ラベル Local Climbers の投稿を表示しています。 すべての投稿を表示
ラベル Local Climbers の投稿を表示しています。 すべての投稿を表示

2024/08/27

It’s not my childhood trauma, it is "Climber wound"!

How can you HEAL the MOTHER/FATHER wound?

I admit that I am AC. AC is a short for Adult Children and that means I had to take a full responsibility when I was a just a kid, I am the oldest of 3 and my mom was single. 

So I started to take a responsibility of home maker since I was 8. So this habit of taking your full responsibility was so beneficial when I was leading to climb. 

I knew how to knot clove hitch before I climb multipitch. Also I knew how to climb a rope before I can lead climb my first 5.9. 

But NON of my climbing partners had a skill equals to my skills... some even does not bring his own rope. 

Lack of gear is out of question. Lack of skills is also out of question. 

As a result, I got injured. Because of my partner's lack of skills of his belay and lack of responsibility!!

Some guys come to me are worse. They say I was so close to death when he put me so close to death. 

The last partner of mine has climbed 2 pitches at 50 m single rope, and the two pitch was 25 m, and 35 m.  No wonder why we had to hang in one bolt. 

so my entire effort of getting out of my childhood behavior which did not make me happy, taking too much responsibility as a child was misused by those who are very irresponsible and uncompetitive.

I must be very careful of choosing my people.  

 



2020/03/27

A Historical Note: Isao Shinkai

■ ロクスノ024号

Japanese climbing magazine ROCK&SNOW 024(2004, Oct) had a list of K2 sumitter in the history. 

I found a local climber's name, Isao Shingai, on the magazine as the 2nd ascent climber, on Southeast ridge with oxygen. 
   
ロクスノ024には、K2の歴代登攀者のリストが出ていますが、鬼が鼻の岩場で発見したプレートにあるクライマーの新貝勲さんのお名前が、クリス・ボニントンの前に出ていました。

    南東稜から酸素を使って登頂 23年ぶりの第二登

とのこと。 1977年6-8月です。第一登は、1954年のイタリアアルディート・デジオ隊になっています。

これはクリス・ボニントンだけでなく、メスナーとか、ダグ・スコットとか、小西政継とか、飛田和夫とか、クルティカ、山野井泰史とか、そういうメジャーな?名前の前です。

なんか~新貝さん、損している?よく分かりませんが、鬼ヶ鼻岩クライミングの際には、K2に上った日本人のことに思いを馳せてみたいものですね。この岩場で特訓したのかもしれませんし。



1958年
ロクスノ024 p107
Looking down the city of Fukuoka from where his plate is placed 

https://allnevery.blogspot.com/2018/05/blog-post_21.html