A climbing bum friend visited me!
A climber friend has visited me so I was on overnight climbing trips last week. We've gone to Hyugami crag, the biggest crag in Kyusyu, also the Mt.Hachimen crag, the smaller but nice crag with nice long routes in the northern Kyusyu island... it was a fun time!
The Mt.Hachimen has a very easy access from Fukuoka, the biggest city in Kyusyu, also, the bolt situation is much better than Hyugami crag so I will write beta here for the English speaking visitor's convenience...
On Mt.Hachimen
Mt.Hachimen is a hiker's mountain and also religious mountain. One of my English speaking friend whom I took to the temple on the foot of this mountain was so impressed by religious tradition here. There are Jingo ji temple and Yayama Shrine in this mountain and the mountain it self is considered god itself.
The Access
You can use JR train from JR Hakata station, the cost is 2800 yen one way. Get off at Nakatsu city station at Oita prefecture. Oita prefecture has so many other destination such as Beppu and Yufuin, those are the very famous tourist spot.
At Nakatsu station, you can get on a bus to goto Mt.Hachimen or take a cab. It is about 15 min car ride. There are buses only 3 times a day, so check the time schedule here first or use a cab.
https://www.navitime.co.jp/diagram/bus/00254674/00050263/0/
The bus takes you to Peace memorial park(where US aircraft had fallen while WWII) in the Mt.Hachimen... get off the last stop or if you are staying over night there it will take you to your accommodation... there are two choices, Hachimen sansou, and Kogane onsen sansou.
The location of the mt.Hachimen is here.
Accommodation
There is no tent site. Two choices. You can stay at;
Hachimen Sanso
https://comhits2014.wixsite.com/hachimensanso
https://nakatsuyaba.com/?introduce=hachimenzansou
or
Kogane Onsen Sanso
https://koganesansou.com/
Kogane Onsen Sanso is a high class Ryokan(Japanese style inn) so you can experience Japanese style retreat, and the Hachimen sanso is more economical, often kid's soccer team stays for a long term for training.
From the both place you can walk to the crag but if you have a car, the crag is only short distance of walk from the road, max.15min.
This is a dinner at Kogane Sanso.
The accommodation fee for the Hachimen Sanso is 1520 yen per person, or per room 5090 yen/up to 6 people to 10180 yen/up to20 people, so ask for the tourist office to give you assistance in Japanese. There is a tourist desk in JR Nakatsu station, or call here 0979-23-4511, or write here(https://nakatsuyaba.com/?page_id=928)
The latest leaflet says, the dinner is 1060 yen, and breakfast is 690 yen. Public bath is only 320 yen(10:00 to 16:00).
Approach to the crag
Mt. Hachimen has 3 lead climbing area, and some boulders.
The climbing guide book for this crag is the famous "Nihon Hyaku Iwaba(Japan 100 crags) " and the details can be seen at the climbing-net. You need to make your own account to view the topo guide in this net.
https://www.climbing-net.com/iwaba_detail/%E5%85%AB%E9%9D%A2%E5%B1%B1/
Upper area
The entrance to the Jyoubu area(Upper area) is the mark "L" in this photo.
Within 5 min or so, you will see the off-trail, climbers foot trace, in your right side. If you go to No1 look out, you are gone too far... Be careful when walking down to the cliff, it has 3 roped sections since it is very steep. Non-hiker might get injured...
Middle area
The Chubu area(Middle area) entrance is the mark "S" and you will see climbers foot trace on your left. If you are visiting crag often, you will not miss... if you are not used to climber's trail, you might end up just staying on hikers trail, which goes around the pound, which is also a nice walk. You have to go down the cliff, but the entrance is pretty obvious. The middle area is nicer and bigger than the upper area.
Lower area
Skip the Kabu area(lower area) since the bolts and anchor situation is bad. It is not considered safe.
My day for example;
I have gone to the Chubu Area at first and had climbed Nanatsuno ko 5.10a.
Then went to the Jobu Area, I did Cappuchino 5.9 and Koino takinobori also, a long 5.9(easier).
The harder City line 5.10c is also recommended.
The popular routes has better bolts and anchors but other than that, some bolts are still cut anchors, so do you observation at first and climb safely!
Sample photo:
The other You tube video
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=%E5%85%AB%E9%9D%A2%E5%B1%B1&pbjreload=102
