Slack=出す、です。出さなくていいって書いてあります。
小さい人＝ミニマムスラック 引かれるままに動く
6.8 kg以上重たい人＝ミニマムスラック＋小さいジャンプ
9.1Kg以上重たい人＝少々出してもいい＋絶対ジャンプ
私が人工壁で落ちるの怖いのは当然で、重たいビレイヤーにぱっつんビレイされると、壁にぶつかることになるから。
6.8 kg以上重たい人＝ミニマムスラック＋小さいジャンプ
9.1Kg以上重たい人＝少々出してもいい＋絶対ジャンプ
私が人工壁で落ちるの怖いのは当然で、重たいビレイヤーにぱっつんビレイされると、壁にぶつかることになるから。
大体クライミングの大会でビレイヤーとして抜擢されることが多いのは体の小さい男性です…。 クライマーより軽いほうがビレイは確実に安全です。
やっぱりパートナーは、大体プラマイ５キロ以内の体重差の人が安心です…
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A common misconception is that more slack equals a softer catch. Yet in that scenario the climber usually free falls until the rope comes tight, then abruptly stops at the end of the rope.
Here are some guidelines to giving a softer catch: If you are lighter than your climber, focus on having minimal slack, and be prepared to be pulled up into the wall. Don’t resist! Even being 50 pounds lighter is not enough to pull against the catch. If you are a comparable weight to your climber (+/- 15 pounds) be prepared with minimal slack and “go with” or give a slight jump when the rope comes taut. This will help decelerate your climber slowly, instead of abruptly stopping the person. If you are heavier than your climber (>20 pounds) you should introduce slightly more slack and you MUST jump when the rope comes taut. Slightly more slack gives you the time necessary to react and jump at the appropriate moment when you feel the tug on your belay loop from your rope tightening. If the timing of your jump is off, the catch will not be as soft as it could be.
ーーーーーーーー
A common misconception is that more slack equals a softer catch. Yet in that scenario the climber usually free falls until the rope comes tight, then abruptly stops at the end of the rope.
Here are some guidelines to giving a softer catch: If you are lighter than your climber, focus on having minimal slack, and be prepared to be pulled up into the wall. Don’t resist! Even being 50 pounds lighter is not enough to pull against the catch. If you are a comparable weight to your climber (+/- 15 pounds) be prepared with minimal slack and “go with” or give a slight jump when the rope comes taut. This will help decelerate your climber slowly, instead of abruptly stopping the person. If you are heavier than your climber (>20 pounds) you should introduce slightly more slack and you MUST jump when the rope comes taut. Slightly more slack gives you the time necessary to react and jump at the appropriate moment when you feel the tug on your belay loop from your rope tightening. If the timing of your jump is off, the catch will not be as soft as it could be.
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