Grief
So this is the 7 stages of grief, and what I lost in my case, 5 years ago, was climbing.
I think I failed to replace it to something that worth to me.
When I had to quite the ballet, my hobby of 20 years, I've found mountaineering instead so it was easier to let go.
The hard time I am having this time to find something new to work on, not climbing certainly, something to suits my current lifestyle...
I am having a hard time finding that, something... perhaps Buddhism can be my next passion?
Is passion the Buddhist attachment?
I guess I am an originally passionate person, I was often described as
ambitious
in my climbing and I was feeling how so? since the climber like me, a very slow starter will never be the one to accomplish anything that is remarkable...
My experience in climbing were all so humble... but I tried to stick to the orthodox, like learning to use pitons, then learned to climb in aid, then, ice, snow, then free, I never tried to skip the steps that I must follow. It my motto.
The young people can not step up... a wrong teaching with a fake mentor
The surprising things to me was that a lot of young people with a better qualification than me seemed to struggle to get what I had get as a climber, for example,
they can only climb 5.12 but does not know about the rope drag... a long draw is appropriate to use sometimes and they can not detect that
or
wetting rope by himself
does not know to prepare topo guide book,
or
saying he wants to climb V15 without a mat(crash pads) when he can only climb v7
or
wants to go the routes with loose rocks...
seems like so much is missing... the proper knowledge.
I was avoiding those climbers without hardwork of knowledge, such as reading books... but just too many of them I am seeing almost 99% are such people.
Also, older climbers are people without up-to-date knowledge, like using cut anchor forever... haven't anyone told them it is not used anymore? Why me?
I think Japanese country side had some time lag from the mainland Japan but 10 years time lag might be reasonable, but not 40 years... that must be a result of lack of diligence.
The lack of diligence and plenty of prides
So sadly, I must conclude, in Kyusyu, the country side of Japan, has only too much pride, not enough hard work. They may put their effort on physical strengths but that is not at all enough... you need to know and think. Deep thinking is missing.
Is this the proper environment for a safe climber or to raise kids with next generation climbing?
Perhaps no.
So this environment is the strongest reason why I want to stop climbing.
Young men, Go to Hokuto!
I will strongly recommend that anybody with good potential, move to Hokuto city in Yamanashi. Where so many Piolet'o Dor winner live, there perhaps you might find a good mentor.
The basic skill required is that you can easily climb 5.12 and carry 40 kg pack, which is minimum requirements.
There, we have Ogawayama, and Mizugaki, and Mizugaki is one of the great crack crag in Japan.
This is me in Mizugaki, and even a climber like me can climb then anybody can. I don't understand why young men are just being used by old weak fake mentors.
https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/japan/mizugaki-yama
Safe to fall... goto Laos
The problem of young climbers to stand on his own is that we don't really have a crag that we can fall with safety also with proper grading... that is, beginner climbers are less skilled at "fall", or knowing if it is OK to fall. Fall is conditional.
Good falling is a skill, you can not certainly fall with very light belayer since you will put the person in risk.
Some people break the neck by hitting a fallen climber...
I was in a greater risk of this but most young climbers do not understand so they want me as a partner, but I am not their mom... they fall so easily and take it for granted that I catch it with ease. It is sometimes very dangerous to me, especially a heavy climber...
These kind of knowledge were norm in GCH, or perhaps any place except Japan.
Perhaps this can be also the sign of lack of proper climbing education or maybe lack of climbing intelligence.
If I can climb in Laos with English speaking climbers, anybody can.