under construction--------------------
■ Cam distrust
There is also a curious perversion. It is cam distrust. Is this not also due to old values that have not been updated?
If I tell people that I climb trad with cams, they respond with something like, "You're a daredevil!" while they are told to fall off and fall off 40-year-old rotten cut anchors (e.g., Mt. Ohe).
Would you rather casually fall on a 40 year old rotten bolt that no one knows who hammered it, and have it fall out and ground fall, or have a cam that you set fall out and ground fall?
Maybe it's a matter of taste in this area, but I'd still be more comfortable with it falling on the cam I set.
By the way, I have fallen on my own cam, but I have yet to have it fall out.
■ Other
Various other questionable events have occurred...
Happened recently. A climber who can only climb 3rd class at an open crag wants to climb 2 steps with no mats!
How cute,
A bolt in spite of a crack.
Or a bolt in a crack, or an artificial hold in an outcrop...
One climber belayed two climbers' leads.
Or, "I'm being belayed on a fulcrum, but the person belaying me doesn't even know it!
I'm short, and I'm going to train you with aids....
The last one is almost a death sentence.
The old aide route is probably over 40 years old when they bolted...because it was pre-freeing. In other words, ragged. And no matter how many short people are placed on the top step of the stapes, they can't reach what they can't reach.
This is something they don't seem to understand, even if they are intelligent enough to teach at Kyushu University...
Aide is that the degree of difficulty is always the distance. Anyone can easily find out what is in the grades of A1, A2, A3, and so on, if they look into the contents of the grades. And they are willing to do it to the little rookie. Can't you see that this is the same as saying, "I'll kill you, with pleasure"? Even an A-zero in free play can be done if you can reach it, but not if you can't.
I was also told that I could take a climber who belayed two climbers by himself while I was leading another climber. If you have to climb with such a ton of belaying, you shouldn't climb. I can understand if two climbers belay one climber, but one climber belaying two climbers is not possible in lead climbing. Even when raising the second climber, it is the second climber, and even if the second climber falls on a slack rope, he/she will not be seriously injured.
Taking all of the above into consideration, it was our side that was "taking them there".
So, in Kyushu, there are many people whose understanding is inverted...perverted...and their inversion of understanding is often to the extent that they would notice something strange if they thought about it in a normal, serious, and logical way.
In short, they are not thinking about it, but are just following the atmosphere around them, expecting that if they follow him, they will be taught for free because he is a climber of yesteryear....
In other words, there is a strong sense that the newcomers are completely fooled by the atmosphere.
They don't have the skills, they can't teach, so they look up to those who can't teach them...those who can't verbalize...and they go climbing, unaware that they are being unfairly patronized by those who are taking them along. The person who is taking you climbing has no skills and is literally risking his/her life, so the feeling is not a lie.
On the other hand, the newcomers are being sold something for which they have no gratitude and for which they have to pay a lot of money.
Because of this situation, it is better not to join a mountaineering club. If you join, you might be killed. However, there is no organization that teaches climbing properly, and you don't hear of anyone like Mr. Sugino, who is a good climbing guide.
It is rather the association that is spreading wrong techniques such as belaying two climbers by oneself, grip belaying in spite of ATC, belaying a lead climber on a fulcrum, and so on.
...but those who want to learn the techniques from now on have nowhere to go.