■ Information
OK. There is
not much information on Rock Climbing in Japan.
I only have one year experience on free climbing but considering that, I have rather many experience than most others.
So here is the explanation. Note this is only for people live in Kanto, near Tokyo metropolitan area.
■ TOPO
The most important TOPO book is
"Nihon 100 Iwaba"(Japanese 100 crag 日本百岩場).
■ Destination
1) The biggest destination is
Ogawayama（小川山）. Over 700 routes in one place with accommodation(camping). May to until snow.
2) The second biggest destination is
Mizugaki （瑞牆） but all trad not bolted. Recently, a great topo book was published so many people started to go there. (only sold in climbing gym. Not in amazon)
3) Other Japanese crag are rather small or only for a particular season.
In winter,
Yugawara maku Iwa 湯河原幕岩 --- many beginners
Jyogasaki 城ケ崎 --- by the ocean
Jyoyama 城山 --- chemical
In Spring and Fall.
Okutama 奥多摩 --- they have a small crags in many separate area
Syonin iwa 聖人岩 -- limestone
Ten now iwa 天王岩 --- bolt
Koizawa Buttless 越沢バットレス--- alpine multi pitch
for Crack climbing
Yukawa 湯川 -- near Ogawayama
Jyogasaki 城ケ崎
Shosenkyo 昇仙峡 -- hidden
Some hidden crag near Kofu
Kabuto Iwa 兜岩 --- there were a fire a few years ago and banned but everyone goes
Shosenkyo 昇仙峡 --- Forgotten, but Yoshida san was developing. Granite.
For alpine training
Hiwada 日和田 --- many beginners every weekend
Koutakuji 広沢寺 ---- same
Adera 阿寺 --- new area
Saiko 西湖 --- this is close by my place
Mt.Mitsutoge 三つ峠 --- the classic. Great view of Mt. Fuji
So if you are a climber living in Tokyo for instance, this is what you would do;
■ Model course in a year
In May, the high season for climbing starts. Let's go to Ogawayama before rainy season starts. The crag in Okutama is also close by and comfortable, so maybe you go to Koizawa buttless for an easy crag and to check your ropework. This is good rehearsal especially when you have a big plan to do alpine multi pitch at Japanese Alps in summer. Many alpine climbers goes to check.
Keep going to Ogawayama every weekend till rainy season starts. In rainy season, everyone plans a crag but since rain, you have to have a
plan B and that is often,
"Base Camp"（ベースキャンプ） in Iruma city, the climbing gym that Yuji Hirayama runs.
After rainy season, you would still go to Ogawayama in July to September. This year it rained nearly every weekends and people who put up a huge tent in Ogawayama, staying for 2 weeks was not comfortable at all... but this is what they do normally. 2 weeks Summer camp. The cost is not that too high if you stay in your own tent and sleeping bag.
(see here for the cost.)
Also, high mountains like Japanese alps are climbed in mid summer. Also since it rains so much in summer here, Sawanobori, i.e. shower climbing is a good option since you get wet anyway. There are many destination in Japan but you must have a different equipment and different training.
See
my shower climbing page here.
See
my Ogawayama camp in this season report here.
If you are trad climber, Mizugaki is better option than Ogawayama since less crowded.
In Fall, when Ogawayama and Mizugaki is too cold to climb, people starts to go warmer place like Yugawara maku iwa and Jyogasaki. Yugawara is well bolted and has many easy route. But no accommodation facilities, you can not even camp there so many sleep in a car.
So if you crag in Japan, having a car you can sleep in it, is important. Mine is all flat when back seat is put down and there are enough space for 2.
You'll go to other crag like Okutama, which is nearby, when you don't have enough time and money to travel long.
I live in Kofu, the first rural city toward Ogawayama direction from Tokyo, one and a half hour train ride away from there, so I am closer to many crag than most people and I go crag to Kofu crag. I don't go to Okutama, since it does not make sense to me go closer to Tokyo, when there are some crags to go closer to my place.
From the second week in December, usually, ice season starts. Ice climbing is an expensive activities and you need different equipments, so people who does not climb ice, they go for Jyogasaki and Yugawara Maku Iwa in winter.
You can do both if you like. I am going to climb ice in the weekdays, and in weekends I'll go to Jyogasaki this winter.
Free climbers and Alpine Climbers are different species.. many free climbers do not climb mountains so they are not at all interested in the mountains... then just omit Japanese alps, and ice, and shower climbing.
Among people who climb mountains, meaning they go climb Japanese alps, but most of them avoid technical routes since they don't have enough skills to climb anything over 5.9. In Japanese technical routes, it depends on a route though, it is said you have to have 5.11 to be on a safe side, if you are a first climber. If you are second, you have to be able to climb 5.9 without hesitating. 5.9 seem easy job, but not in Japan and especially with a heavy pack on your back.
The Shower climbers and the rock climbers do not mix, neither. Shower climbing requires a different equipments and rock climber usually feel scared to climb wet rock in the river. But I found shower climbing to be fun. and a lot easier to climb. But I must mention, there is no radio reaching to the valley, so it is the most risky kind of climbing once there is an accident, it is not a an easy job to call a help.
So I am a one of rare dying species of all round climber, I do rock, ice, shower, free.
■ Photos
Heres so Photos I had taken in the each crag to give you an idea.
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| January in Shosenkyo wide crack 5.9 |
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| Shosenkyo jam jam 84 multi pitch crack |
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| Feb.Ice in Minamisawa kotaki in Yatsugatake classV |
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| March Ice Route in Yatsugatake Class III |
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- Aprl. Yukawa Crack Degenner 5.8
|
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| May in Ogawayama 5.10d |
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| June Alpine route class III |
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| June in Kofu Makuiwa 5.10a |
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| July in Ogawayama |
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| Ogawayama Rayback 5.9 in September |
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| Mizugaki in Oct. 5.10c wide crack |
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| Koutakuji Class IV |
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| Yugawara Maku Iwa In November |
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| Base Camp climing gym in Iruma city |
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| mars 5.14a in Jyogasaki |
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| Syonin Iwa in Okutama limestone |
■ Useful site
Climbing Net this is the site everyone uses.
■ Accomodation and transportation
The crags are in rural sites that means you really must have a
car.
And accommodation in the rural area is also nearly
zero, except for camper's site.
So the most climber has a tent or they simply go back home to sleep.
The bast base place will be like Kofu city, or Hokuto city, if you have a car.
■ Partner Finding
You must have a partner. Japanese are shy people they don't get close to each other so easily.
Partner finding could be one obstacle if you are alone to come here to climb in Japan.
One thing is calling a local climbing gym but not likely. The other thing is calling local Alpine club, but also not likely.
This may be why young people go for
bouldering not rope climbing.
Also you will amaze to see so many
over 60's are climbing.
Contact me if you like to have one near Kofu. I may be able to help or find someone for you.
