Now I am fully ready to explain what to expect in Fukuoka as a climber.
So let me introduce what would be like a climbing trip in Fukuoka if you ever visit here as a climber.
■ Airport is 20 min from downtown
The most noticeable merit of Fukuoka as a destination is that the airport is so close by!
Narita(Tokyo) is so far from anything... 1:30 to the downtown Tokyo and 4 hours to Kofu, 5hours and a half, minimum from Nagano(where Ogawayama is).
Fukuoka International Airport is so close to the downtown and the city is full of things to see. So even if you get stuck by rain, there is a plenty of things to do.
You will have two climbing gym in a waking distance. Here I list the climbing gym of the down town.
1) Bravo It is not the best gym but it is in fashion district.
2) Bigfoot same.
Outdoor shop.
1) Rarry glass The oldest shop around the town. There is monbell, Patagonia, North Face and the others near by.
When you want to enjoy shopping, Goto Daimyou district. That is the fashion district.
You should eat Ramen at Ichran and try eating in famous "Yatai" outside pop up food court in Hakata.
Ichiran is original from Fukuoka.
■ Hyugami in Yame
The most popular crag for sport climber is Hyugami, 2 hour car ride. It's in country side and the place is known for a produce of top quality green tea.
Hyugami has a multi-pitches and short. My first climbing in Hyugami was Aino area (Area of love) . I climbed 5.9 and 5.10a. The bolt distance is kind of far but it is OK.
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| There is a multi-pitches in this rock |
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| Aino Area |
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| Easy Multi pitches 5.7 or less |
You can camp in Campsite but climber usually just camp around the corner without any permission nor admission, but to do that, you'd better get a local's advice.
For photos goto my site from here.
■ Onigahana crag
Locals go climb Hyugami for a day climb but we do have smaller crags without driving so far..
I recommend Onigahana since the view is superb in sunny day. It only 1 hour drive from down town.
The bolts are good but if you are not get used to the style you may find it difficult... the bolt are good but the rock surface sometimes need more clearing!
So start from easy piece. Japanese nature is so lively, weeds get started so easily.
Miharashi Crag is only 10 min away and that is cozy nice crag. More clean than Onigahana.
■ Aburayama kawa Crag
This is even closer. 30 min drive from downtown. But you have to walk 30min in the woods.
This one is small and cozy crag with brand new bolts. Grading is a bit high compared to international grade. I can climb 5c in Laos but not 5c here. (5c=5.9)
Nice thing is that you can top-rope any routes here.
■ Honjyo
Honjyo is in Oita and it is kind of far from here but many climbers visit Honjyo.
It is limb stone and the town welcomes climbers so you can stay so cheaply.
■ Nodake
Nodake is another sport route. It is in Nagasaki and is's about 3 hour drive from Fukuoka.
Also Lime stone and well bolted(Japan Free Climbing association has done the crag)
■ Mt Hiei
Mt. Hiei is more like Yosemite than just a crag, it is more like mountain. and the bolted sooooo farrrrr apart... is was said like if you are climbing 50 m, 3rd grade(in alpine grade), there is only 1 bolts, 4th grade, 2 bolts, 5th(start of decimal grade) 3 bolts.
So if you are a pure sport climber you'll be terrified! Never trust the topo since their standard is 50 years old and out of dated! They list 5.3 meaning 5.7. So when they list 5.7, it is 5.9 or could be 5.10a in modern day, i.e. today.
But the place is beautiful and climb is good with nice friction. Plus there is nice climbers guest house called Iori.
There would be a lot of boulders too.
■ The city Fukuoka
When you look at climbing in Japan, Fukuoka is NOT No1 destination, I would say. I would say Mizugaki is now the best destination in Japan and Mizugaki and Ogawayama is close by. But to get there it will be a lot of time and distance. and I you go there all the way, you might want to stay longer like 2 weeks.
On the contrary, Fukuoka is No5 size of city of Japan.(No1 is Tokyo, 2nd Osaka, 3rd Nagoya, 4th Kyoto, 5th Sapporo or Fukuoka) , so it is easy to get around.
I have been climbing in Fukuoka and I actually started to think it is OK to be a climber here, it is just a different type. You got to be a crack climber to climb in Mizugaki, but you can climb a lot of face here. You will develop strong finger and good move solution skill here.
Crag is near by and there is a lot of good food in Fukuoka, like famous Ichiran Ramen Noodle.
Fukuoka is a capital of Kyusyu and Kyusyu is known as a holiday destination for the people in big cities like in Tokyo and Osaka.
So tourist- wise, it is even better than going to Tokyo I suppose. It is more like escape from a big city and going to Nature.