The rest day in green climbers home

So, I talked about how to spend a climbing day in Green Climbers Home.

What would you do in a rest day?

■ Wifi is important!!!

The corner french cafe and the massage parlor

On a rest day, people often go to Inthira Hotel.  Since there is free wifi.

In the GCH, the radio for the mobile phone is only available in the nerd corner and camp2.

This is where to book Inthira Thakhek

So climbers want to send an email to the family and friends back home... some climbers are traveling around the world, like a world tour, so they had to contact to the family back home time to time when they can.

The wifi is very handy since you don't really need any SIM card if you have a wifi network.

SIM card is available in GCH and in the downtown.

In GCH, you pay a bit more but that is so insignificant, when SIM card itself is so cheap. You have to buy some data card to pay for the data download too.

Even with the SIM card, I can not send my emails as quickly as I do in Japan, and blog updates was soooooo slow so I prefered to do my email exchange all at once in the free wifi places.

In this entire trip, I was very comfortable to get a wifi, in any place. Narita airport had wifi, Dong Muang had wifi too. Even the River Hotel had wifi.

(Japan is so backwards considering the use of wifi. I know Starbucks let us use wifi.)

So on your rest day, No1 priority is A FREE WIFI!!

■　Free wifi in Thakhek

Free wifi is available at

 Inthira Hotel
 A corner French Lao Cafe
 The other Cafe on the other side of the street

We spend like 3 hours or so while having a lunch or have some tea time...

Everyone becomes so quiet since all of us are tapping our mobile tools and sending out our messages to the lines, to the facebook, to the blog, or just an emails... SNS is so widespread and we all use it.

■　Before & After

Before and After of those time, we visited

 Market

live crab

 Bank
 ATM
 Massage
 Mekong River

Everything is on the main street so the map is quit easy!

■　Market

I think I had more strong impression if I were a first time in Asian country... but I was already in Vietnam and Thai land on my business trip so the market was somewhat familiar to me... I get more excited when I visited a Victorian Market in Melbourne.

In the market, you can get anything you need, so it is worth visiting. There is a lot of fresh fruits and meat and fishes still alive, colorful eggs like blue and pink...  deep fried sweets, and things you need in life, soap, toothpastes, shoes...things like that.

I wanted to buy a Lao's traditional skirts woven by women but I could not find the one that seemed authentic... it looked like all machine made.

I think the fashion is so different from what we need in our home country, so I had nothing to buy, and that was same to Lea, a young girl from Austria, a developed country.

I brought Vietnamese traditional cloth once, when I traveled to Vietnam on business, but never wore the cloth again... it was sown for me but if I wear that in Japan, that will be so strange.

Anyway, the market is pretty interesting place to see.

By the market, there is a bank and you can exchange the money there.

I had bought some fruits in the market. Lea bought a toothpaste.  It is not that we don't have money to buy, it is more like there is nothing we wanted to buy.

■　Cooling drinks

Along the main street, we'd walk up to the Mekong River and we are soon so thirsty! It is so humid and hot under the sun and we tried to walk under the shade but that so scarce when the Sun is so high.

You don't want to walk in the mid day!

this is what I got snack for climbing

We found the drink booth so we got some smoothing drink like Maccha Latte or Water melon cooler..

■　Money

By the booth, we found ATM and Tony tried to get some money out and it took him a while to figure out how to use the machine.

It seems a large amount of money but Lao Kip has too many digits, so we all get confused.

In the downtown, you can use Thai bahts and Laos Kip, and USD.

The most important thing is

DO NOT HAVE TOO MUCH LAO KIP

since you can not exchange Lao kip to Thai bahts once you are out of the country.

■　Massage

The last activities is massage. There is a massage parlor in close by the Inthlar hotel and it is the same owner as the one in GCH.  You would pay extra but that is not as big as you pay to TukTuk to go to the town.

I do not like Thai Massage since it hurts... my leg had black finger print from the massage which was too strong.

I did not enjoy massage so much but I enjoyed foot massage.

The massage usually takes about 1 hour or so.

■ Transportation

So it is about the time to go back. You can pick up TukTuk around the Inthlar hotel anytime.

But if you have people to share the ride, that will be nicer since you can split the cost.

The one ride to downtown to GCH is about 100,000 Kip (400 THB, about 1000yen, 10USD) so what is most expensive is the ride.

Go back before it gets too dark, since the ride is 1.5 times more when dark.

When you get back GCH, it will be already almost a dinner time.

Crag in Saku (too bad no ice)

no Ice yet

■　Suddenly...

We have gone to ice climbing for the first time in the season but the ice fall was not ready yet so we headed to the crag nearby.

To my surprise, I was suddenly climbing better! 

Climbing is so unpredictable and when you get better you get better so suddenly, without being aware.

This is a little gift I was given... being better at climbing.

The climbing in Green Climbers Home was tremendous fun for me but the emotion was built on the most welcoming friendly community they've got there.

I was welcomed there and that was the feeling I needed most... Here in Japan, you are no climber unless you are so good at it like climbing over 5.12 or something... people do not accept other climbers unless you are so good at.

So the ones like me who started out climbing at the age that is kind of too old to start...like over 40, and the one having a hard time climbing 5.9... are sort of looked down... and that is sad.

You won't get better in such a environment that you are constantly put down...

So what made me a better climber was a community there, and it was very international and friendly.

■　Openness

I am a very open person. I can talk to people without making a wall.

I feel most comfortable  when I am in an adventurous feeling to find out who I am talking to and what kind of person he/she is, finding out what is their passion and dreams.

My dream is creating something like GCH in Japan where climbers come from all over the world to climb Japanese craggs.

I think the dream is dream, it is ok to dream... I really think Japanese craggs are the hardest of all the world and if there is such place like a GCH, the place should be in Ogawayama.

There is Kimpusansou already there to accomodate hikers but those are expensive and not at all international nor ecological.

Internationalism and Ecology is very much what I liked there in GCH.

Takidani

ranacosta.net The Real Climbing 001 Takidani 2013 from ranacosta.net on Vimeo.

This is Takidani. A rock Alpine climbing in Japanese North Alps.

If you are a climber in Tokyo, here's where to go!

■　Information

OK. There is not much information on Rock Climbing in Japan.

I only have one year experience on free climbing but considering that, I have rather many experience than most others.

So here is the explanation.  Note this is only for people live in Kanto, near Tokyo metropolitan area.

■　TOPO

The most important TOPO book is "Nihon 100 Iwaba"(Japanese 100 crag 日本百岩場). 



■　Destination

1) The biggest destination is Ogawayama（小川山）. Over 700 routes in one place with accommodation(camping). May to until snow.
　
2) The second biggest destination is Mizugaki　（瑞牆） but all trad not bolted. Recently, a great topo book was published so many people started to go there.　(only sold in climbing gym. Not in amazon)

3) Other Japanese crag are rather small or only for a particular season.

  In winter,
     Yugawara maku Iwa　湯河原幕岩  --- many beginners
     Jyogasaki  城ケ崎　--- by the ocean
     Jyoyama  城山　--- chemical

 In Spring and Fall.
    Okutama 奥多摩 --- they have a small crags in many separate area
       Syonin iwa  聖人岩　-- limestone
       Ten now iwa 天王岩　--- bolt
       Koizawa Buttless 越沢バットレス--- alpine multi pitch
   
 for Crack climbing
    Yukawa 湯川　-- near Ogawayama
    Jyogasaki　城ケ崎
    Shosenkyo 昇仙峡　-- hidden

 Some hidden crag near Kofu
    Kabuto Iwa  兜岩　--- there were a fire a few years ago and banned but everyone goes
    Shosenkyo  昇仙峡　--- Forgotten, but Yoshida san was developing. Granite.

For alpine training
  Hiwada  日和田　--- many beginners every weekend
  Koutakuji  広沢寺　---- same
  Adera 阿寺　--- new area
  Saiko   西湖　--- this is close by my place
  Mt.Mitsutoge 三つ峠　--- the classic. Great view of Mt. Fuji

So if you are a climber living in Tokyo for instance, this is what you would do;

■　Model course in a year

In May,  the high season for climbing starts.  Let's go to Ogawayama before rainy season starts. The crag in Okutama is also close by and comfortable, so maybe you go to Koizawa buttless for an easy crag and to check your ropework. This is good rehearsal especially when you have a big plan to do alpine multi pitch at Japanese Alps in summer. Many alpine climbers goes to check.

Keep going to Ogawayama every weekend till rainy season starts. In rainy season, everyone plans a crag but since rain, you have to have a plan B and that is often, "Base Camp"（ベースキャンプ） in Iruma city, the climbing gym that Yuji Hirayama runs.

After rainy season, you would still go to Ogawayama in July to September. This year it rained nearly every weekends and people who put up a huge tent in Ogawayama, staying for 2 weeks was not comfortable at all...  but this is what they do normally. 2 weeks Summer camp. The cost is not that too high if you stay in your own tent and sleeping bag. (see here for the cost.)

Also, high mountains like Japanese alps are climbed in mid summer. Also since it rains so much in summer here, Sawanobori, i.e. shower climbing is a good option since you get wet anyway. There are many destination in Japan but you must have a different equipment and different training.

  See my shower climbing page here.
  See my Ogawayama camp in this season report here.

If you are trad climber, Mizugaki is better option than Ogawayama since less crowded.

In Fall, when Ogawayama and Mizugaki is too cold to climb, people starts to go warmer place like Yugawara maku iwa and Jyogasaki.  Yugawara is well bolted and has many easy route. But no accommodation facilities, you can not even camp there so many sleep in a car.

So if you crag in Japan, having a car you can sleep in it, is important. Mine is all flat when back seat is put down and there are enough space for 2.

You'll go to other crag like Okutama, which is nearby, when you don't have enough time and money to travel long.

I live in Kofu, the first rural city toward Ogawayama direction from Tokyo, one and a half hour train ride away from there, so I am closer to many crag than most people and I go crag to Kofu crag. I don't go to Okutama, since it does not make sense to me go closer to Tokyo, when there are some crags to go closer to my place.

From the second week in December, usually, ice season starts. Ice climbing is an expensive activities and you need different equipments, so people who does not climb ice, they go for Jyogasaki and Yugawara Maku Iwa in winter.

You can do both if you like. I am going to climb ice in the weekdays, and in weekends I'll go to Jyogasaki this winter.

Free climbers and Alpine Climbers are different species.. many free climbers do not climb mountains so they are not at all interested in the mountains... then just omit Japanese alps, and ice, and shower climbing.

Among people who climb mountains, meaning they go climb Japanese alps, but most of them avoid technical routes since they don't have enough skills to climb anything over 5.9. In Japanese technical routes, it depends on a route though, it is said you have to have 5.11 to be on a safe side, if you are a first climber. If you are second, you have to be able to climb 5.9 without hesitating.  5.9 seem easy job, but not in Japan and especially with a heavy pack on your back.

The Shower climbers and the rock climbers do not mix, neither. Shower climbing requires a different equipments and rock climber usually feel scared to climb wet rock in the river. But I found shower climbing to be fun. and a lot easier to climb.  But I must mention, there is no radio reaching to the valley, so it is the most risky kind of climbing once there is an accident, it is not a an easy job to call a help.

So I am a one of rare dying species of all round climber, I do rock, ice, shower, free.

■　Photos

Heres so Photos I had taken in the each crag to give you an idea.

January in Shosenkyo wide crack 5.9 

Shosenkyo jam jam 84 multi pitch crack

Feb.Ice in Minamisawa kotaki in Yatsugatake classV

March Ice Route in Yatsugatake Class III

• Aprl. Yukawa Crack Degenner 5.8

May in Ogawayama 5.10d

June Alpine route class III

June in Kofu Makuiwa 5.10a 

July in Ogawayama

Ogawayama Rayback 5.9 in September

Mizugaki in Oct.　5.10c wide crack

Koutakuji Class IV

Yugawara Maku Iwa In November　

Base Camp climing gym in Iruma city

mars 5.14a in Jyogasaki

Syonin Iwa in Okutama limestone

■ Useful site

Climbing Net  this is the site everyone uses.

■　Accomodation and transportation

The crags are in rural sites that means you really must have a car.

And accommodation in the rural area is also nearly zero, except for camper's site.

So the most climber has a tent or they simply go back home to sleep.

The bast base place will be like Kofu city, or Hokuto city, if you have a car.

■　Partner Finding

You must have a partner. Japanese are shy people they don't get close to each other so easily.

Partner finding could be one obstacle if you are alone to come here to climb in Japan.

One thing is calling a local climbing gym but not likely. The other thing is calling local Alpine club, but also not likely.

This may be why young people go for bouldering not rope climbing.

Also you will amaze to see so many over 60's are climbing.

Contact me if you like to have one near Kofu. I may be able to help or find someone for you.








 
   

Alpine Anchors

Ice Season has come!

■　Back to Normal Life

The last night was my first Yoga teaching class since I got back from Laos.

I felt so good to be there in the studio where the people await me for my class..  Thank you everyone for coming to my class!

When I teach yoga, I feel it is them teaching me what to do.

My class is getting bigger since there is a few maternity leave teachers and the studio struggling to find teachers. We hope to find one but for a while I must hold the class a bit too many.

Usually if I do normal class, the number of the class I teach does not matter, but in hot yoga...I can not teach no more than 3 times a week... since it is winter it may be OK to teach 4 times.

Anyway, I am very very grateful of that I get to do...

■　Ice Season is in

This weekend I am going to do ice climbing for the first time in the season. 

I love ice. I had ice climbed before rock climbed...  I have 3 years of ice experience on the contrary to only 1 year of free climbing experience.

This is my other blog for ice climbing.    http://iceclmb.blogspot.jp/

I think it was wise of me to start climbing with ice since, in ice climbing all the holds are handle, of course since you are holding your ax... so for a person like me with no finger power can still enjoy.

And also the move is rather simple.

I think I will read climb Minamisawa Otaki, 30m fall this season.... I think most climbers likes ice because the rock in Japan is rather short so if you like to climb long, they go for ice.

For me, 30 m climbing seemed long but not anymore.  I get used to long one in Laos.

Now this is what I got while I was in Laos! Peztle's laser speed light. I have BD's screws already but for long route I had added some. This is not at all enough number but I count my partner's too. Now I have total 6 screws and he has 20, that will do.

■　The shade

I bought a bamboo shade that they use in GCH. 

Today I fixed it in my bedroom. How is that?

a shade from Laos

I should have gotten the doormat they use there too.

Well, the next time I go, I will buy one.


■　Big Winter Plan

And I have a big winter climbing coming up in Christmas holiday, so I should start carrying my backpack putting on some weight and start to get used to heavy boots.

There were a sad news that a young college student has died of avalanche and he was a student of Tokoudai.  My climbing mate is a young man in Tokoudai and I had ice climbed with other young guys in Tokoudai, last year in the ice candy festival.

Looking at the name, I felt relieved that it was not the name I know.

I should be paying attention on the weather with a great care... since it snowed in November here and it was the first time in 54 years, they say.

The weather is getting harder and harder to predict.  Experience does not mean anything when the weather itself is going so crazy.

In this winter holiday, I have a plan to peak hunt "Chou gatake mountain", which is the first time Northern Japanese Alps to me. I picked up this one because its location is not too deep, it is easy to get back.

Plus, my radio communication licence has arrived and I have now the call sign!

I have gone to the foot of the mountain the last year at the same season, to see what is like and get the idea how hard it might be.

I am pretty sure I can make it but since when you concentrate on climbing, your feet get weaker and mine has gotten weaker, I guess.

Time for training again!

Beginners Roof in Green Climbers Home

I wanted to take away the sound behind but I don't know how.

so this is something to give you an idea of what lime stone climbing is like.

Anyway, a climber is my friend there, and he is as strong as he could do 8A if he really tries hard,so he is kind of demonstrating how to do the beginner's roof to us, beginners.

I did this one with Yvonne later on.... both of us  freaked out! But was fun!

I did two roofs,

 Caveman 5.c with Tony
 Beginners roof with Yvonne

I am sooo glad I did this one!

ラオス 装備表 レビュー

■何でも売ってる

ラオスでは何もないのかと思ったら、そうではなく、市場に行けば何でも手に入るので、日本から持って行くのは最低限の物で良い。

日本の国内旅行とほぼ同じ装備でOKです。

というわけで、海外初心者向き。

■お金について

予算は多めに見積もって１０万円（飛行機代込み）。現地滞在費用は１０日で２３５ドルを目安に。

これは、宿泊・食事つき。

タイバーツとラオスキップ、ドルが流通しており、GCHでのチェックアウトではドルでの支払いが喜ばれる。ターケークの街中では、タイバーツとラオスキップが流通しており、主流はラオスキップ。

GCHのクライマーの場合、食事で使うホテルと言えば、インスラー限定になると思うが、インスラーでは、タイバーツとドルの表示があった。

ラオスキップで気を付けることは、多く引き出しすぎないこと。

ラオスキップを使い切るのは結構大変で、あまり買い物天国とは言えないため、必要なのは、

・往復のトゥクトゥク代

・帰りのバス代　２万キップ

が最低限であり、街中のホテル等では、タイバーツやドルで支払うことができる。おつりはキップになるかもしれない。

チップについて。日本で習慣がない人が多いと思うが、チップは端数を切り捨てで、渡そう。チップ制が陳腐だと言うのは、日本人の誤解だ。

インスラーホテルでは、私の携帯が使えなかったとき、無料で電話を代行してくれた。その前に利用していたとき、チップを払っていた。ただおつりはいらないよ、と言っただけ。

同行者はこのチップ代をけちって払っていないようだったが、先進国から来ている場合、ケチ、と嫌がられるだろう・・・　どこの国でもスクルージは嫌われるものだ。

特にラオスの国柄を考えた場合・・・シェアする精神というのは重要と思われる。

■　夏です

大体どんな気温なのか？というのが、行く前の不安だったのだが・・・

女性なら、一着ドレス（ワンピース）があると着替えが楽だと思われる。沢の時のような感じだ。なにしろ、ドーミトリーでは、男女混合なので。

私はイチイチバスルームまで行って、着替えたが、普通、西洋人の女性はそのようなことをしない。

どうするかというと、適当に互いが気を使いあって、着替えていそうなら、そっぽを向く。同性でも同
じだと思うが・・・。

日本の男性は、これが苦手と思われ、多分、そっぽを向くどころか、注視してしまいそうな勢いであるのが文化の差だ。

以前、私が実家で着替えていたら、ふすまの隙間から覗かれていたことがあり、驚いた。そういうのを役得と考えるのは、日本が病的な印のような気がする。

のは、ともかく、着替えは、適当に済ませる感じだ。

■　コーヒー豆

今回、誤算だったのはコーヒー豆。ヨーロッパの人が運営しているから、と油断した。

ラオコーヒーは、全くカフェインレスだと思われる。普通のコーヒーを頼むとインスタントが出てくる。

ので、ただのお湯をもらって、自分でコーヒーを入れないと、日本のコンビニ並みのコーヒーにもありつけない。

ドリップパックのコーヒー豆を持って行こう。あれなら捨てるのもカンタンだし。

この不満は、ヨーロッパ人も同じらしく、一時、話題で盛り上がった。インスラーでは、カプチーノが飲めるという情報が貴重な情報となる。

カフェインと言う意味では、世の中で流通している紅茶の中で最も安いものだが、リプトンティーがある。

どちらも、60.000キップなので、カフェインと言う意味では紅茶を。

ホントに、タイでちゃんとしたコーヒーを飲んだときは、ほっとしたのだが、出国ゲートに入ったら、スタバがあって、ガッカリ。

スタバにすればよかったと思ったのだった・・・。

タイには、マクドも、バーガーキングもあり、チェーン店ってありがたいなぁという感じだが、基本的にラオスには、先進国ならどこにでもあるチェーン店はないようで、それが良さだ。

■　ヘアドライヤー

なくて困ったのは、ドライヤー。髪が乾かない。シャワーもちょろちょろしかでないので、髪は短いほうが便利だが、長い髪を切って行くほどのことはないので、たまに良いホテルに泊まって、体を清める日にしたらいいかも？

今回は、日本人のエリコさんの家に泊めてもらったときに、髪が洗えてすっきりした☆

■　洗濯

ラオスでのお洗濯・・・ランドリーサービスに出しても、１ｋｇ１００円程度なので、出すと良いと思うが、下着ははばかられるので、手洗い。　

下着を堂々と、干しているのは、日本人くらいではないかと思う。

洗濯物干し用のロープは、持って行ったので、張ったら、そうそうに皆に占領される。洗濯ばさみも１００均で買ったもので十分だが、すぐ他の人に使われてしまうので、必要最低限は自分用にキープしておくこと。まぁ私は２０個くらいあったので、１０個くらい紛失しても別に～と言う感じだった。

洗濯物は、あまり乾きが良くない。たぶん脱水が手絞りだから、だろう。なので、速乾性の衣類のほうが良い。

日本の手ぬぐいのような薄手のコットンは、非常に使い勝手が良いので、ふかふかタオルよりも、手拭いが適している。

あと夜や雨後など、意外に冷える日もあるので、長袖とダウンは持っていて損はない。途中の往復でも、冷房の効きすぎがあることがある。

■　虫除け

虫除けは日本から持って行かなくて良い。現地で購入する定番あり。きんかんなど、虫刺され薬は必要。

最強グッズは、蚊取り線香ケース。

ただ私は１００円均一の地面に突き刺すタイプの蚊取り線香を持って行ったので、ケースはなくても、いい感じだった。

こちらで売っているのは、コイル状にまかれたタイプなので、地面に上手に立てる苦労をするより、蚊取り線香ケースがあると便利で、皆に羨ましがられる。

■個人装備

ハーネス　ボロボロになるので、古いもの
ヘルメット　
１２０ｃｍスリング　環付ビナ　×２
６０ｃｍ　スリング　×２

ロープ　７０ｍ　→　現地でレンタル　軽量シングル６０にして、長いルートの時だけ現地
確保器　
ビレイグローブ
カラビナ　×２
チョーク
フラットソール　×２
笛

ズボン　ひざ下　×２
ヘッドライト
トーチ

テーピング　大小
ハンドクリーム
サプリメント

クイックドロー　×１０

残置用捨て縄　×２
残置用カラビナ　×１

■　その他

ザック
サブザック　　　　　　　現地お買い物用バッグ

雨具
折り畳み傘
トポ
水筒　　　　　　現地で１．５リットルペットボトル購入のこと
テルモス
ピクニックシート
サングラス
ティッシュ
日焼け止め
運動靴
サンダル
室内履き
時計
メモ帳
ビニール袋
コップ

石鹸
歯磨き
歯ブラシ

防寒着
着替え　靴下４、下着５、短パン１、タイツ１、Tシャツ３　長袖　　多すぎこんなにいらない
帽子
水着
うちわ

シャワーセット

クレジットカード
パスポート、コピー
旅行保険、
国際免許
おつまみ
お酒

計算機
アイマスク、耳栓
虫除けスプレー　　GCHで購入がベター
蚊取り線香ケース　

カメラ

医薬品
南京錠
洗濯ロープ

爪切り
やすり
正露丸
耳かき

以上。

Thanks to the people I met!

Gema just sent me this one!

------------------------------------------------

We don't meet people by accident.

They are meant to cross our pass for a reason

... by Unknown

------------------------------------------------

This is so true.

So I talked about the nice community they've got in GCH, Green Climbers Home, in previous page now I should mention the people I met. 

Niho san

First of all, I should mention Niho san who brought me there! Big Thanks to him!!

To be honest, I knew a little about Niho san(san is like "Mr."in Japanese.) when in Japan. Each of us flew by ourselves, no flight booking together except I booked GCH for him upon his request.

The first time we climbed was in Ogawayama on 28th, July, with our mutual friend. That was about it. 

Then, without much of thinking, I said "Yes" to Niho san's invitation of "Why don't we go Laos?". 

After I said yes to the Lao trip, we went for a day climb twice, one in Syonin Iwa and the other in a Climbing Gym. That's about it. 

The reason why I went to Laos so casually was that I was curious about GCH.  Plus I am a kind of a person who fly overseas in one week notice, from my previous work. So going Laos was not that big deal to me.

Without him suggesting me the place, I'd never know the limestone climbing can be this much fun!! 

Chen and Thibault walking back to GCH

Tanja

Second, I like to thank Tanja, one of the founders of GCH. 

I checked GCH home page and learned it German owned and I knew I always get along well with German people... I have a working experience with people from various nationalities..., so now I know my instinct was right. 

I always felt Yamanashi where I live for the moment, should be a climbing capital of Japan...since Yamanashi has 5 Piolet d'Or winners, they all moves in, and that must mean something. 

I go climbing gym and come across an alpine climber Yusuke Sato so casually. I've borrowed his harness once without knowing it's him. Locals pays no attention to how good cragging environment are in Yamanashi, but it is. 

I have a very high respect to anybody developed the routes on the crag.. and I also respect female entrepreneur. 

The few of the crag I go, are not open to the public, since I was with developers. One in Syosenkyo, is the place of my memory... I was a belayer for Kazumasa Yoshida, a climber who climbed a first 5.14a crack in Japan... I felt so honored to belay him. He passed away so soon after we met and my heart was broken, since I kind of expected to meet him again. His project was undone. I was so glad a strong young climber said he would take over the project. 

Anyway, all I wanted to tell is that I know creating a route is a hard job to do. and I respect Tanja and the gang for that reason. 

Tony and Lea

Tony had lived in Sapporo, Japan for 6 years and he is such a considerate person and he could feel the emotion of the other people...very unlike American (Pardon my french!).

He arranged our climbing together so nicely; we went to Canyon, with Keji and Kanna from Japan, and Niho san and me.

Tony in Caveman 5c+

He gave me some great photos of me climbing in the Canyon, and I am glad I took his photo in the caveman! It seemed so wild and interesting.

Lea was a to-be yoga teacher and I have been teaching yoga for 6 years now and we share kind of same interest. The way she is was a lot like Japanese, quiet and kept, but she climbs!! I was so amazed to see her climb "Pig hole "over hang, and the word she has used to describe the route!  A strong girl she is!

We all went to the Thahake together and night of the Lao barbecue was so fun!


Gema, Matis, Sati, Laura, Thibault, Yvonne, Chen, Patrick and Wolfgang

To all of you thank you!! You guys are great climbers and fun to be with!

Keiji and Kanna from kansai

I wonder if they are safely riding on elephant... their Kansai intonation made me really relaxed!


Eriko and 4 years old Kaori and The nurse Akko

Eriko and I had a feeling so instantly. We've met for a reason, and I like to keep in touch. I kind of know why we met.

Akko san, please don't give up. 2 years is long and I did too had a hard time living abroad with no language skill at first, but what you are doing is so precious.


Thank you again for your kindness and I had a great time!

The climbing mates; I love you guys!

今回の旅のまとめメモ

■　さっとまとめておきます～

忘れる前にさっとまとめておく

Day１　１１/１５（火）　移動日

成田へ、朝３時５０分初のバスで。成田第二ターミナル。７時に到着。両替を済ませる。全部で１０万円のうち８万円をUSドルに、２万円をタイバーツに。タイバーツは３万円にすればよかった。スクートは格安で有名らしいがサービスは普通だった。お得感あり。

出発ゲートでカメラを落とす。残念。帰国で、税関に問い合わせて見つかるが、まだ手元に帰ってきていない。

この日はナコンパノムまでだが、成田タイ（ドンムアン）はあっという間。乗り継ぎの国内線を予約を一日間違えていたが、問題なく現地カウンターで変更。差額を現金で支払う。

ナコンパノム行きの飛行機で隣になったタイ人の女性が親切で美しい人で、なんと子供をもつシングルマザーだが夫と別居中。さびしげな感じの漂う人だった。

空港に付くと大半の店は終っている時間で、アライバルゲートのすぐのレンタカーのおばちゃんが、タクシーを呼んでくれ、たったの１００バーツでホテルに連れて行ってくれると言うのだが、乗り合いバスだった。

ホテルは、TheRiverで、超立派だった。東京に出張に行くときに使う、ビジネスホテルより立派で、たったの９９０バーツ（３０００円くらい）。初日だし、多少の贅沢は。すけすけシャワールームで、韓国のトランジットで、一泊の宿泊に、どう見てもラブホだよね～ってホテルを航空会社にあてがわれたことを思い出す。日本式にカードキー。お茶もシャンプーも石鹸もあったので、もらっていく。

向いにメコン川が見え、対岸はターケーク。朝はバイキングで、世界共通仕様。

Day２　１１/１６(水）　移動日　＆岩初日

The　Riverホテルを７時半に出る。　トゥクトゥクを呼ぼうかと言われるが、バスターミナルまで２ｋｍだというので、歩くことに。

ところが、途中で暑くてギブアップ。ナコンパノムの朝７時半はもう暑かった。別のホテルの前で客待ちしているトゥクトゥクのお父さんが、知り合いみたいな顔をしていた。乗って行けと言うので、バスターミナルというと、６０バーツで乗せてくれた。しかも結構なスピード。

かなり裏道使う・・・と理由が判明。バスの出発が８時だった。のでギリギリセーフでバスに乗る。

バス代は７５ドルとかなりお高い。不思議だ。帰りは２万Kipだった。

友好橋はちっとも友好的でなく、移民局の人たちはフレンドリーではない。入国審査官は女性だと思ったが、ちょびひげを生やしていた。まじまじと見てしまった。

ラオスのバスターミナルには、２時間もかからないでついてしまう。と、すぐにトゥクトゥクが寄ってくるので、グリーンクライマーズホームのちらしを指さすと、Okだというので、乗っていく。４００タイバーツ。相場は１００万Kipだがあまり小さな額にこだわるほうでないので、ぼられた～という気にはならない。

あっという間にグリーンクライマーズに到着。途中の道路も単純で、曲がったのは一回だけ。道は易しい。舗装はされているが、埃っぽく、山並みは、妙義のよう。

到着したのは１０：３０前。新保ガイドが待っていてくれた。チェックインのスタッフがおらず、運営は結構いい加減のよう。ドイツ人のウォルフガングが色々説明してくれた。そのわきで、新保ガイドが説明を追加する。

まぁHPもチェック済みなので、あまり問題がない。この日も、日本の国内移動よりスムーズな移動でストレスなし。

お腹が空いたので、チョコパンケーキを食べる。

部屋で、荷物を整理して、午後はクライミングをする。この日は午後に４本。

Hilton
Vegan Scnitzle 5a 　OS
Pinzgauer Bua 6a TR
Schoffle tower 6a TR
Sissi 5b + OS

Day３　１１/１７　(木）

朝からジョギング。この日はレスト日にして、ターケークへ。また町に戻るのかぁと思うが、Simカードをゲットしたいので仕方ない。

が、Simは、GCHでも販売されていた。　トゥクトゥクに乗り、銀行で１００ドルをKIPに両替。トイレを借りる。

銀行の裏が、マーケットで、おいしいハスの実を買う。

その後歩いて、インスラ―ホテルへ向かう。このホテルはみなの第二のリビングである。Wifi無料で、ランチがてら、Wifiで連絡を。

ただラオスのSimをいれたスマホはなぜか放電されてしまっていて、電池不足だったので、連絡はWifiでアイフォン。

その後、足のマッサージに行く。５００円くらい。うとうとする。以前から足裏マッサージは好み。でも、タイマッサージは好きではない。普通に帰宅。

夕飯はポーク。

Sim 40000KIP　
ランチ　144000KIP
Tukutuku　100,000Kip
Water　50,000Kip

５千円分くらい消費

Day４　１１/１８　(金）

朝ごはんはフレンチトーストとココア。
実質クライミング初日。ツリーラウンジへ向かう。エミを交える。その後、ホワイトウォールへ。エイトノットのまま、ロープを引いてしまったオーストリア人のカップルと仲良くなる。

８０ｍロープを借りる。自分の５０ｍを持ってきたらよかったと思う。

Day５　１１/１９（土）

クライミング二日目。なんだったっけ。なんとかメリーだっけ？昼暑くて、GCHでランチ。午後に近所で１本。くたくた。チャンに出会う。仲良くなる。

夜は居室でデイビッドと知り合う。

Party Maile
Happy Hour OS
Pegal　OS
３　Underff　TR　new route

Climbers home
The Nest 6b+ TR

Day６　１１/２０　（日）

クラミング３日目。涼しい日。ツリーラウンジのあと、遠いエリアに行こうとするが、靴が悪く、引き返す。チェンとエレファントで６A、６ｂを登る。６Aはオンサイト。エリコと出会う。意気投合して、メール交換。

８０ｍ　ロープを借りる。

Day７　１１/２１　（月曜）
レスト日。　トニー、リアとターケークへ。市場を案内し、リアとマッサージに行く。私はまた足だけ。
リアと別れて、トニーとGCHへ戻る。楽しい仲間。カプチーノでカフェイン注入。
ランチタイムに、リアとエリコと同僚の方に会う。シェードを買う。

Day８　１１/２２　（火）

トニーがキャニオンに連れて行ってくれる。日本の関西からのクライマーケージとカンナと新保ガイドの５人。

６Aは落とせそうだったが、ビレイが重くて怖くなり、辞めておく。TRでは楽勝。うーん。
キャニオンではすごい写真が取れた。蓮の葉の傘をさしているところ。リマが写真を撮ってくれる。

まぁ５ｃはオンサイトしたから、いっか。イヴォンと知り合う。


Day９　１１/２３　（水）
どこへ行ったんだっけ？　あ、マルチか。途中で敗退し、午後は、cavemanへ。楽しい課題。

エムジェイと知り合う。リマがGCHを立つ。寂しい～　リマのことは、ここのスタッフ化と思っていた。

この日は、がんがん雨が降ってくる。昨日だったら、ちょうど蓮の葉の傘があって、良かったのに（笑）。雨で少々気温が下がる。

Day１０　１１/２４　（木）
朝はちょっと登り、午後はレストデイ。レストで、ためしにアロママッサージをしてもらったら、強すぎてあざに。やっぱり好きになれないタイマッサージ。アロマもラベンダーの香りがタイガーバームでかき消されてしまっていた・・・。

エリコさんのところにお泊りし、テコンドーをやり、焼肉パーティをする。お腹いっぱい。アイスクリームを食べる。かおりちゃん、可愛い。ちょっとヨガを教える。朝ごはんが美味しいフルーツ一杯。うれしい！

エリコさんの家は非常に広くて、二人だと寂しいと言うのが良く分かる。床はタイル張りで、沖縄の家を思い出した。

ターケークではATMを一度利用してみたが、なんとも嫌々そうにカードを返してくる様子が面白かった。手数料が２０、０００KIPで結構高いので、あんまり使いたくないATM。

あと、チーズケーキを食べた。フランス統治領だっただけに、パンやケーキはフランス式なのか、とても美味しい。

ラオスではフランス語が必要。

午前中ってどこへ行ったんだっけな。エレファントに行って、来たばかりのパトリックにビレイしてもらったんだっけ？

Day１１　１１/２５　（金）

最終日。　午前中にGCHに戻り、リア、トミーと３人で、フルメタルジャケットに取り付く。昼からは、バーベキューパーティへ。みな水着でびっくり。パトリックと打ち解ける。彼は唯一のアルパインクライマーだった。

再度フルメタルジャケットリード６A。暗くなるまで遊んだ日。リード貫徹できてうれしい。

ターケークの帰りに虹を見る。トニーと親の話や結婚観の話をする。先進国の若者の気持ちはどこでも同じだ。

ドームでありんこ事件勃発。アリのズボンにありんこがたかっていた。すごい行列。

Day１２　１１/２６（土）

朝７時出発。皆が見送ってくれた♪　友達一杯で来たなぁ。前の晩、風が強くて、眠れず。　

ノックエアで爆睡。ノックエアで、折りたたみ傘をゲット。行きで買えばよかったなぁ。

ナコンパノムでエアポートまでのトゥクトゥクが一人２００タイバーツは、少々高い、

ドンムアンまではすぐだったが、ドンムアンでの待ち時間、１２時間。暇つぶしに困る。やっぱりミニノートを持って行けば良かった。書くと時間がたつのが早いので。

なんとかやり過ごし、飛行機に乗る。タイバーツはうまいこと使い切れた。がラオスKIPは、約２０００円ほど余ってしまった。

Cost Comperison: 2 weeks in Ogawayama vs 10days in GCH

Last night, on arrival from a long way back from Laos and Thai land, I was too tired to cook a dinner so we had ordered "Demae" (a catering) and had some sushi.

Look at the plates, this is only 1980 yen for two! Good deal! Japan is no more most expensive country to travel.

I spend 235 dollars at Green Climbers Home for 10 days.

That is, including bed, breakfast, sometimes lunch (I mostly brought some snacks with me since my partner wanted to keep climbing while lunch time), a morning coffee everyday, Rassi drink sometimes, and a beer and a dinner, a few water refill, 2 times of a rope rent, and 2 T-Shirts for a souvenir) .

235 dollars divided into one day is, 23.5 dollars that is 2670 yen, that is pretty cheap for a travel, but I know I don't spend that much if I am staying at home... because I spend only for food.

I wonder if a traveller can stay in Japan with that much... Hummm...pretty difficult. You can find a place to sleep about 2000 yen (a capsule hotel or a guest house, an average tent fee is only 500 to 1000 yen here) and you can live on the food cost of 670 yen a day, it is tight but you can, only that you have to cook for yourself and definitely no beer!

So I am pretty amazed how cheap they were for what I have gotten, but considering the average wage in Lao is about equivalent of 5000 yen per month,  the cost seems rather normal.

Because what I had paid will exceed what they earn in a month, in two days, of course I know it is not a profit, the cost is included but still there must be a enough profit they can make out of it.

Anyway, a Lao earns 1 eighths of a Thai, they say. An annual income for a Thai is 4,449 USD in statistics.

I know the number can deceive you and from what I have seen, 100,000 kip is equivalent of 1,000 yen, or 10 dollars in USD, and 400 TBH.

■　Japan

Now what I wanted to tell you is not that, cragging cost. From my place, to get to Ogawayama, where it is called Japanese yosemite, the biggest sport climbing crag in Japan, the cost would be;

car share 800 yen.  it is 70 km away from my home takes about 2 hours to get there,
70km drive is 1L of gas cost here like 120 yen at most, so if your car drives 10km per litter, it becomes 70 X 120 = 840 yen one way.

parking 300 yen

tent in your own tent 700 yen

so overnight cost of Ogawayama crag is

 840 X 2
1000 X 1
-------
= 1840 yen

plus food usually about 1000 yen to 2000 yen.   So in the end, it is about 3000 yen to 4000 yen.

Some people stay more than 1 week there and the cost will be cheaper there. And if you get other people to share the cost, it goes to the cheaper side.

I suppose the best number of people is about 4. Not more than that.

If you spend one week there, the cost will be like

840 yen X 2 (round trip)
700 yen X 7 days X 4 people = 19,600 yen
food 20,000 yen for one week for 4
----------------------
divided by 4 people

=10,320 yen

That is pretty close to what I had paid in GCH.  (2660 yen/d X 7day  = 18200 yen)

So it is not too bad to crag in Japan, if you have a local friend.

■　Information

Mawarime Taira Camping Field HP is here.

http://w2.avis.ne.jp/~mawarime/charge.htm

Ogawa yama has over 700 problems(routes) and granite stone... well bolted. But a way more difficult than what I had experienced in Thakhek.

This is me climbing a 5.10a problem "Black & white" in Ogawayama, very slabby problem on top rope.



 

The days in Green Climbers Home in Laos

■　To Laos! To Green Climbers Home!

It was only a little bit of accident that I decided to go to Green Climbers home. I did not know much about Laos nor my climbing partner but that was a small stuff, I am curious about GCH. That was all.

I was curious about GCH and GCH was the exactly the place I imagined.

First, it was "all you can climb", the second, it was very international, the third, they had a lot of nature and were very ecological.

The only thing beyond my imagination was, there were cows and goats even in the belay area!

It was sooooooo peaceful, actually too peaceful so I felt like taking a nap, rather than climbing a rock.

Those cows and goats are never afraid of people nor they change their peaceful attitude so I suppose the human and animals are living together in peace with no problem at all... which reminded me of the land of Eden.

If there is a heaven on the earth, this is it!

Of course for any climber, all you can climb, all day, every day, is a heaven: ( "all day, every day" is the title of this blog I put because the climbing partner I have now wants to climb all day, and everyday!)

cows eating the grass

morning glow

■ Let's imitate a dirtbag, or a climbing bum!　

So now we are in heaven!

my bed

GCH is a great place to be if you are a climber, but let me suggest you to come here alone or with a few of your friends, maybe not more than 2, or 3 people.

Have no plan, and let your fate take you where it wants to be!

Now, you are a sort of climbing bum or you can be a dirtbag!
 (of course you are well taken cared here in GCH, well sheltered, and well fed, with clean bed and clean toilet.)

Let me say, a climbing bum will never be a pack animal.

He loves "freedom and adventures" and that will not mean security of being with herd and avoiding standing alone.

Plus I guess the facility does not assume a large group of people because the bungalow they have have only one semi-double bed which kind of assume that two people staying in one bed, even though they can have an extra bed.

They put a pair of people into a different dorm house too. (which I liked the way it is because I kind of appreciated being alone and have some privacy.)

They had some tents for one person or for two people.  No larger tent.

Finding a climbing partner is super easy. You just go to a crag you like and then say hello, climbers are usually nice people and know you need a belayer to climb so they would be happy to offer you their belay.

Or you can look for your partner at dinner time in the KneeBar.

Of course you should be able to manage to meet people but that's a sort of basic social skill and unless you are too shy to speak to, they are all good people and the community itself understands we all need match making, so unless you deny by yourself, someone will be happy to help you.

Just say, "Hello, where are you from?"

The language barrier here is so thin! Language wise, this was the easiest place I had been.  I struggle much more usually.

■　Day starts

At 6 o'clock in a morning, I am half awake... I know everyone's the same...sometimes I hear a smartphone making a morning call...it's same sound as mine.

I was the only female staying that room so I woke up a bit earlier than everyone so men have a easy time to change clothes...

There will be Lao people to come for a cleanup of the bathroom and the velanda.

I usually did my Yoga around that time.

Hoe Noodle

At 7, the breakfast is served. Omelette with homemade bread, pancake with fresh fruits with honey, noodle like Hoe, or some rice soup like porridge.

After the good breakfast, we go to craggs, which takes only a short walk, usually... (it depends on where you go.)

Let's see which one we are going to climb today...

The topo book is super easy to understand.  A problem name is written on the rock unlike in Japan, so you never get lost and a mistake like you are climbing a 7c thinking it's a 5c problem never happens. This could happen in Japan (and often),.. but not here.

It is fun to find a problem too, it is the same thing as all climbers do... so don't worry, there will be a person there all the time, giving you the kind of advice you'd need to find the route you are looking for.

name in the routes

Plus by looking for, you'll make friends.

The grades are written in French grade so it is different from Japan, we use American grade.

On the arrival day, I bought the topo book, and marked all the 5 something and found out that I can spend my entire 10 days easily by climbing what I can already easily lead climb.

Now, climbing. Let's do a warm up problem.

I did not know the limestone was this much fun!

In Japan, limestone sucks. Because hold are overused and it is slippery and scary. I could not lead 5.7, here.

In GCH, it is super fun to climb any 5a to 5c to me, and it is fun to try 6a, and one difficult move to 6b, an entire struggle anything over that.

I usually climb from 5.10a lead to 5.11a toprope here in Japan(6a to7a).

This was a sort of average grade in GCH.

I lead climbed the vegan schnitzel 5a (5.6 to 5.7 in decimal) on the first day I arrived. By next to me, someone said it is his first ever lead climbed in his entire life so this must be a good start for anyone.

I had a partner who has 40 years of climbing experience so he wanted to climb more harder routes, that was OK since I can always toprope the same problem.

And there, it is nicer to have someone toprope after lead climbing since, the wall is over hanged and kind of hard to clean up by descent as we do in Japan. The second climber is as important as the lead climber. (I kind of started to think a very low respect to a second climber might be cultural to Japan.)

There were some people who climb for the first time in their lifetime there, so you should not be shy to climb at all. Nor look down on toprope climbing as in Japan.

During the midday, the temperature is too hot and you don't want to get a sun tan and too exhausted from the heat so many people go back to the GCH and have a good lunch. Then move to a different area in the afternoon, where there is a shade in the afternoon.

I climbed average 3-4 in the morning, in the afternoon, 2-3 so that makes 5-7 climb a day.

how do we climb this one? 

And every 2 or 3 days of climbing I took a rest day, so while I was staying there for 10 days, I had 3 rest days.

After climbing in the afternoon, I will end my day a bit earlier than other people, let's say I am already up sometime between 15 pm to16 pm,  and finished a shower taking before it's get too crowded (but a ladies shower room never gets too crowded.)

And I go to the nerd bench to check my emails and see how my husband is doing, write some messages in FB and other stuff.

At 18 pm, it is already a dinner time. Not everyone seems to want a big dinner like we do in Japan, but most people order today's special, which comes in meat or vegetarian, usually tofu.
   

GCH main dining area

I usually eat vegetarian meal in Japan but I wanted something I can not have in Japan and want a dish to be authentic Lao so I mostly selected meat.



I have to mention Lao beer.

Everyone drinks Lao beer, and once I ordered red wine but I was told I was the first person who drank red wine here. So go for beer. Cheers!

Everyone here is super friendly and not everyone is native speakers of English usually, so there is no need to be shy and withdrawn.

I found it is super easy to get relax and speak to people, no perfect English is assumed so you don't need to be afraid of being not perfect.

Everyone is here for having fun so they would be nice to you since being nice is their own merits too.

The nights of GCH are early, around 9 pm they all go back to dorm and get ready for the sleep.. By 9 and a half, the place is pretty quiet.

I was in bed around 8:30 pm in the beginning since I was tired from the travel and unusual things to me. As I get use to the place I sometimes went bed late since I wanted to socialize more.

The climbers! I love you guys! I liked all the people I met there! It was a such nice community they've get.

A day ends like this with a happy feeling... I  was so content. My stomach is full, beer 's good, good exercise, good routes, fun people to be with.

Birds are singing, cows are mowing, goats are merry, the sun is shining, the moon is soft, stars are shining.. the weather is not harsh...

Everything is so peaceful.

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Thanks Note to the gang