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■ 5.10s are dangerous.
By alpine logic, the rate at which free climbing routes are being built is mostly on beginner routes in the 5.9 to 5.10s. (Probably because many of the original alpine climbers cannot climb high difficulty free routes at all.)
Also, many of the aid routes are replacement routes.
The most miserable is the 10c route on Happo-dake, which was rebolted every other meter.
Since the routes are not rebolted by climbers who are capable of climbing today's standard climbing grades, they stop to think about replacing old bolts, which is a waste of rock.
When they proudly unveiled the challenge, I couldn't believe my eyes and wondered if they knew what they were doing. It was because they went with the so-called mountaineering group. They were so confident that I couldn't say anything.
The biggest difference between alpine and free climbing routes
Is it ground up or rappel down? Of course. Of course. Free climbing has rappels and ground-ups, but alpine climbing has only ground-ups.
What does this show up in? It is the way to seize the clipping opportunity.
Alpine climbers base themselves on ridge climbing. The base of the slope is basically a slope where you can't fall, but there are places where you can fall.
For example, a scaffold board placed at a height of 30 meters is dangerous, but not if it is placed at a height of 1 meter. Therefore, it is not so much the degree of difficulty but the degree of danger that is the problem, and the mistake beginners tend to make is to climb higher and higher without taking a fulcrum because it is easy in alpine climbing. In other words, runabouts.
On my first alpine ice route, from Jogosawa to the summit of Mt. Iōdake (硫黄岳), I went over a big waterfall at the crux of the route without a rope. However, it was only that one time, and it was my first time and I was a very beginner.
On alpine routes, there are usually no fulcrums except at the danger points, i.e., before the crux. In other words, where there is a governor, you don't take it because you are climbing comfortably. Of course, while the ground is close, it is the same as free climbing. (In climbing, the lower the height, the more dangerous. (In climbing, the lower the height, the more dangerous, because you can fall to the ground.)
Free climbing, on the other hand, is climbing on a slope that is absolutely unclimbable without a rope in the first place.
Therefore, free climbing grades start with a 5, like 5.XX, because 3rd and 4th grades do not require a rope.
So in free climbing, the assumption is that you can fall anywhere. That's where alpine people can't switch.... They don't fall in such a place, so they think it's not worth it.
The conversion table that says a 50-meter ascent takes one for 3rd class, two for 4th class, and three for 5.xx is a way of thinking that does not reflect the current state of the rock at all. No matter what grade you are, if you are about to die if you fall, you do one before the crux. If it's a cam, it's two, just in case.
On the other hand, in free climbing starting from 5th grade, where the assumption is that you can fall anywhere, the premise of free climbing is that a governor is a clipping opportunity. However, in most of the routes where the gabba is a clipping opportunity, it is a skip bolt.
As a result, it is a free climbing route, but for some reason, it is not allowed to fall down.
Take, for example, Indian Summer in Yonagaya. I saw a climber who crashed on the third pin and broke his lumbar vertebrae on the first day because the second and third pins were run-outs.
Or, for example, the eight-sided Cappuccino 5.9.
I'm an old lady climber and I was able to climb it onsite against a total stranger belayer (i.e. someone I still don't trust), so I guess 5.9 is fine... but what the heck! I thought.
Yesterday, I heard that they only allow newcomers to climb top rope. So they should have put "top-rope assignment" in the topo.
If it was a 5.9 in the best part of the crag, a newcomer to the crag would usually be happy to climb it.
As an aside, when I was climbing, there was a group of men who work as store girls for a famous outdoor wear manufacturer that everyone knows, but they couldn't climb the same 5.9, even young boys, at all, and it looked like there was nothing but TR!
Well, I had to face some unexpected and terrible situations because of the quality of the fulcrums, which are 40 years old, and the quality of the challenges, which are made according to the alpine logic.
No, it's more accurate to say that I didn't have anything but bad experiences.
My heart was frayed and I became depressed....
In Kyushu, they seemed to expect further administrative reform from me. I wish local climbers would reform themselves before outsiders point such things out to them. The fact of the matter is that we did not fix the problem until outsiders and strangers pointed it out to us.