2024/10/17

Japan’s TRAD crags

Ogawayama granite trad climbing 

I think Japan's "Free" climbing history started when someone visited Yosemite and had shocked how different we were climbing, so basically, in the beginning we looked for Japanese version of Yosemite climbing. 

So that is Ogawayama and then, Ogawayama became full of people and bolts... and bolts get older people shifted toward different crags. 

So it is not very easy for a today's gym climbers... you have a certain climbs to follow... trad?  Ogawayama Layback, Casablanca, Jack and Beans, Kasama Pinky, Crazy jam.  

There are a lot of slab climbing too. Famous is Gama Slab. Slab is always runs out so unless you are very sure, I won't recommend if you are just visiting. 5.13 gym climber falls on 5.7 slab or 5.7 crack because in the gym, you can not learn to climb slab nor crack.

See here also. 

https://allnevery.blogspot.com/2024/10/for-someone-who-wants-to-climb-ogawayama.html

Yukawa crag

40 min from Ogwayama, protection difficult but more 5.9 under. This crag was a long my home crag.

Saku

Saku welcomes climber but you have to pay for a climber 1000 yen.

The shape of the crag is very unique and protection setting need somewhat getting use to. 

Syosenkyo 

This is the other side of the mountain of Ogawayama and south side so you can climb in winter time but it is not open to the public. 

There are some very famous routes like Day dream.

Jyogasaki Kaigan

Jyogasaki is accessible by train from Tokyo and very popular winter crag but it is not open and welcomes climbers like in Ogawaya... so climbers are very careful not to bother the local people... with trash and large noise. 

I wonder where is the screaming in the crag started from?  That does not sound like Japanese. 

Anyway, Jyogasaki is warm in the winter time and too hot in the other seasons. It's Seacliff and protection setting is difficult so it is not beginners crag.

Mikura in Okayama

Mikura is also very famous trad crag in Okayama. Past Osaka to south of Japan. 

Mikura's grading is very hard. so better to climb something easy to make sure you know how it feels like before you push your grade. 

          hip crack 5.9

Oudou Kaigan 

It's in far end of Shikoku but climbers travel to climb there in the winter time, looking for a long hand jam crack, where you can climb up high without much effort. 

             This is February

Endwall 

New trad crag in Kyusyu. I'd like to go if I have a partner. 4 hour drive from Fukuoka international air port and it's in the south end of Japan. This crag is also granite.

Granite climbing 

more or less, Japanese trad climbing is granite climbing... exceptions are Jyogasaki and Yukawa.