Hello 2020 summer!
I have gone to Hyugami in the first season in 2020 summer! Japan had a long long rainy season this summer, it was very long, so vegetable prices went so high, a cucumber costed a 98 yen(a dollar) !
I had waited so long to go to Hyugami since I hate going to climbing gym which is only expensive... I don't feeling I am learning enough when I go to the gym.
Wow!! A Local climber's club!!!
To my surprise, I was sooooo happy that local climber's club had stared in the Hyugami Crag! It was just started so the design of the membership card is still tentative. They are looking for a climber who can design very good one! I personally like the Japanese brash letters "Hyugami" is "日向神"。
the membership is 1000yen (about 10 dollar) a year, and it goes to the toilet fund and the bolt fund.
Long 5.9 is very comfortable
I climbed with the developer climbers this day at the sunset area, and they put up draws already for me, and found the long 5.9 ”Aoba wakaba" was very comfortable, and the grade is just right also, the protection distance was good.
Someone wanted to climbed TR the route I led, so I rented her a rope. I was a bit unconformable with her belay, since she seemed totally unaware of the risks... but this is only 5.9, I can not fall... if the grading is proper... I accepted her unsure belay. I don't trust any lady older than my age...since they are usually too get used to male domination, and forgotten about they have their own responsibility... especially when belaying...
The link to the topo is here....
I led also the next 5.10a and that was a different belayer also new belayer so just to make sure she catches me, I gave a one hangdog, so I will know she sure take me. This one was also good, 5.10a!
The routes in this area is all very well bolted since this is 2009 development.
Rain make rock loose
since we had so much rain in this July and June, there were loose rock and the lower area had a lot of already fallen rocks... this climber is climbing to get rid of loose rock... but it was such a great look on him...
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| me leading 5.9 warming up route |
In the afternoon we went down to lower sunset area, and it was very hot that day, I run out of my water even though I had 1 L with me.... so my performance was not good... I felt very tired also powerless... even though I did "Himawari 5.10a"
and "Tuyuake sengen 5.10c" I was already too tired.
The guest house
on my way home, I stopped by the guest house my friend Jiro, runing, to say hello... it was so good to know they are OK with this covid 19 crisis... He had a one guest, who said he is staying there already for over 1 month... a long term stay! So I was quit impressed... Jiro gave me a lot of Myouga, a wild herb, to bring back home, and a new cat was soooo cute, the cat's name was Kojiro, which means a little Jiro...
Very hot and humid
The sunset came when I was at Jiro's and the sum was hazy... with humid...
I just think this is not the right season for slab climbing...
It was such a peaceful fun summer climbing day!
