, in Kyushu, the climber does not learn to climb with cams and natural protection. They only know bolted routes.

In alpine climbing, which is done in the mountains, there is NO preset protection, ofcourse.  

But in Kyushu, this is not the case at all. Most climbers don't have the skills to use cams, nor pitons. They don't seem to think that they need to acquire how to make protections.

They only have bolted route skills with the protection already preset, but they are willing to go to the mainland Japan's alpine routes(such as northern alps or such... called classical routes) .  The route sometimes have anchors and slings that somebody before left there, but using them is considered nono.  That would be suicidal. That's the kind of thing you are taught on your first day of climbing.

After all, there is no proper alpine routes, or practice routes in Kyushu, that is, a route to climb without preset protection. 

So climber does not know that using left-over slings and anchor is dangiours.
 

For example, I have gone to a route called " Hakua Slab" in Mt.Hiei., a typical alpine route, but it was all bolted even though it can be climbed with cams without any preset protections.

In normal alpine climbing logic, it is normal to climb without relying on a left-over protection such as rotten pitons. So they usually bring their own.  

If there is an old and unreliable bolts (a cut anchor that is 40 years old...), unskilled climbers will think that it is OK to fall down it since it looked exactly same as a petzl bolt which is used in free climbing route in mainland Japan.

This is NOT Petze, this is 40 years old cut anchor made of steel and the hanger is alminium
inside
Mordern bolt should look like this bolt(hanger should be straiten)



If the approach to the route is 5 minutes or so instead of 6 hours of trekking , climbers think it's a easy climb. 

On the Hakua slab where I was a second, a lead climber ran out of rope because he missed the 4th belay station, and the two of us had to hang from just one bolt at the midpoint of the route. 

This is so embarrassing for a responsible climber, but I dare to write this about because I now wonder if the lead climber might have been also tricked into going to this one.  If any senior climber who knew exactly what he was capable of, I don't think he would have recommended the hakua slab. It is more likely that it was intended to hurt him.

Now, if that one bolt, the one bolt that we both thought was Petzl at the time, we were hanging together, had failed,  we would both have been, gone to death.  And that bolt as a running point was this unreliable cut anchor of 40 years old. 

In modern climbing, the "normal" bolt means gougeon. Not the old cheap cut anchor...

Our experience...and ignorance...was disastrous, but the route should have been designed so as not to attract inexperienced climbers who might skip an climbing anchor or get stuck in a rope so the lead climber could not bring rope up. It is easy to make the kind of mistakes when the approach is too short, people take it too easy.

If you pull out the bolts, you won't get such inexperienced climbers. They will be cautious when it says you have to climb with natural protection. (Green point)

Natural protection means you have to show your true ability. 

The term "all-natural protection" is used in Japan, in short, "all-natu-pro" may be confusing, but climbers who climb the same route with preset protections (runner points) are not good climbers, and climbers who climb with his/her own protections are the ones who climb properly.

After all, there is no way to find a preset protection in the mountain, so climbing without relying on it is a normal alpine ascent, and it is a task that deserves it.

Of course, as long as you have your own cams and pitons, you can aid climb or whatever, it is not banned in alpine climbing to use aid, because it is alpine climbing. In other words, it is not required to climb completely free climb in alpine climbing. (Ofcouse it is better to do so)


On the other hand, if you want to characterize a route as a free climbing route (for slab or for practice), you should reinstall bolts and maintain them properly so that climber can fall.

Free climbing routes are climbed without aids. Instead, climber will take the risk. Even if you fall, of course you won't die, unless the routes with "X" or "R". It is totally different from alpine climbing.

Note: I recently concluded that Hakua slabs are free climbing route.

Generally, climbers these days, no matter how lousy their climbing style is, when they reach the final anchor, they would say "I made it!!!" 

In fact, the Hakua Slab was not properly climbed but he didn't seem to feel sorry for that... not just that he seemed to be proud of what he had done... apprently failed climb. 

Then I realized why in Japan, climbing accidents never reduce in this digital age, since 300 near-misses were behind of 5 serious accidents.  It is because the climber thinks failed climb a success. However, without the ability to recognize those near-misses, there will be no improvement.

Education on climbing style has been neglected and hang doging & red pointing became the norm, then the grade competition, so even if you can climb 5.12 in RP, you don't know basic rope management.

For example, if you don't use the long sling to make the rope to make a straight line as possible, the rope will not flow when you need to bring the rope up.
 

Climbers should be able to "steal"...ie, you just learn by yourself, without being taught,  that kind of thing, but these days young climbers won't learn.

If you miss the anchor or get stuck with a rope, you can't say that you "climbed it. It was a lesson to be learned. (But I don't think he will...)

Well, I learned a lot from this incident.

The reason why I went on this one was simply because I felt sorry for him that he did not have a climbing partner.

Now I regret that I was too forgiving.

One reason why this happened to me was my dead brother... I was projecting my young brother who were dead young to any climber younger than myself. 

It won't happen again.

4 Year Summary...Kyushu Climbing Situation page 3

Comparison with Yamanashi of a outdoor climbing mecca in Japan

Yamanashi prefecture is located in the next to Tokyo, as you know, so this prefecture is the climbing mecca of Japan, thanks to the large climbing population and the accumulation of intelligence in climbing... The legendary climber in Japanese climbing history, live in near Tokyo, where traveling to the crags are easy.... Yuji is in Iruma, in Saitama prefecture but it is easy access to Ogawayama where people say, it is the "camp4 of Japan". (The camp 4 is in Yosemite, the world's climbing mecca)

Not many climber does not chose to live in Yamanashi because the jobs are the problem. It's not the big city, it is only a small town so income will be substancially low and jobs are hard to get... so most people chose to climb in a gym in weekdays and go outdoor climbing to Yamanashi, or such, on weekends. That is the typical life style of Japanese climbers. 

But I was happen to be in Yamanashi by accident. So that was the reason of climbing in Yamanashi to me.

Comparing Fukuoka with Yamanashi, Yamanashi has a large population of climbers for its population, and is the destination for the inflow of serious climbers, not the outflow side. Fukuoka is not at all best location for climbers. (which made me very sad, of course since I was already a climber when I moved to Fukuoka... I was to switch my emphasis on Yoga rather than climbing when I moved here first... on the contrary I was made to focus on... to save my life.)

There is no other prefecture like Yamanashi. Although many climbers come to Nagano, it seems that Hokuto City in Yamanashi is generally considered the best location for climbers. (Iruma, where Yuji is located, is also close to Okutama, but there are too many areas in Okutama that are off-limits to climbers.)

Outdoor rocks (crags)

So, when I moved to Yamanashi, we gave up the ballet class I took for about 20 years including in the U.S. and started to climb, alpine and ice. 

And when I move to Fukuoka, I did not expect at all about the cragging in Fukuoka.

That's why I looked for a good climbing gym, but the result was disappointing. 

So the next year, one of the senior member of the Yamanashi alpine club, actually he was 3 year younger than me, but he started climbing before I started so should be more knowledgeable, I suppose, ...we started climbing together. It was purely convenient to him since I was done with my market research in climbing on Fukuoka, for one year previously. 

So our activities as two members of Yamanashi Alpine Club, started. I mean, we are NOT the couple. 

Actually I was never close to him before I come to Fukuoka, since he was the one considered "we had to watch him or he will die since he thinks death -wishing posture is cool" kind of person.

so for me it was two kind of stress; stress of going to unknown crag without bolt information and the stress to protect myself with less understanding climber who thinks he is a better climber because of the grade.

At first, we toured all the major crags in Kyushu in 2 years. We have visited almost all the major crags in Kyusyu, so I feel that I have a good grasp of the crags.

As a result of this tour, I found out why lead climbing is not popular in Kyushu.

The bolts were so shabby and were 40 years old cut anchors. Older than what we had in Yamanashi. They looked like they were 40 years old, not 20 years old. (https://allnevery.blogspot.com/2021/04/blog-post_29.html) 

Also outdoor climbing were not properly taught.

The parade of strange anchors I had never seen before was exactly what someone once described as "the exhibition of life or death". The kind of anchors I only knew in the text books.



I had no idea how to use the funny anchors like this, which I had never seen in Yamanashi before. So I asked to my climbing mentor in Nagano(it's next to Yamanashi so it is about the same in this case) every time I see unfamiliar anchors. 

Every time I asked, he said, "Add one more for back-up!" 

Not just him,  I got a lot of advice from the overseas, from as far away as the Czech Republic, and from as far away as the UIAA Secretary General...

I wondered if these were the demo anchors that  I had heard so much about... as a bad examples of climbing "NOT to do!" 

I had read about Do's and Don'ts in text books! Am I experiencing what I had read and heard about?


It is too scary to fall.


4 Year Summary...Kyushu Climbing Situation page 2

Gyms in Fukuoka are non-traditional

It was my first year in Fukuoka 2017, and to my surprise, the most difficult thing was to find a good climibing gym in Fukuoka, which is cosidered a capital, a sort of Tokyo, in Kyusyu island.

The quality of gyms are... to be honest,  low in Fukuoka, or I should say, there is good one also bad one.  One thing is sure is that, one traditional clilmber is running is going out of business and one the owner does not know anything about climbing is winning the market share. 

In entire Japan, the core human resource in Climbing community knows each other and they are almost all the time near Tokyo, ie. Yamanashi.  So in Kyusyu, there are very few people who know "what climbing is all about".

We just say, climbing, but climbing has so many sub categories, such as high altitude mountaineering, Sport climbing, aid-climbing, free-climbing, alpine climbing, cragging, multi-pitch climbing, trad climbing, ice climbing, and dry-tooling, and bouldering.

There are very few people who understand the whole picture of those climbing world and what's worth, Free climbers dislike alpine climbers, vice versus. 

And in Kyusyu, there are very few "all-around climbers" who know wide perspectives.

For example, Tokio Muroi is the one of the founder of the Japanese bouldering, but  of course he is not ignorant of alpine climbing. So, a climber like me, who loves ice climbing goes to his gym, and asked him, "Hey, I climbed a route called XX, but I couldn't do this move at all. Do you have an assignment with similar moves?" 

Such questions is not rude. It is very traditional. He would never say this is my gym, climb my route!"  They don't say, "This is my gym, climb my problem!" Instead, he will think how to train it with me.
 

There is no unprofessional gym staff like,  "I've never climbed a crag before" nor do they say, "I've never been to the outdoor rock. (Don't be surprised, it's norm in the climbing gyms in Fukuoka).

On the contrary, there are gym managers who attack me, as a customer, to my face, saying, "I don't like people who go to cragging". 

Perhaps they do so out of jealousy and sulking, but no one is stupid enough to go out of their way to pay money to go to a such climbing gym.  (As a side note, young men who runs business like a arrogant attitude like kings are very common in Fukuoka. Why should the customers have to flatter them?)
 

So, I have no such desire to go to that kind of gym. No one will. 

The quality of the problems are not as good as the gyms in my Yamanashi, and on top of that, they are more expensive because they are urban gyms, ignorant Fukouka citizen are just being taken advantage of.

Of course, there are few good gyms that specialize in different types of climbing.

Stump is a good gym for competition climber. I heard that Mr. Tokunaga is a good setter, but I am not interested in competition climbing. No wonder. I'm not going to become an Olympian from now on! There is no way I can be an Olympian. I would rather have problems that make me think than problems that make my finger stronger in competitions.

Most gyms don't have route setters for beginner level climbs. They rarely even switch routes. In other words, climbers of lower grades have no contact with good route setters.

Generally speaking, you only need a gym grade of about 3rd(5.10 to 5.11) to climb outdoor rock 5.9.  

So, no matter how good the quality of the expert grade in the climbing gyms, it is useless for outdoor rock climber.

Ziploc also seemed like a good gym for becoming a boulderer, but my fingers were sore after just one day. The problems there are more boulder-oriented. It means very hard on the fingers. This is a good gym for people who want to be outside boulderers. But for me, hurting fingers = not good for a full-body workout. 

I like their problems, very enjoyable, so I recommend it to some people who like to boulder, occasionally. But for me? No.

Free climbing is usually rope climbing. There are gyms that do exactly what the name implies, and there are also climbing gyms where you can lead... but the lead areas are too small, and it's dangerous because belayers might bump into each other. It seems that you end up settling for bouldering rather than lead climbing, which makes it seem pointless. The problems here, too, were basically good.

On the public wall, the axion is free but it was just a muscle training. Moreover, the belay is very scary. One handed belay. Very far belay. It was a showcase of bad belay. A muscle training with bad belay is a fear-resistant muscle training. Fear has been scientifically proven to be detrimental to move mastery. I don't think the problem were a good one.

So, well, it's not that there is nothing to gain by going any of them, but it's not worth the cost. 

I don't really have to go out of my way to go any of there....
 

It would be more fun to spend the gym fees on transportation and go to outdoor cragging or save for the oversea trip.

There is a nearby crag in Fukuoka that is only 30 minutes from my house. If I wanted to go slab climbing, I could do it at a nearby park.

So, in the end, the cheapest thing to do is to climb the slab on my way to shopping, pick up a stance on a stone wall around the area, and practice foot placement. And, you can handicap with crocs.
 

Fukuoka is not exactly the Tokyo of Kyushu when it comes to climbing.

So, the serious climbers are moving out of the city looking for better climbing situation.

I think that's a good thing under this circumstances.

4 Year Summary...Kyushu Climbing Situation page 1

Note: This article is a translation of this one, I wrote for Japanese audience, which is the most popular article in this blog.

 A Conversation with Mr. Tajima Brought on by the No-Mat Climber Issue 

I had a chance to chat with Ippei Tajima, a local climber who "puts eye on"...a sort of.... yes, climbers watch each other for security... in this area, Kusyu's climbing... Kyusyu is one of the 4 large island of Japan, a far away from Tokyo, so it is quite countryside. That means "climbing culture" comes in late compared to Tokyo. Tokyo is a world class big city so everything is "up to date"... but Kyusyu? Everything is so out dated and it is more like 40 years behind of Tokyo. Imagine, Irland to London. I have never been to Irland so I never know what's like, but the point is this illustrate how the climbing of Kyusyu island is, not of Tokyo. 

This conversation with Tajima gave me something of a summary of the past four years.

Gym are competing...


Looking back, my climbing trip started with a visit to a climbing gym in my neighborhood....run by Tajima.

At first, I thought I would be a gym climber in Fukuoka because, unlike Yamanashi, Fukuoka is a city, the crags are far away.  So I imagined that there would not  be as many good quality crags as in Yamanashi. (Yamanashi is one of the best climbing destination in Japan.)

So, I was willing to be a gym climber in Fukuoka, instead of ice and alpine climbing, which is stepping down to me, but that was OK with me.

In my Yamanashi days, I had no reason to go to a gym because the outside rock was so good. Whenever I went to the gym, I would ask Mr. Tokio Muroi one of the founder of Japanese climbing, on the move I couldn't do on a crag, "Excuse me, is there any problem to get a far jag after underhold?"  I was asking such question. 

In short, I was using a gym completely for outside rock climbing. And to begin with, ice climbing cannot be done indoors.

So, in Fukuoka, I felt that I  finally come to the city! I thought I would go to a gym and try to get a new style, get better with my sport climbing.

But things were not that easy...

When I told Tajima's gym that I had applied for a part-time job at Bravo, another climbing gym, he banned me from the gym on the second day. I had already paid my monthly membership fee and it was the second day. So I was ripped off.  (I want the monthly fee back...seriously.)

And, it was a false accusation. His policy was " Do not teach a move"  (I think that a gym that doesn't teach climbing move is not a good gym. Any gym that doesn't teach, may not be fulfilling its duty as a gym.)   At that time, a group of college boys I met at his gym couldn't climb the problem I climbed, and asked me, "How you did it?" I simply replied, "If you can get that hold, it's the end". I don't know what part of this is teaching.

A record of those days :  https://allnevery.blogspot.com/2017/08/blog-post_13.html

His wife was not a climber by any stretch of the imagination. The gym was not very clean, and I felt that the management is not well done with this gym.

However, I was pleased to see that they had a magazine called "Climbing" which listed serious climber's name.  Then, I wanted to know about the climbing situation in Kyushu...so I wanted to go there just to see him and have a information for a while until I got some information...for example, that Azumaya crag is said to 2 grades harder...and such. Risk information is hard to get.

But, for the above reasons, I can no longer go to the gym.

(So, I didn't know the previous reputation of any crags in Kyusyu and had to go to climb with a blank knowledge.)

Moreover,  Bravo was again very bad.... Bravo is a gym whose owner does not climb,  he was out of climbers network, so when you talk about climbing to him in the interview for a job, he had no idea what I was talking about. 

He does not know past Kazumasa Yoshida.  I told him I used to climb in Yamanashi, will he understand? No.  I tell him I climbed in Laos, would he understand? No. 

In short, he is just an amateurs. (I heard that this person became the president of the Fukuoka Prefectural Federation.)

I managed to get hired, but on my first day of work, I saw a blacklist behind the counter and asked, "What's this?" I asked, "A list of people who are dangerous of belay".  However, the person who told me this, demonstrated to me, "These people don't hold ATC like this when waiting to belay," and that hand...it's an ATC, but with a grip belay... (sweat).

so I turned blue and quit the job that day. The rule of climber No1 is, "Don't go near anything that stinks".

After all, there is no such job in modern Japan that you should cost your life.

I pointed out this mistake, and later received an apology...but if this was the case about the belay, I could imagine that it was likely to be "old-fashioned" from top to bottom, and that I would have to keep correcting it... 

And if a young man below my age was the manager. So he will be my superior in the gym I work for...? I could only think of nothing but a long and arduous road, so I did not think it was necessary for me to make such a personal sacrifice to work there.

At the time, it was only my first year in Fukuoka, and I was dreaming of a rosy life in Fukuoka. It was like taking a deep breath in a city for the first time in a long time.... I thought that, as hobbies, yoga and climbing would be more advanced in the city of Fukuoka than in the countryside of Yamanashi, because of its larger population and more urban setting. I expected that the city of Fukuoka would be more advanced in terms of both yoga and climbing as hobbies than the rural Yamanashi Prefecture.

I can go climbing expedition once a year I would be satisfied..., I thought.

To be honest, there was no difference in cost between going to Ogawayama and going to Taiwan or Korea. So, it seemed more reasonable to go to Taiwan or to Korea every year for trad and ice climb than to go to Ogawayama.

Goto next page.

2023/03/28

【若い人向け】師匠クラス! 中島さんの投稿…岩場がクライマーを育てる

■ ぺてらん vs ベテラン

九州では、ベテランならぬペテランが、落ちている動くものに道標つけて、「これでよし!」とか言っている、クライミング業界の零落ぶり… 

そもそも、師匠となれる経験値の豊かな人自体が存在しない…という低レベルが、ノーマル化して40年経過し、定着してしまっている現代クライミングですが…

そのような現状の中で、中島兄弟を育てた実績のある、立派な師匠クラスと言える中島さんのFB投稿が回ってきました。ので、展開します。

若いクライマーはご参考に。

ーーーーーーーーーーー以下引用ーーーーーーーーーーーーーーー

先日佐久の友人と岩場探しに行ってきた。

以前、同じことを書いたが、私は岩場がクライマーを育てると思っている。岩場探しは時間が自由になる人間の大事な仕事だ。長野県にも若くて優秀なクライマーが沢山育ったと思うが、大多数はルートを開拓することはなく、既成ルートをなぞることで満足するらしい。それは、絵描きが模写をしているのと同じだと思う。

イムジン河も任侠道もフラットマウンテンも先人が残してくれたものだ。君たちは後進に何を残すのか?
 

3時間の藪山歩きの後、はたして岩はあった。苔むして、もろそうで、樹林より低くて、何より荒々しいが、今回の偵察でこの辺りには膨大な岩資源が存在することがわかった。帯状の岩壁は総延長10キロはあるだろう。使える部分は、果たしてどのくらいあるのかは不明だが。


出来たらミニマムボルトのルートを何本か開拓するとともに、岩場の全容を明らかにし、若い世代に託したい。


まずは1時間以内でたどり着けるアプローチを探すことからだな。

ーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーー 

■ 岩場がクライマーを育てる の解説

昨今のクライマーって、ゆとり教育の弊害なのか、このような言葉があったとしても、その意味するところが理解できないみたいなんですよね…

岩場がクライマーを育てる  の反対は、

ある岩場で、

 一番難しい5.12aを1本だけ登って登れたら、後はぜんぶグレードが下だから

といって、

「この岩場には俺が登る課題はもう無い」

って言うことですよ? そういう人は、なんとか自分にも登れる次の5.12B、を探すことになります。

これが、一般的にグレード主義に陥った若いクライマーがやっていることですよ?

なんとか自分にでも登れる◎◎グレードの課題のことを、”お買い得◎◎”とか言います。

グレード主義というのは、すべてお買い得品で、グレードを上げているってことです。

それでは、だんだんと虚構というか、本質的な実力ではなく、見せかけのものに近づいていくことに、原理的になってしまうことは、分かりますよね?

だから、若い人は事故っているんです。 だから、5.12登れる人が、10bで落ちるわけです。

■ 年配者は教えているつもり。若年者は教わっていないつもり。

しかし、この

 私は岩場がクライマーを育てると思っている

という言葉で、指導する側は教えているつもり、ですが、指導を受け取っている側が、言葉の意味をきちんと受け取れる知性があるか?というと…?

残念ながら、そうではないみたいです。

岩場内で自分が登れる一番難しい課題を1本だけ登ってその岩場は卒業した気分になる

ことの抑止力には全くならないんですよね…

つまり、相手に期待している理解能力に、相互に行き違いがあるのです。

現代の若い人には、私が上記で解説しているくらい、意味を分解し、言語化しないと、わからないです。

 年配者=ハイコンテクスト文化

 若年者=ローコンテクスト文化

だからです。日本は伝統的にハイコンテキスト文化です。言わなくても、主語は推察できる。「今日は暑いね」といえば、黙って窓を開けるのが良い生徒、という文化です。

登山では、「落石注意」という看板にそれが現れています。夫は50代後半ですが、その夫ですら、「落石注意」を見て、速やかに通行すべき、とは理解できず、立ち止まってほんとに注意して見てしまうのです。下手したら、そこで休憩するレベル感です。

ところが、現代の若い人は、ローコンテキスト文化です。何もかもを言語化して教えないとわからないです。

つまり、「暑いね」と言っただけでは相手の窓を開けるという行動を引き出すことはできず、「今日は暑いので、窓を開けてください」と全部言わないといけないということです。

特に日本の男性は、日本の女性に甘やかされています。

これまで日本の男性は、一般に、立てるという言葉で日本の女性に文化的に甘やかされてきたので、何も言わなくても相手が分かってくれる、というのに慣れています。

しかし、クライミングでは、男しかいません。

岩場がクライマーを作る、

なんて、現代のクライマーに言っても、「俺、頭悪いから、わかんね!」で終わりです。

そうなると、結局、

 言われたとおりではなく、みんながやるとおりにやる

ということになります。それが子供の一般的な行動原理だからです。

結果として、クライミング業界全体が

 お子様っぽい

という結果に…。その原因は、年配者が、起こした言語が、現代の若い人には、ポエティック過ぎて、きちんと伝わらない、という点にあるというのが、この5年の九州での私の観察結果です。 

大都市を除く地方都市では特に、大体、学業ができた子供、知的水準が高い子供は、みな進学で、県外にでていってしまっています。結果、大都会での一般群衆の知的水準より地方都市では知的水準が下です。

クライミングのトップクラスの知見…内藤さんレベル…が、東京に固まっているのは、岩場が東京にあるからではなく、知性が大都市近郊に偏っているからです。 





2023/03/25

ファンケル vs iHerb

 ■ ファンケルとiHerbの比較

日本人は日本企業びいきが根強いが、そういう人のうちほとんどの人がアメリカでの生活経験がないので、食わず嫌いなのではないだろうか?

OL時代に、ファンケルでサプリを補助していたが、いまいち、

 今感じているほどの効果

を感じられなかったので、その原因を探る。

■ ビタミンB 50mg

ファンケルのビタミンB群 

ーーーーーー 一日2粒 一粒あたりーーーーー

ビタミンB1:25.0mg、ビタミンB2:12.0mg、ナイアシン:30mg、ビタミンB6:10.0mg、葉酸:400μg、ビタミンB12:20.0μg、ビオチン:50μg、パントテン酸:30.0mg、イノシトール:40mg

ーーーーーーーーーーーーーーー

B50を一日2度飲んでいる=B群全体で100mgの摂取。ファンケル製品だと8粒取らないといけない。

しかも、それでも、B6は80mgにしかならない。B6はATPの生産に最も重要なビタミンであるにも関わらず。

ビタミンB12も、8粒とって、160UGでは…。

ビタミンB50と言うときに一般的に量は、50mg、B100といえば、100mgで医者の先生たちは、私のように控えめにB50×2ではなく、B100×2が一日の摂取量だ。

価格は378円で60粒入り。2粒飲んで1ヶ月分の計算だが、至適量の8粒飲むと、4倍なので一週間で終わってしまう。

つまり、2ヶ月のコストは、378円×4×2=3024円となる。

iHerbで購入できるSpecialTwo3834円(29ドル)とでは、あちらはミネラルも入っている

 ■ ビタミンC

ファンケルのビタミンC は、1日あたり1000mgで30日分、一日3粒で、358円。

そもそも論になるが、一日あたり1000mgは全然少ない。一日3000mg、つまり3gが健康効果を実感できる量であり、必要量は日々変わる。ストレスが多い=アウトドアが多い人は全く足りない。

術後は、なんと25gも必要で、私も体内に吸収されているかはともかく、15gまで摂っても、まったく下痢にならない。吸収率から考えて、10gくらいは吸収されているはずで、 ファンケルの10倍。

一日3g摂るとなると、358円×3で 1074円。

カリフォルニアゴールドのビタミンCは

ーーーーーーーーーーー
California Gold Nutrition, Gold C(ゴールドC)、USP(米国薬局方)グレードビタミンC、1,000mg、ベジカプセル60粒 Unit price: ¥280

ーーーーーーーーーー 

一粒1000mg入っているのが60粒なので、3g取れば、420円。

1074円と420円では、ダントツに近く、420円の勝ちである。

■ ナイアシン

私が睡眠障害に著効したナイアシン…統合失調症の治療にももちいられる。

は、ファンケルにそもそもない。

国内メーカーのチョコラBBなどが、含有量的にまったく、

 アフリカレベルの栄養失調を防ぐ程度の意味、

しかなく、日本人は、異性化液糖の攻撃(B群の消耗)に対して、無策であることが分かる。

いいですか? 糖質の代謝にも資質の代謝にも、タンパク質の代謝にも、ビタミンB群、C、および鉄、が必要なんですよ?

■ 代謝に必要なビタミン


 というので、ほとんどの人は、ファンケル製品を買ったとして、防御しているつもりで全く防御に至る量に足りていない。

その上、高額。つまり、与えられずに奪われている。つまり、ぼったくられている。

■ 結論

アイハーブが一番安い。株を買うなら、アイハーブ。

2023/03/21

My dead young brother showed up in my dream.... what I learned in my climbing

 Brother who had only a blue frame.

Recently, with my vitamin B6 sufficiency and my blood having escaped pernicious anemia, I began to have lucid dreams again.
 
I dreamed that I was having nightmares in the middle of the night and was in a setting where I was still at my parents' house. I called my brother with an SOS (in a setting where he was still alive) and he came to me...and to my surprise,  he was just a thin blue frame...and I looked at that frame and said, "Huh? Oh, well, my brother is already dead... What? Is this a dream?" I understood.
 
I realized that he had already become a frame = he had already been reincarnated somewhere.
 
I understood that.
 
But I also realized that if his big sister was in a pinch, he would come to rescue me, if I called him.
 

My younger brother was unreliable when he was a boy...
 
My younger brother was a slower growing child compared to me, who was in charge of the household as the eldest daughter of a single mother with her 3 children. Boys, in general, would be...
 
He wet the bed until the third grade, but became popular in middle school as an athlete, and came home with 14 pieces of chocolate for Valentine's Day.

When I was in the third grade in Junior high, at age 15,  in some night crawler snuck into our house in the middle of the night, and he touched my stomach.
 
What a surprise! He was a classmate of my younger brother.... At the time, I was sleeping at the bottom of the bunk bed and my brother was sleeping on top, so when I noticed the night crawler's hand patting my stomach, I jumped up and, of course, woke my brother up.
 
However, my brother's response at the time was, to say the least, disappointment.... 
 
He didn't even notice that his big sister was being molested. He was just wondered "why did they wake me up...?"  I said to my brother, "Catch this guy so he doesn't get away!"  and I went to call my mother in a big hurry...

The guy was later caught for molestation and underwear theft(which was not just mine, all the neighbor's).
 
At that time, I really felt that my brother was just a kid.
 
Later, I would relive this feeling while climbing. Climber at young age is just a kid.
 

The Only Partner Who Shared My Mother's Collapse

When I entered junior high school, my mother, buoyed by the bubble economy, made a series of purchases that seemed inappropriate for a single-mother household.
 
A laser disk player and a word processor was maybe OK, but a few other things, but a snakeskin bag cost 160,000 yen($1600) and a high-end coat 150,000 yen($1500).
 
My shoes were leather loafers, a year earlier than other children started wearing loafers.
 
My mother came from a local wealthy family, they even have my grand grand fathers statue,  so she was always like that, spending money when she had to.
 
By the time I entered high school, we had no money for food. 

My mother became addicted to credit card debt and gambling. 

My mother hid the bicycle spinning family finances, and no one could really see what's happening.  From my younger brothers and sisters, still a kid, all parent looks like a god, ...also perhaps my mom were embarrassed to show up miserable status...real status...though,  I was a rather precocious child, and by the time I was 12, I was already more intelligent than a normal adult. I had finished to read the Marxian economics around that time... so she could not deceive me. I knew immediately on a hunch that my mother was on a path of multiple debts from which there was no turning back. After all, she would come home crying in the middle of the night.
 
At the time, I waited for my mother's late return studying English until past midnight. I thought that the only way out for me was to study. As a child in junior high school, I could not support myself by getting a wage. So, I studied as a prayer. Academics is the only hope to me.
 
My younger brother and sister were sleeping peacefully, in contrast to me who was up late into the night waiting for my mother to return. I knew my mom needed my mental support.
 

I was aware, without anyone telling me, that I could not expect my mother to finance my college education. However, I was in a top high school at the time, and the percentage of students who went on to higher education was 100%. What was I supposed to do?


I was struck with despair. Not feeling like a despair, but real despair.
 
My mother had no special ability to earn big money, but she was a proud woman. She was always saying things like, "We will not be on the government checks!" She was always saying something like that. 

In fact, at the time, people were not very understanding of single-mother families and were very critical of them, and social support was considered as a shame.
 
But, you know, it is the children who are being victimized.... For example, my mother did not want her children to receive dental care, because of the cost. But usually, family of low income will not need to pay medical fee in Japan. We did not use the merit just because of her pride.
 
What I sacrificed in childhood was my dental health. Time to live innocently as a child. What I gained instead, resilience, my academic success, and the ability to forge my own path.
 
If my mother had received proper single parent welfare as a single-mother household, her children's medical expenses would have been free. But she did not.... he pride can not allow that.
 
In this regard, my grandmother was no different, and she is ashamed to carry on the rights that are given to her as a citizen of Japan.
 

Government taking care of you was a shame, was the reason.

But...the both of them seemed to think that they could rely on her children as a right. Especially on me. What I was told was, " It's a family tie".
 
But the term "a family tie", to me, is talking about me contributing to the household,  one way or the other, and neither my younger brother nor younger sister are required to contribute. Because they are younger than me. However, the age difference is something that will never change.
 
It is so constructively similar to how the term "self-responsibility" used in climbing community in Japan,  it seems to apply only to me,  but not for the other fellow especially young men... They usually show up without even knowing how to rappel. I never asked my climber mate how to rappel, I knew it before I go to any crag. 
 

It meant that as long as I stayed in my house, "forever," I would not be able to have time for myself under the beautiful name of "family tie", and a life I live myself would be treated as a selfish act, and only a life that prioritized my family would be allowed. You know it's Asian good daughter tradition. Self sacrifice. No doubt that Amy Tan was my favorite novel back then. 
 
This is the same thing that happened in the climbing world. I only give and my partner does not give me back. I belay him, he does not belay me.
 
It is natural to love one's family, but forcing self-sacrifice is not their rights. 

Everyone is allowed to live their life first and foremost.
 
In the end, my mom was too proud to ask a financial help to the government, so her children are the ones who suffer.  Her ego was too big and love could not overcome the shame.
 
The dental care I was unable to receive when I was in teen, was paid for with my own money after I went to college and became a working student with a full-time job. At that time, I felt very satisfied. I wanted to take care of my teeth properly. That was a minimum of human rights.
 
The same tooth, later, became the first implant in my 20's, due to various circumstances.... a small problem grow big...  At the time, I was headhunted by a Germany venture company and was selling German dental turbines, so I got the implant from one of the best doctors in the industry. It cost quite a bit, but I felt like I paid just about the full amount I could afford.
 

It was a guilt pay back to myself.  I was so proud that I have enough money to take care of my own health with such a high quality treatment. But sales was a big boring job so I soon quit, but the implants stayed.
 
...and so on, because my mother was too proud of everything. That seemed like my family illness.
 
Sad thing was that  my mother was not as good as she wished, she olny says pretty things but never be able to actually responsible.

 
In the end, I, the eldest daughter, ran the household as a housewife for 10 years from the ages of 8 to 18. I also had to maintain top grades in school.
 
This was out of pride of my mother, who did not want to be looked down upon because of a single-mother family. My life was a series of entrance exams,  for kindergarten, elementary school, and junior high school, of course high school and university. I was the only such child in my class.  There were only two kids in my grade school who had entrance exam in Junior high. The result? Of course, I passed.
 
In elementary and junior high school, I was class president, student council, and captain of the athletic team. I was forced to live up to my mother's expectations, and the school teachers took advantage of poor me as a convenient student with no complaints from the PTA.
 
In the midst of all this, my younger brother had to continue to fulfill my mother's expectations in his way, not academically, but by swimming. 

My brother's life revolved around swimming competitions, and so did my family's. We fed him and made him swim, and at competitions, the whole family was there to cheer him on. Thanks to this, my brother was a medalist since he was in elementary school, 5th and 6th grade. However, the family also has a hard time being swept up in the competitions.
 
In our house, things was like this. Child was my mother's report card, my mother's way of proving herself to the world.
 
My brother's grades were so low that there was no high school for him to go to, but in reality, I think it was because my mother was so intent on making him a good swimmer that he was so exhausted that he didn't have the time nor energy to study.
 
My mother was a very demanding person. It was hard for anyone to meet those demands. My brother was one of the victim. So do I.
 
She wanted me to be good academically, she wanted my brother to be a good swimmer, and she wanted my sister to be charming.
 
I think that my mother was trying to use her children to revenge the world that made her unhappy, but the need for approval was something she should have fulfilled by herself not by her kids.
 
My younger brother was the only person with whom I shared such a cramped childhood, my only buddy, you could say.
 
As soon as he entered high school, he started working part-time and started paying for his own food, just as I had done in my first year of high school. His first part-time job was working as a "road man" (a kind of manual work). He came home exhausted.
 
It was because his mother's purse was so empty that he had no choice but to do so....
 
In Japanese high school, school lunches are not served. So we had to bring money for lunch, but my mother had no such money. In the end, I had to realize that she meant that I had to earn the money for my lunch by myself. My first job was bakery in a early morning.
 
I was 18 years old, and without consulting anyone, I decided to go on Osaka University of foreign study in Osaka. A faraway from home. 
 
In the name of this higher education, my mother received an interest-free loan of 500,000 yen from the bank. I only received 170,000 yen. The rest, from the entrance fee, travel expenses to the entrance examination, fees for mock examinations, and funds to prepare for my new life, were all financed by myself. The remaining 330,000 yen probably went to my family' food expenses.
 
Studying for entrance exams as a high school student and raising funds to go to college on my own
 
In short, I was extremely busy. I would come home around 2 a.m. when everyone else was asleep, and leave for my part-time job at 6 a.m. I deliberately avoided running into my family.
 
This was because once they came home in the evening and my mother asked me to cook dinner, which I did, but instead of eating with my family, I wanted to study in my room. My mother had poured the dinner over my head. Accusing me of selfish. If I had not been home, such things would not have happened.
 
In other words, if I met my family, I would be required to do domestic work, would  not be able to study nor work part-time to gain a wage. The people who helped me were my friends in the high school. They sheltered me during the night.
 
I slept four hours or so, but the school's policy was that I could sleep during classes that were not needed for college exams, so I could sleep in the art club room during math, chemistry, and other classes that I didn't need. Therefore, I spent more time in the art club as a nap room than I did drawing.
 
And so, when I left home in the name of furthering my education, I was finally able to leave my role...a good Asian daughter who take care of my family.
 
It had been a really long and painful childhood.  I really felt relieved that my childhood was over. I felt like, "Well, I was able to endure this, so I can endure anything else that comes my way".
 
When I went on to higher education, people around me felt sorry for me because I was a working student. At my college co-op job, everyone gave me things like bowls and towels as gifts. Compared to my childhood, however, being a college student seemed like a piece of cake....
 
In college, you are not expected to play any role other than being yourself. All I had to do was to take care of myself! I was finally in a position where I could enjoy freedom...
 

Until then, even if I wanted to go running, I had no time to go running. Now I can use my time on myself!
 
In college, I had to work full time, attend college classes at night, and pay my own tuition and living expenses...a much harder lifestyle than most students...but still, it was heaven. Because where I came was even worse.
 

I was youngest in the student dormitory.

At the time, my workmates at the university Library were people who had witnessed me being free and live my life and helped me in many ways. It was a cradle, and it was the reason that I was able to graduate from college. I did not get that position by luck, but get that by leaving my résumé , asking them that I wanted to work there if there is any any openings.
 
Life in night school is hard, and people fall behind.
 
However, in my case, as mentioned above, my childhood was difficult in the first place, and since I had done the "mission impossible" in high school, so from my point of view, my college life was a piece of cake. I had a stable income, albeit a low monthly salary. I was working full time during the day, and my academic work was at night 6 pm to 9pm, including general education courses that I had no interest in, I could just get a C in credit so I was able to let go of the general class that don't need and forcus on my main major, English. I was all A or A plus in English as my major.

On my days off, I enjoyed going to Sannomiya in Kobe to visit vintage clothing stores and buy imported foods that I had longed to buy. I was a big reader of westnern literature like "Anne of green gables".

In my second year of college, I started to take a ballet class, which I had longed to do as a child, and in my third year, some of my seniors introduced me to a job opportunity abroad.
 
I took a leave and went to the United States. It was after my first trip abroad that I found a job, so I had only 20,000 yen in my wallet, but I had already developed a tolerance for a life of low income, so I didn't think anything of it. Well, I thought, I will never starve in a developed country.

I went to the U.S. with such a tight budget however, the happiest time of my life was the two years I spent in San Francisco.
 
I lived happily as a hippie in a poor Hispanic neighborhood called Mission district with people who were also on the edge of life. I was also in a millionaire residence such as Moraga, since my BF's father was AT&T executive.
 
When I came back to Japan, the bubble economy had burst, the employment ice age had set in, my seniors were refused in job interview by 40 companies, and my classmates went back to the home with disappointment. I had good grades in college, and most people told me to go on to graduate school, but I did not think it was a wise choice to further increase the approximately 4 million yen in scholarship debt I was already carrying.
 
Without this debt, I would not have had to return to Japan, but unless I graduated from college, I would have to pay it back at once, and without a job and a deposit in the U.S., my uncle, who had been my guarantor in Japan, would have to pay the debt. I can not do that.
 
So, I took the responsibility rather than my dream of immigrating to the US.
 
Living in the U.S. was a dream I could not take due to lack of money.
 
At the time, I had to come back from the U.S. because of this debt, so I was willing to pay it back in Japan and quickly return to the U.S. 

Sadly, it took me 20 years to pay it back. So, my life was restarted when this repayment was completed at age 38 when I started climbing in Yamanashi.
 
In the end, after returning to Japan, I worked as a student interpreter and held three part-time jobs during my senior years of college.
 
Around this time, my boyfriend David came to Japan, but it was tough. David could not speak Japanese. I knew that continuing to work at the library would not help me find a job during the recession, so I took a risk and was in the process of creating credit with human resource company by working as a short-term temporary worker. Temp jobs were just starting to emerge then, unlike today, the system was structured so that only the experienced people could get in.
 
Because it was a short-term job and the income was not stable, I had to take in shady part-time jobs such as dating clubs. David became lonely and an alcoholic because of my unexpectedly busy schedule.
 
Finally, he had an attack of trigeminal neuralgia, and he had to grab a cab from Toyonaka to Kansai Airport and jump on the earliest flight of the day to go back home.
 
At the time, my refrigerator was in the second hand by a neighborhood electrician. The furniture was picked up from the road in Maruyama-cho.
 
After accumulating experience at the secretariat of an international conference, as a student interpreter, and as an IT system installer, I cleared the two-year minimum work experience requirement for the temporary staffing business, which was still open only to professionals at the time, and I joined Panasonic. I had always wanted to be a programmer, having taught myself the Basic language at the age of 14.
 
The Robotics Division was my first job, and was stable and on top of that, I accomplished quite a bit. I bult the software bug database from scratch in MS Access. At that time, few people understood SQL. I am really grateful to the Robotics Division.
 
During that time, from the age of 18, to 24... I was so busy. I had final come to relax when I turned 25, my second year in the Robotics Division. This is because night school takes 5 years to graduate instead of normal 4 years, and I went to the US for 2 years along the way, so I was in college for a total of 7 years. It took me this long till my finance stabled.
 
I did not attend the graduation ceremony. Even before graduation, I was already working as an member of society. I mean, I had been working since I was in high school. The event to celebrate my becoming an adult was a bit bland, and I felt like I had already become an adult a long time ago. It was like, "I've been an adult for a long time now. Why celebrate now?"
 
Since I was older than most students at the time of graduation, I was not hired as a new graduate. At that time, there was no such thing as a "second new graduate," and if you missed the age of 22, you would not get a second chance.
 
However, my University has a history as a national university that originally produced diplomats, many of the student part-timers worked at a prestigious news paper and such,  and it was standard practice to sliding up from part-time jobs, so my employment in robot labo was similar. Before graduating from university, I entered the company as a temporary worker, but two years later, following my engineer mentor, I had a contract with a research institute, not a division, and was working as a self-employed software engineer. At that time, my annual income was about 8 million yen at one point. Which is triple of what people earns.
 
It was like my hard work finally made sense.  In the development team, it was rare to go home in the light of day. Looking back on it now, it was black labor, but I was young, everyone around me was like that, and the phrase "Project X" by Miyuki Nakajima was running through my head like a drug, and we were all really motivated. We're going to make an amazing robot! We will change the world!  I mean it. 

In fact, college life and high school life were more difficult for me, so I didn't think of the hard work of the software industry as a problem.
 
Then came the news of my brother's death....
 
Just when I thought I could finally take a break and relax....
 
I had not seen my brother for 8 years... Those 8 years were the most turbulent period of my life. Fight or fleight? time.  I really had no time to breathe until then.
 
I didn't have a penny to spare, and of course, I never went back to my home town. I was safe in Osaka, I lived in a small apartment without a bath for 30,000 yen a month. My face was stern and scary, and I was like a different person than I am now.
 
My younger brother who died at that time... I saw him for the first time in eight years, but he was already cold. He looked like a man I did not know at all. It was not the face of the young brother I knew as a child, but that of an adult man....
 
What kind of life did my brother lead for the eight years before his death? 

I do not know.
 
So it is not surprising that I have great regret over my brother's death.
 
But did I do something wrong? No, I did only what anyone would have done in such a situation.
 
Such a tough childhood...working from high school, how many people can perform better than me? I can honestly say that there are very few people who could have done as well as I did in an environment where I was given,  no time, no money, or worse, even no loving parent.
 
Children cannot realize that their parent's demands are out of the ordinary.
 
They are unable to realize it.
 
So they have no choice but to keep on trying, as demanded.
 
I once passed out on a front door when I was 14 years old. It was overwork. I realized then that no one would help me when I was extremely overworked. This was when I was still obedient to my mother, obedient to my school teachers, obedient to what they told me to do, continuing to fulfill my roles, and living in 15-minute increments.
 
In other words, from that time on, I had sacrificed my health to do what I am expected to do.
 
Climbing is no different, and if you carelessly go along with a wrong partner, it could cost you your life.
 
In college, many of my classmates in the evening classes never graduated in the first place, and many of them dropped out and returned to their parents' homes. Those who attended college while working in government job generally chose to give up their college degrees. 

Some of them dropped off due to depression, and some of my classmates committed suicide. The only person who found a better job than I did was one who went on to work for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
 
So I made my best effort and my effort paid off....
 
Going to college was not what I wanted,  I was forced to do so by adults, but I finished. The price was a good health.
 
I also fulfilled my childhood dream of becoming an English speaker. The price was a life of poverty. It was a cheap price. The time was so enjoyable that my atopic dermatitis improved. Poverty did not bother me. I left Japan not being able to speak at all, but when I returned to Japan, I took the TOEIC score for the second time was  an almost perfect score of 925 (the perfect score at that time was 950).
 
I also fulfilled my dream of becoming a programmer. The price for this was IT black labor. This, too, did not bothered me too much. It was a time of recession I was just grateful to have a job in the first place.
 
At the age of 27, I received an annual income of 8 million yen, anyone would feel as proud as me if you were in my shoes....
 
But still, on a sudden death of my brother,
 
 I didn't see him for 8 years... 

It is true that the bereavement was unexpected and it occurred in a way that left me a big regret.
 
I sacrificed time with my family.  I am not sure if it should be called a sacrifice. I am not sure. My family functioned as the greatest burden of all for my life, if I were with them, I was not as successful I were then.
 
I don't remember a single dish my mother cooked for me, but I do remember the fudgy pancake I made with my brother when I was a little girl and we both were hungry. We just dissolved flour in water and pan baked it. That was the way we learned how to survive.
 
Could I have come to reunite with my brother in those 8 years before he passed away?
 
Non...
 
Unfortunately, that was impossible, no matter how strong I was.
 
Who, if not God, could have predicted my brother's sudden death at the age of 24?
 
It was not my fault as a child that I had an unhappy relationship with my family. Rather, it was the karma of my parents, who were only able to give me such a childhood.
 
My father is still alive and well, but he chose to live his own life instead of rising his children. This is simply irresponsible.
 

In such case of like single mother, usually grand parents would assist in traditional family sytem of Asia,  but in my case my grand mother didn't, I think, she was also helpless because the relationship between my mother and grandmother was very bad.
 
In fact, my grandmother seems like she tried once.  She took care of my sister as a baby. And my mother?  She was working an irregular and unstable job. My grandmother could not help my mother without self-sacrifice, so in the end, they broke up. Kids always pay the price.  I was the one who suffered the most, my young brother followed.
 
After much consideration, there was no way to help us as a kid, including government,  such as social work, to save my brother and me at an early age.
 
Both my brother and I had to save ourselves. I, with my schoolwork and my brother, with his swimming.
 
In such cases, the earlier one becomes aware of the situation, the better. 

I was able to realize that the boat I was on was a mud boat,  when I was in elementary school. My younger brother didn't become aware until he was well into high school. My younger sister didn't realize it until she was in her 20's and was driven to suicide.
 
I wanted to save my brother and sister.

Once I was on the lifeboat, I wanted to get back to my brother and then my sister on board. But I could not get back to my brother before his death.
 
So, in climbing, I would project my brother onto younger men, and I would do them a kindness that they didn't deserve. They took advantage of that. 

I have a tremendous amount of guilt feeling inside me.
 
But to say least, it's beyond me to get him on a life boat. 

But my sadness of loosing him before we became reunite is still there, un-erasable.

Those who take advantage of my kindness in the climbing, a shame on you. You should thank to my brother. My regret over my brother's death led me to act of over kindness in climbing.
 
No, the opposite... It was this sadness kept me from giving up on climbing in Fukuoka, which was already no fun, no life-enhancing.
 
I thought that there must be something I could do to help those stupid climbers. Such as going to crag without knowing how to rapple... I was still fooling my rational judgment.  Because my love to my family is so big.
 
If my brother had not died suddenly at a young age, I would not have thought that I should go follow the "hakua slub" multi pitch in Hiei, that was the worst failed climb in my climbing history.  I felt sorry to the guy who does not have a partner... I felt sorry that he only have irregular day-off... I felt sorry for him...was the reason I climbed with him.
 
I also would not have been guiding a man who had not even prepared a topo to Ogawayama.

All the other inappropriate actions I took, happened because I loved my brother so much.
 
My brother and I grew up looking exactly alike.
 

I was often mistaken for a boy.  But when we grew up, my brother was a different person. He was 6 feet tall and had an athletic physique with a super inverted triangle. He no longer looked anything like me.
 
Perhaps if he had become a climber, he would have been a good climber. He was not very smart, though.
 
My brother was two years younger than I. He died at the young age of 24.
 
I now know how deeply I loved my brother, after all the unpleasant climbing incidents.
 
 I came to know how deeply I loved my brother.


 This was what had to learn in my climbing. Now I am done.