First Hyugami in the season!

Hello 2020 summer! 

I have gone to Hyugami in the first season in 2020 summer!  Japan had a long long rainy season this summer, it was very long, so vegetable prices went so high, a cucumber costed a 98 yen(a dollar) ! 

I had waited so long to go to Hyugami since I hate going to climbing gym which is only expensive... I don't feeling I am learning enough when I go to the gym. 

Wow!! A Local climber's club!!!

To my surprise, I was sooooo happy that local climber's club had stared in the Hyugami Crag!  It was just started so the design of the membership card is still tentative. They are looking for a climber who can design very good one! I personally like the Japanese brash letters "Hyugami" is "日向神"。　

the membership is 1000yen (about 10 dollar) a year, and it goes to the toilet fund and the bolt fund. 

Long 5.9 is very comfortable 

I climbed with the developer climbers this day at the sunset area, and they put up draws already for me, and found the long 5.9　”Aoba wakaba"  was very comfortable, and the grade is just right also, the protection distance was good. 

Someone wanted to climbed TR the route I led, so I rented her a rope.   I was a bit unconformable with her belay, since she seemed totally unaware of the risks... but this is only 5.9, I can not fall... if the grading is proper... I accepted her unsure belay.  I don't trust any lady older than my age...since they are usually too get used to male domination, and forgotten about they have their own responsibility... especially when belaying... 

The link to the topo is here....

http://k1hut.yuki-mura.net/benzaiteniwasunset.html

I led also the next 5.10a and that was a different belayer also new belayer so just to make sure she catches me, I gave a one hangdog, so I will know she sure take me.  This one was also good, 5.10a! 

The routes in this area is all very well bolted since this is 2009 development. 

Rain make rock loose

since we had so much rain in this July and June, there were loose rock and the lower area had a lot of already fallen rocks... this climber is climbing to get rid of loose rock... but it was such a great look on him... 

me leading 5.9 warming up route

In the afternoon we went down to lower sunset area, and it was very hot that day, I run out of my water even though I had 1 L with me.... so my performance was not good... I felt very tired also powerless... even though I did "Himawari 5.10a"

 and "Tuyuake sengen 5.10c" I was already too tired. 

The guest house 

on my way home, I stopped by the guest house my friend Jiro, runing, to say hello... it was so good to know they are OK with this covid 19 crisis... He had a one guest, who said he is staying there already for over 1 month... a long term stay! So I was quit impressed...  Jiro gave me a lot of Myouga, a wild herb, to bring back home, and a new cat was soooo cute, the cat's name was Kojiro,  which means a little Jiro... 

Very hot and humid

The sunset came when I was at Jiro's and the sum was hazy... with humid... 

I just think this is not the right season for slab climbing...  

It was such a peaceful fun summer climbing day!   

Working in Sky Tea Guest House

Temporary job
I have been working as a temporary guest house keeper in Sky Tea Guest House, for 12 days.

https://www.skyteahouse.com/en-facilities

This guest house is in 40 min drive away from Hyugami Crag but the Owner Jiro, speaks English, since he has done travelling around the world for about 6 years. He says he's done with it and now he wants to start a family.

So he was on his way for his bride and I took care of the house while he is away. The place is bit far away from the crag but I had such a great farm stay!

Hyugami Crag and world climbers

The Hyugami Crag is the crag that all Kyusyu climbers gather... and Fukuoka, the capital city of Kyusyu, is attracting a lot of foreigners, many are on south Asian world tours...  so I thought Kyusu has a potential to be a gateway for travelling climbers also.

Since world travelers are on "general" world tour,  so to say. Climbing trip in series  is like "climbing specific" world tour.

When I went to Laos, two years ago, I met so many climbers on world tour, connecting, Himaraya, China, South Korea, Taiwan, and Thai and Laos.  Climbers are on "climbing specific " world tour.

I did it in miniature version last year, I rock climbed in Laos, then ice climbed in Japan, then went to ice climb in Korea, in February. (https://allnevery.blogspot.com/2018/02/blog-post.html)

I think the world tour is getting popular and popular among European and American people, as we move toward freedom economically.

Tea traveler; travelling as pilgrimage

Not just climbing, I met a woman who were chasing after the places for tea... a french woman was visiting a tea source land, like Sizuoka, Kyoto, and Yame.  She was going after the history of tea, and tea has spread from India to China, then to Japan... she was experiencing the history of tea also, by visiting place to place.

I think this style of world tour will get people more reason to go travelling... to dig deeper and deeper the theme, what ever the theme it is... for me, it just happen to be "climbing", and for her it happen to be "tea".  I am so sure that people will soon chose specific theme to travel the world for.

I myself think, just a general world tour is boring... to be honest.

I have done travelling on my business in my 20's a lot... involving like one month stay in Intercontinental hotel... not just once... in series.  I hired a translator and driver and visited the company executives for marketing researches. It was interesting and I learned a lot but that was all... so I am more knowledgeable on the world than an average Japanese but I saw what's common than what's different... so I lost my appetite for trip. I am more skeptical on a dreaming of luxury world trip around the world. I guess I was lucky that I was given the opportunity to experience such thing at my early age...

Anyway, so far, I am dreaming something more worthwhile, or what I think worthwhile...

... which is to increase "world travelling climbers in South Asia"!

I hope this working at Jiro's guest house had become a baby step toward my dream to come true...

One day, I hope Hyugami crag to be included in Hymaraya, China, South Korea, and Japan, then, Thai, and Laos! Maybe Alaska!

The general information on this guest house is here;
https://climbhyugami.blogspot.com/2019/06/climber-friendly-guest-house-in-yame.html

Free Accomodtion　（plaese google translate)
https://www.skyteahouse.com/post/free_accomodation

 Jiro on a small boulder in his rice and tea field.

 Jiro's Kitchen. Classical Japan.

 Chekens are let play all day at his garden and they produce about 5 eggs a day.

Our main source of protein.

 The trampoline in front yard was the best place to sleep unless it rains...

 In a morning dawn... with chickens.  They will wake you up!

 The house is located in the end of Kasahara village.

No house further more... so, it is pretty isolated.

There is one house down below, and old farmer couples are living there... they are so nice visit each other every day!

 Guest are having fun feeding chickens.

  A couple fixing something to eat...

 Traditional Farmer's dinner, vegan!

Climbing in a secret area.

 A tiny frog in the tea leaves...

 Dinner is usually fun time together.

Bolt Standardization ボルト整備

■　空き家再生プロジェクト　→　ボルト基金

私のクライマーのゲストハウスと言う夢は、実は、物件取得と開業資金で躓いていました。

　物件取得　→　岩場まで歩いて行けるところに空き家がない！

　開業資金　→　開業資金を銀行から借りれないだろう（フリーランスで社会的信用がない）

というので、最近は、一生懸命、開業資金融資関係のセミナーに出ようとしていましたが、なんと！

■　出会い

EnjoyWorksさんの空き家再生Project in 福岡の　参加前日に、奥日向神キャンプ場のオーナーと出会いました。

奥日向神キャンプ場を取得した人が現れた！神の使い？！

となると、私はオーナーにならなくていい！日中家に縛り付けられる（と言っても、チェックインとチェックアウトくらいだが）ゲストハウスオーナーをしなくていい！

となり、一気に肩の荷が下りた！

となると、すべきことは、ボルト整備です！

誰が来ても大丈夫なように、国際スタンダードでボルト整備をしなくては！UIAAの助言はすでに取り付けてある！

ボルト整備にはお金がかかるので、日向神のボルト整備には、

　クラウドファウンディング

がいいと思っていますので、経験者談、求む！

相談したいことは、

　集めたお金を管理する法人の形態

です。日向神だけのボルト基金としたいと思っています。受益者負担の原則からです。

My dream of having a climbers guest house like GCH in Laos had 2 problem. 

 No1:  There is no old empty house called Akiya near crags... 

 No2:  No money to buy the property. 

But I must be blessed by God of climbing!  I met someone who acquired "Oku Hyugami Camp site " which locates 5 min walk from the Hyugami crag, just few days ago! 

It was on my way back from regular climbing day and my partner said, "There's people, let's go and say hello to them! "

Whoa!  They were a new owner of the camp site, best location for climber's residence! 

So now I don't need to buy the property! No need of money! 

Now what I need to do is 

  Fund rising for bolts．

I think for this, using crowd funding is the best. 

I am seeking an advice for what style of organization is the best choice for fund rising for bolt  standardization. 

It is important for Hyugami crag to have internationally  standardized anchors as you see below. 

What we have is OK not the best. 

This is what we have now

This is what we want