Draft Table of Contents for an Instructor's Instructional Manual for Climbing
This is a full application from the Tennis Instructor's Instructional Manual. I have stared tennis lately as my rehabilitation of my dislocated knee. I was in Tennis club when I was in Junior high school, and was a captain. To my surprise, in tennis, teaching methoed have improved tremendously... when I was a kid, there were no teaching methoeds. Now, they teach beginner so well.
I felt This is it! I thought. I thought, "This is what we need in climbing community!"
so this is an tempt of application...
---------------------------- tennis version----------
Chapter 1: Characteristics and History of Tennis
(1) Characteristics of Tennis
1. Characteristics as a competition
2. Characteristics as a Lifelong Sport
3. Characteristics as a Commercial Sport
4. Characteristics of Facilities and Equipment
(2) History and Current Situation
Chapter II Tennis and Instructors
(1) Current Status of Instructors
(2) Necessity of coaching and issues in coaching
3) Knowledge and ability required for instructors
1. Knowledge necessary for instructors
2) Competencies required for instructors
Chapter 3 Science of Tennis
1 ) Biomechanics of tennis
2 ) Exercise physiology
3 ) Nutrition
Chapter 4 Techniques of Tennis
1) Technique and skill characteristics
2) Technical structure and its mechanism
1. Technique structure
2) Technique Structure
3) Grip
4）Body Control and Ball Control
5）Basic Techniques
6) Applied Techniques
Chapter 5 Tennis Instruction
(1) Basic issues in teaching
1. Individual characteristics and tennis teaching methods
2. motivation
3. teaching plan and contents according to the object of teaching
(2) Methods and contents of technical instruction
1. Basic concept of technical instruction
2. Targets for each skill level and step-by-step teaching methods
3. Instruction by suggestion
4. Sending technique
5. Points to keep in mind when teaching technique
6. Correction of technique
(3) Game instruction (beginners)
1. Introduction from simple games to games
2. singles
3. doubles
(4) Practical examples of tennis instruction
1. How to teach a lesson
2. Junior
3. Master
4. Senior players
Chapter 6 Training Methods
(1) Warm-up and Cool-down
(2) Physical fitness training methods
(3) Technical training methods
4) Mental training methods
Chapter 7 Health and Safety Measures in Tennis Instruction
(1) Safety measures in tennis instruction
1. Medical check
2. Health management of tennis players
3. Safety measures for injury prevention and instruction
2) First aid on the tennis court
1. First Aid
2. General trauma (RICE)
3. Bleeding wounds
4. Typical injuries and their first aid
3) Common sports injuries of tennis players and their prevention
4) Conditioning necessary for tennis players
5) Taping necessary for tennis players
Chapter 8 Tennis Instruction and Management
1) Knowledge and management of facilities and equipment
2) Planning, operation and management of tennis schools
3) Planning, operation and management of tennis councils
4) Operation and management of tennis clubs
1. Clubs as community sports
2. Clubs as school sports clubs
3. Clubs as commercial sports
Chapter IX Rules of Tennis and Refereeing Methods
(1) Explanation of the Rules
1. What are the rules of tennis?
2. Explanation of the Rules of Tennis
(2) Manners of Tennis
1. Manners as a player
2. Manners as a spectator
(3) Refereeing
1. Basics of Refereeing Techniques
2. Transition of refereeing methods
3. Difference of officiating methods according to the method of game
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Climbing version
The points in red are the points that I think are missing from the "explicit" language, especially in climbing.
Explicit is important today, and today's young people are ordinary citizens, not the selected elite...usually famous university students... like in the past.
-----------climbing version---------------
Chapter 1: Characteristics and History of Climbing
(1) Characteristics of Climbing
1. characteristics as a competition → sport climbing and free climbing are two different types of climbing.
2. characteristics as a lifelong sport → competition climbing and climbing as a lifelong sport are different types of climbing. There is no need to be aggressive like in competitions or grade supremacy, in public climbing for lifelong sport, which is usually done on the cragging.
3. commercial sport characteristics → Commercial gyms, bouldering gyms and lead gyms generally have a supervisor who controls the grading and safety (mats, bolts, etc.) of the routes. Outside climbing, like cragging, do not have supervisors.
4. characteristics of facilities and equipment
On the artificial walls, the bolt distances are calculated backwards so that the impact force in the event of a fall will be 0.3. Therefore, the risk of crashing is minimized and almost nonexistent. You can not expect the same in outdoor climbing.
At the outdoor rock, the bolts have been in place for more than 40 years without supervision. The distance of the bolts may also not be placed in a way that allows for a fall. (runouts). The strength and quality of the bolts themselves are also very different today than in the past, but this is not reflected in the actual rock climbing community. Usually new people are left ignorant.
This is a worldwide problem and is the reason why old crags are not popular. As a result, it is a major factor in Japan that results in certain people holding a privileged position of exclusive access to crags, a fact that may go unnoticed due to opportunism.
The result is a battle of vested interests between commercially based climbers who want to promote civilian climbing and the old regime.
(2) History and Current Status
Chapter 2 Climbing and Leaders
(1) Current state of instructors → The aging of the population has resulted in a total lack of instructional fitness. There is no official institution in Japan to train climbing instructors, and the content of climbing instructor education is left to the efforts of individuals who are making the effort, and remains primitive, customary, rather than being vetted by a third party and meeting standards.
2) Need for Instruction and Instructional Challenges → Today, climbing has been embraced by the general public and the climbing population is growing fast, but the market needs are not being met due to a lack of instructors.
As a result, people are going to outside rock with the very immature assumption that just because they can climb in an indoor gym 5.11, they can go straight to outside rock and climb 5.11 there, and cause serious accidents (e.g., lumbar spine injury).
(3) Knowledge and abilities required for instructors
1) Knowledge required for instructors → The knowledge required for instructors is the technique of securing safety with ropes and the moves that are meant for climbing itself, but there is no place to convey the former technique, which is required for general climbing (cragging), and what content is not being conveyed is not discussed at all. Also, there is no place to teach the former technique in Japan, which is required for general climbing (cragging), and there are omissions, even if there are well-meaning instructors.
Particular things failed to teach are
Top rope is not always the safest way to climb, connecting two ropes, how to learn cams, passing the knot through the ATC (passing the knot), how to use double and single ropes, how to choose ropes in the multipitch, rope selection based on personal physique, the difference between belaying on artificial walls and belaying on outdoor rock, how to secure a climber by running behind, etc. Running back belay, etc.
2.
2. abilities necessary for a leader → In the past, the abilities necessary for a leader were established by the fact that individuals who were deemed to have leadership potential received leadership training at mountaineering clubs, etc., and were vague, like an oral teaching, while today, climbing gym staff (who are hired at a minimum hourly wage) are expected to play the role. In contrast, today, climbing gym staff (who are hired at a minimum hourly wage) are expected to play the role, and the responsibilities and compensation do not meet well at all.
The assumption that climbing gym owners generally come from a climbing background has became things in the past.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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