As I grow as a climber, I noticed that a jag in the climbing route equals to a bolt.
Meaning they skip a bolt there, since there is a jag, and since it is not likely to fall.
Likeliness of fall
But the likeliness of a fall is depend on your skill.
Like Alex need zero bolts in El Cap as a 900 m high boulder...free soloed. IF he insists minimum bolts in El cap, and there is no bolts there, there is no one who can climb the Elcap except for him.
So the theory of putting a bolt depending on how good the holds are, is denied ultimately.
Expectation
I often hear people say, "This is easy. Normal climber is not going to fall usually." But I have seen many immature climbers, fall on where "normal" climber never fall... first of all, what is "normal" here... who is judging "normal "and "usually"?
So the theory of putting a bolt depending on how good the holds are, is denied ultimately.
Expectation
I often hear people say, "This is easy. Normal climber is not going to fall usually." But I have seen many immature climbers, fall on where "normal" climber never fall... first of all, what is "normal" here... who is judging "normal "and "usually"?
I have seen "a young man" falling in the first clip of gym lead wall which usually meant easy jag. Because in the gym, to avoid injuries, they usually put difficult part(crux) on top of the wall not in the beginning. Is he exception?
The 5th grade
Plus, 5.XX means you need a rope for safety by definition. Fun climbing needs safety at first them pride and ego second. So if you don't need the bolt you can just skip it. If you want to climb unsafely, it is your freedom but you can not force to the others...especially the climbers of lower climbing skills. Everyone spend some time as a beginner. Be nice to the ones who follow your pass.
Laos
I had so much fun in Laos and their placement of bolts were safety first. And even 5.13 climbers seemed to enjoy the climb. Death-wishing climb and fun climb for regular people are different.
Climb for everyone! Not just for experts!