I have gone to my Second time Mikura Climbing last weakend.Day 1 A route
Tchibirino Crack 5.10a hand TR X 3 times
Day 2 B route
@Aojiro hang
Mukade Traverse 5.9 wide TR
Rap Crack 5.10b TR
Pampukin 5.10d TR
Solger crack 5.10a TR
@Gensuke Kuzure
Hip Crack 5.9 TR
It was such a fine day on Sunday and were nobody in the crag.
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| they have English sign that sounds natural |
I realized it is more like foot jam than hand jam... I am already good at hand jamming.
I need more of foot jam otherwise, I don't feel secure at all... my butt is too heavy to bring up just by arms.
The second day, we went for variety of routes and was good.
The more I climb, the more I feel comfortable but I think Mikura's grading is 2 or 3 grades harder...
hand jam --> OK
foot jam --> sometimes bad
wide ---> 5.8
chimny ---> OK
finger jam --> starting
fist jam --> OK
sam cam ---> OK
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| Hip crack 5.9 |
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| Topo |
This is the Japanese Topo book. Hand written. Notice No.6 is the Hip crack 5.9. The topo is so hard to match to the real rock so you will have to develop matching skills too.
The topo book is sold at Visitor center at 1500 yen.
Note: High Speed road 3750 + 550 x2 + 6200 yen
Gas 6000 yen
Rack more than one set
60m rope
Free camping site